Essex Bus Boys Stories

Main Diary – Rob Carter
Additional entries by Ron Sverdloff and Albert Pidgeon

Sunday 22 January 1967

Ron’s diary

• 9.00pm  Left Southend for Dover.  Arrived 3.00am (23^rd) with £30.10s.0d.  Angela and Lynne came with us to bid goodbye.  PS Left Chris’ house gone 12 midnight.

Monday 23 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)      

England – France  Left  UK  11.00 hrs  Wet and cold   Raining

• Woke at 8.00 hrs in Dover.  Once up I made for Dover High St with Derek to buy firstly water purification tablets and Beecham’s Powders in large quantities for this trip.  Even at Dover the trip didn’t seem at all started it just seemed like an outing or a quick trip to France.  We immediately made for the embarkation area.  Ron had managed to ship the bus over for £12.10.0.  It took a lot of haggling.  The price Townsend Ferries wanted was £27.2.0 for the bus.    They were trying to charge commercial rates.  The rate we got was motorised caravan rate.  After waiting half an hour the boat sailed at 11.00 hrs half an hour late.  A Townsend official said he had expected us today as Southern ITV had said on the news we were embarking on Monday from Dover for a world trip.  So we were on our way.  The white cliffs of Dover behind us and the continents in front of us.  The only problem leaving England was the currency restrictions so to get over the problem we hid £250 in a polythene bag which we placed in a fire extinguisher.  The polythene bag broke and the money got wet so we had to dry it in the ovens.  The crossing was rough.  We reached Calais where they required insurance for the bus before we could drive through France.  Once on the open road we made for Paris with an escort.  The roads were desolate no towns or villages just fields and straight roads. (Skip did an oil change by the road side in the afternoon.)    Our escort was a heavy lorry driver who drove twice a week to Paris from London.  He was a pleasant fellow about the same age as ourselves.  If he was not driving to Paris it was Milan or Amsterdam.  We invited him in for lunch and then motored on to Paris.  It was getting late so we stopped outside Paris.  Travelling in the bus is making me travel sick.  I was glad we stopped.    Ian the lorry driver slept in the spare bunk.  So one day was over with days ahead offering who knows what.  So to bed.  Retired at 24.00 hrs.  Still raining and miserable.

Ron’s diary

• 8am booked bus on Townsends Ferry and embarked at 10.30.    Arrived Calais 12.00 noon after rough crossing.  We met a lorry driver on the ferry called Ian who stayed close behind us until Paris and slept in the spare bunk.  He managed to fiddle a spare 5 galls drum of diesel at his fuel agency at Poix.  Left Calais 1pm and drove the first few kms and stopped to change the oil and filters.  Skipper drove to Poix where we stopped for our first meal between 8-11pm.  The menu was roast beef, sprouts, potatoes and coffee.  I am suffering with a bad cold at the present.  I don’t think any of us really feel that we have really started.  Now we are pressing on towards Paris for our night stop.  Arrived 2.40am (24^th).

Albert’s diary

• (RJC entry)    Drove over night down to Dover 3.00am.  Parked in Kent Bus Station.  Rose bleary eyed and bought water purification tablets and first aid equipment.  Raining, yearning for the sun.  Said our goodbyes.  Perhaps the worst thing.  Trouble over the allowance.  Group money given to Derek and Skip to take out.  Customs very hot.  Managed to get the bus over for £12? Townsend prices £23?  “You won’t get away on the way back”.  Didn’t board till the last minute.  Let us go …

• (AWP entry)    Left Dover on 10.30am sailing (Townsend “Free Enterprise 1”)  Arrived France Calais 12 noon.  Tidy out the bus.  Left for Paris about 4 pm.  Followed a driver who we met on the ferry.  Arrived Paris 12 noon 24^th January 1967.

Tuesday 24 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• Woke at 10.00 hrs.  Most of the lads were up.  All eager to press on.  Once breakfast was over we got ready to move on to Paris.  Ian thanked us for the meals and bed and we were grateful for the diesel.  He had given us yesterday five gallons. So we said goodbye.  He wished us good luck. Paris was now just a few kms away.  As we entered the outskirts of Paris we became the centre of attraction.  Everybody was looking, pointing and staring.  Paris is murder to drive in with a car let alone a double decker bus.  As always happens in Paris we managed to get lost but to our help came a Frenchman riding a moped.  He became our guide to the Arc de Triumph.  We parked off road once there and thanked our guide.  I immediately made for some shops and with great difficulty managed to purchase this diary or as the French say ‘Agenda’.  If I had known the French called a diary an ‘Agenda’ it would have saved a lot of time.  Drove the bus around the Arch and took photographs.  Ken seems to be getting used to the cine camera.  Once the photography was over we made for the British Embassy where Harold Wilson PM was having talks with President de Gaulle over entry into the Common Market.  We wondered what was going on behind those walls.  From Paris we made for Lyon on the A6 passed Fontainebleau, Macon, on the N6.  Passed the time playing cards and chess. The weather is still cold and wet.  Should be warmer as we go south.  Went to bed at 23.30 hrs.  Having difficulty in sleeping while the bus is going along.  With the bunks as they are we roll a lot it would have been better to have had the bunks across the bus instead of long ways.

Ron’s diary

• I got out of bed at 8.40am and had breakfast.  Drove into Paris stopping at the Arc de Triomphe.  We cleaned the bus and had a snack of minestrone soup.  We then tried to find the place where Harold Wilson was holding talks.  WE PARTED COMPANY WITH Ian just as we approached Paris.  Left Paris at 6.00pm and set out for Lyon, driving in relays of 5 ½ hrs.  (Skipper and Albert).  Stopped to have stewed steak, potatoes and peas for dinner at about 11pm. 

Albert’s diary

• Went sightseeing.  Left Paris 4 pm. Lyons Grenoble.

Wednesday 25 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• Woke 2.30 am.  Felt so sick travelling in this bus is going to take some time to get used to.  Took one Avomine and went back to kip fully clothed just a precaution.  At the time we were 8 km from Lyon N6.  Slept sound till light.  Remember going through a town could be Macon.  Went back to sleep saying those Avomine were good.  Ron driving.  Woke again.  To my surprise when I looked out the whole scene was covered in snow.  We were winding our way from Grenoble on the 75.  Should reach Nice tonight.  Warm weather.  Stop for the bus was overheating.  Then we stopped for fuel.  The pump attendant said there was a low bridge 5 km up the road.  We approached the bridge with complete optimism.  We rounded a bend and there it was one obstacle it was impassable 3.7m high and our bus was 4m high.  So about turn and go back the way we came to Grenoble.  We had reached Col de la Croix Haute when we hit the obstacle.  This detour was going to cost us one day in time.  So back on the 75 route and then across to Mens on a virtually unmade road winding up into the mountains.  The scenery was fantastic.  Drove the bus down the mountain roads towards the road 85 between La Mare and Corps over a concrete span bridge.  Below was a dam incorporating a hydro-electric plant.  The road was still not very good and the day was dragging on to late afternoon.  For hours we followed a large river until it forked to the mountains further to north.  The river was most probably the Drac.  Should be near gap in one hour’s time.  Still snow around.  Finally reached the 85 route by dark.  It gets dark at 18.00 hrs here as the French do not use the system of one hour on in the winter.  We are now motoring towards Gap on the route 85 towards Nice.  Motoring at the most an average of 25 mph.  This low speed takes a lot to get used to.  36 mph the top speed of the bus which is governed down seems like 50 mph.  Reached Gap.  Passed through Sisteron, Digne to a good night’s rest and the Med in the morning.

Ron’s diary

• I awoke at about 8.30am to find we were approaching Grenoble in the French Alps.  We travelled on the N 75 from Grenoble for about 45 miles to find a low bridge (3.70m) unpassable.  We turned round and went back to Mens on a small mountain road to join the N85 near Gap.  We stopped to take photos on a bridge over a very deep dam in the French Alps.  We stopped a few miles south of Gap at about 8.00pm to have potatoes, spam and omelette for dinner.  We left at 9.15pm for Nice and stopped at 3am (26^th) just before Nice.

Albert’s diary

• Owing to low bridge we had to go by a different route which cost us eight hours.

Thursday 26 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• Woke at 10.30 am.  The scenery was absolutely breathtaking.  The sun is now hot.  Blue sky. No clouds.  The villas on the road to Nice are expensive in appearance and architecture.  Oranges were still on the trees and palm trees were making a regular appearance by the time we made our decent to the Med.  Ron was the first to sight the Med at 11.50 am.  By 10 mins we were by the water’s edge.  Had breakfast porridge and bread and jam.  After breakfast played darts and aired the bedding and clothes.  Cleaned bus out and then played my guitar.  It was so warm by then we went for a swim.  Ken the coward would not go in at first.  I didn’t blame him after I had taken the plunge it was so cold and deep.  The Med is not very tidal but very deep just a few feet from the shore. After relaxing with records run from the generator I then drove the bus for the first time from 10 km outside Nice through to Monte Carlo.  But we were diverted on a hill route, narrow roads and hairpins, what initiation.  Stopped because bus was overheating.  Took the opportunity to eat.  Set off again.  I was driving.  Reached French Italian border check custom 9.00 pm.  Passport stamp upon exit and entry then drove 15 km into Italy.  Albert took over.  Stop for fuel and water at Bordighera.  Albert still driving up till 23.45 hrs then stopped.  Chris had just beaten Ken at chess.  By 24.00 hrs we were having supper, soup and instant potato in pint beer mugs.

Ron’s diary

• We started for Nice again at 8.30am to arrive at the sea at 11.50am.  We stayed there for about 4 hours to air and clean the bus.  Derek was first to go in swimming followed by Albert, Rob, Chris and Ken.  The sun is shining bright.  After leaving Nice we drove on a mountain road around Monte Carlo which we had to take because of a road works detour.  The gradients were very steep and narrow with hairpin bends.  Everybody who saw us were amazed.  When dusk fell we had a fairy-tale view of the Mediterranean.  We arrived at the French-Italian border at 10pm.  We had to sort out a few queries.  We then drove for about an hour and then stopped for dinner.  Mixed vegetable, steak and kidney pie and potatoes. 

Albert’s diary

• Alps were by far the best sights so far.  Nice, arrived 11am.  Cleaned out the bus. Derek, Albert, Ken played darts.  Went swimming, all went.  Left Nice.  Robin drove the bus and owing to a road closed had to use an old narrow road which climbed winding up the side of mountain.  Stopped for a meal 6.30pm not far from the Italian border which we hope to reach tonight.  Have worked out our rota for driving 2 hr span. 

Friday 27 January 1967  

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• Finished entry for the 26^th and went to bed at 02.15 hrs.  Woke at 11.00 hrs.  The sun was out warm and bright.  We were on the move Chris driving.  You can notice the difference between France and Italy when it comes to buildings and roads.  Italy is so untidy and rough.  Made our way along the coastal road to Genova.   Route 1 through Albenga, Finale, Savona, Varazze to Pra was an auto route.  The cost to use the auto route for the bus was 600 lire a cheek considering we don’t pay in UK for use of the motorways.  Still our road tax pays for this.  Heaven forbid paying to use the motorways.  In fact Italian motorists pay 6000 lire approx. £3.10 in road tax per year. (Before we reached Camogli we scrumped some oranges from the upper deck.  They were not sweet just bitter.)  Stop in Genova for bread and fruit.  One loaf cost 600 lire.  The loaf should last about two meals.  The oranges cost about 150 lire for one kilo.  From Genova the road wound by the coast to Sestri all along the road the Italians just gawp and gaze in amazement.  From Sestri on a ‘B’ road up through the mountains via Castiglioni and Varese.  The road winds through small villages the church towering above the houses through groves and forests growing up the hill sides.  The Italian gardens cannot possibly be flat they run like large green steps up the hill side.  Stopped as we were over heating.  Ron driving.  Change drivers Ken.  Getting dark. Sun going down 18.00 hrs. Climbing all the time now 1053 m altitude. (1053 m = 3450 ft).  Snow sparse upon the mountain side.  Now dark.  Stopped overheating.  Now above the fog.  Looks just like a large lake with mountain tops peering through bathed in moonlight.  Full moon great.  As we descended we hit fog.  Changed drivers.  I am driving.  Drove for 30 mins. Had to stop fog too thick.  Retired 23.30 hrs.

Ron’s diary

• I got up at about 9.00am.  Chris had just started his 2 hr shift at the wheel.  We were driving along some wonderful coastal roads with the sun blazing.  We stopped to pick some oranges on a tree from the top deck of the bus.  After passing through Genoa we climbed some very steep hills and then stopped for breakfast of porridge and egg.  We then drove away from the coast of Italy.  The road wound up through the mountains until we reached 110000 ft (?).  I was driving the first shift through the mountains and just before it got dark the bus boiled and Ken took his shift.  The bus boiled again and we stopped for dinner.  Albert played cook this time and we had chips, corned beef and beans with pickled onions.  We are very high and above the clouds.  It is dark but the clouds look like a large lake between the mountains.  There is snow about but it isn’t all that cold.  Ken finished his shift and we stopped for the night.

Albert’s diary

• Passed Monte Carlo.  Could see Grace Kelly’s palace from the mountains on our way to the Italian border.  We picked fresh oranges from a tree from the top deck of the bus.  So pleased with ourselves until we tasted them.  They were sour.  We went to Venice for 4 hrs.  Some of the lads went for a gondola ride.  Acquired some diesel from a bus parked next to us.  Left Venice.  Apollo astronauts death.  Go to Yugo.  3am Sunday 29^th.  Italian customs did not ask for road tax.

Saturday 28 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• (I am still grating the gears.  Practice makes perfect.  So they say.)

• Woke up at six am.  Went back to sleep till eight.  Got up and continued my rota.  Cold and miserable.  The weather is not so grand, damp and wet, a lot of mud about on the road and by the kerbside.  Evidence of recent flooding.  Small landslides.  Just a sea of mud in this area between Palma Mantua.  Drive until Albert took over.  In the lowland the people are poor. They have very little just live from hand to mouth.  A few hens maybe one cow if lucky and perhaps a donkey.  They use donkeys a lot in Italy as well as Yugoslavia.  The small beasts are burdened to the hilt with bales of wool or wood or just one person taking a ride.  Reached Padua. Still evidence of bad flooding.  The land is just flat.  The Po Delta.  At 14.00 hrs we had about 21/2 hours driving to Venice.  This includes an auto route which costs I believe 300 lira.  Difficulty parking the bus.  Eventually found a suitable place in the dock area amongst some single decker buses.  Walk to the first bridge and on to a large series of lands which make Venezia up.  Interesting place.  Wooden bridge.  Small narrow streets which bend at right angles and are dimly lit.  Cold and damp as we made our way deep into the city.  Every bridge seemed the same.  Every street the like.  Soon we were lost hopelessly.  Until we hit a water front with the main land far over on the other side of a wide fast flowing river.  Small water bus could be seen ferrying persons over the dark stretch.  We took a ride over and back just for the experience.  Back in Venezia we proceeded back into the jungle of cobbled streets and aqua roads.  Took a trip in a gondola in our efforts to find an exit.  Nobody sat in the thing we all stood.   Most hazardous.  But everyone stood perfectly still.  Just as well water’s wet.  Back at the bus a meal was ready and shady events had happened.  We were now 5 gallons of diesel better off.  Yugo …??

Ron’s diary

• Robin started the driving rota at 8.15am and there was still mist about.  We were leaving the mountains to be faced with a long drive across Northern Italy to Venice.  We arrived there about 4.30pm and spent about 3 – 4 hours walking around the little lanes and over bridges.  We jumped a water bus without paying and had to avoid the conductor.  We went back to a meal of stewed steak, mashed potato and Italian pickles.  Before we left Derek, Albert and Robin syphoned some diesel out of a coach parked next to us.  We drove to Trieste to arrive at the Yugoslavian border at 1 am.  We had quite a laugh as we went through the Italian side and we avoided paying their tax and insurance.  I was at the wheel and I stopped for the night just past the border.

Sunday 29 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)     

• Still in Italy at the moment.  We are in Trieste just after twelve.  Still a great amount of traffic at this hour.  Cars and people.  Cars are stopping to look at the bus.  Cannot find a shop or bar that sells chocolate.  Hungry.  Posted some cards.  Ron drove to border.  The officials took a great interest in the bus and us.  Asking all sorts of questions.  One official asked nicely for one Rolling Stones disk.  Now moving to the Yugoslavia border post.  The difference between the two posts is very noticeable.  The Italians are very lax to the Yugoslavs who are very efficient and very helpful.  Like the Italians the Yugoslavs required a tax payable upon exit from their country.  We managed to evade paying the tax upon exit from Italy.  Good but I doubt if we will be able to do the same in Yugoslavia.  Changed our money.  The Yugoslav Dinah has been devalued by 1/100.  It makes it difficult to follow the money value.  Ron drove 5km inside Yugoslavia then we all retired.  Woke 10.30hrs Ken driving.  Cold and damp weather.  Slight fog.  The country is interesting.  Rock and small trees.  Overheated once.  Stopped twice by police.  They wanted to see if our winkers, if fitted, work.  He could not make us understand.  We didn’t help.  He gave up, waved his hands and off we went.  Took the coast road.  The Adriatic has a beautiful blue hue, so clear.  On the coast road we passed jutting from the water’s edge two poles 4ft apart rising from the edge at 45o or more.  Across the poles were placed rungs so forming a ladder to a platform at the top.  The poles the diameter of a telegraph are sunk into the ground and from the top of the platform the fishermen view through the clear water and advise his fellows where to cast their nets from their boats.  Motored along the coast road.  No towns or villages so desolate yet people walk from village to village which can be some 30 to 40 km apart.  Stopped for dinner at Jabanac.  After dinner stood by the harbour and watched the local fishermen fishing from boats.  No nets were used just a lamp on the bow run on gas to luminate the water, so clear even at night, and a long spear some 15ft in length to spear the fish.  From the harbour all you could see were lights piercing the dark.  From Jabanac motored some 40km then retired.

Ron’s diary

• Ken started the day with his shift and he boiled the engine.  The police stopped him twice in the same hour.  The weather was disappointingly cold and damp.  The scenes were all coming back to me from my previous trip with Dave.  We stopped to climb two poles which were about 60 ft (?) long and hanging over the water.  We stopped to have an enormous dinner of mince meat, potatoes and mixed vegetables and Yorkshire pudding.  We started the generator and played records.  Invited some local people in.  We then stopped just outside the town Jabanac for the night.  We invited some Yugoslavian lads in for a chat.  

Albert’s diary

• Made catapults.  Drove all day through Yugoslavian mountain roads.  Met some Yugo lads in a village when we stopped for a meal.  They told us they were not allowed out of Yugoslavia.  All that is written on these pages does not express the picture of peasants with donkeys or women with pick axes and above all the breath taking beauty of the landscape.

Monday 30 January 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke at 10.30 hrs. Bus on the move to Zadar on the coast road.  Skip driving.  Stopped once.  Sun shining.  Looked at building which seemed deserted and derelict.  T our surprise we found people living there, such is poverty.  Whilst making back to the bus a horse trap went past towards Zadar.  Motored to Zadar.  Reached Zadar 10.40hrs.  Parked on quay edge.  Shopped around Zadar for a suede jacket.  Back for breakfast, porridge and spaghetti on bread.  Whilst we were having breakfast we saw a crowd gather round a diver about to inspect the quay.  It was here we met Alexi, a Slav with an Aussie accent.  He explained he had lived in Aussie for eight years and was paying a visit home, which was about 8km from Zadar.  In fact he rode to town in the horse trap I had seen an hour before on the coast road.  With his brother and himself he showed us round Zadar.  The old area including a university and a tomb of a king.  The tomb was 1400 years old.  A pillar 20ft tall where Turks and Romans were hung.  The town had narrow roads and damaged churches. The Adriatic was as clear as ever and cold as I experienced.  I was thrown in dressed in a rubber zute suit. Was as dry as a bone except for a small leak behind my neck.  I didn’t swim, I could not, but I didn’t sink as I was like a balloon blown up.  Said goodbye to Alexis and his brother and set out for Sibenic.  In one hour we were in Sibenic.  The shops in Yugoslavia open at 9, close at 12, open at 4 and close at 8.  In the centre of Sibenic the square was crowded with people who walk from one end of the square to the other all evening, quite comical.  Shopped for a jacket.  About £8 for suede and £12 for antelope.  Before retiring went for a walk.  Town deserted.  Ron went fishing.  Caught no fish and lost his hok and line.

Ron’s diary

• I awoke just as Chris started the bus.  We went through some very rugged country as we made for Zadar. We arrived here and walked around until Ken cooked breakfast.  Skipper used a bag for a toilet and threw it off the quay side, it drifted towards a crowd of people watching a diver nearby.  The air is now warmer and brighter.  We went to Sibenic in the afternoon.  We walked round and I saw the old church that Dave and I were shown round 2 years ago.  It was built in 1431.  I had a haircut which cost us 4s with Albert.  We did a little fishing but caught nothing.  We bought a meal in Rieka Restaurant 6s very good indeed.

Albert’s diary

• Arrived Zadar 10 am after spending the night in the mountains.  Meals so far very good, no fried stuff except for one I cooked one evening.  Met English speaking Yugos, one named Alex.  He showed us round Zadar with his brother.  Place where a king was buried 1500 years ago (?)  A place where they hung Turkish prisoners.  Robin tried on a diver’s suit etc.  People very friendly.  Alex’s brother brought his girl to look over the bus.

Tuesday 31 January 1967 

Main diary (Rob’s)   

Day of the close haircut

• Woke at 09.30hrs.  Quick breakfast.  Went to the church in Sibenic built 1463.  Before we had reached the church an old (man) rather tall but with a stoop stopped us and offered to show us round.  He made the church very interesting.  I was impressed by firstly the council chamber, the equivalent to our town hall, which was decorated with gold, the ceiling completely covered.  Secondly the small carving around the outside of the church, each carving representing a head of an important person concerned with the administration of the church or town clergy (priest, mayor, pirates etc), each so expertly carved, the expressions almost real.  And finally, along with the Roman ruins, remaining the carved leaves, carved as if they are flowing in a strong wind.  These leaves in the crypt, if struck, would produce a note.  You could in fact play a tune on them.  From Sibenic we continued on the coast road for Dubrovnik.  Roads still winding parallel to the coast.  Arrived at about 2.00pm.  Parked the bus on the sea front.  Walked around the pleasant sea town and had a meal in a working class restaurant.  Yugoslav meals quite good.  This day I shall remember as one of the funniest days in my life and for the next six weeks.  The source of amusement to the rest of the group, six in all, and I suspect a considerable amount of outsiders.  Just before dusk, and a fair way from Dubrovnik, Albert and I had our hairs shaven to support a theory our thinning hair would grow thicker.  (Shall disprove or prove this theory six months hence.)  A real laugh.  Two shining heads.  I laughed at Albert only to see myself, at really just how odd I looked.  Bald head and a beard.  Reach Dubrovnik late that night.  Looked around the large walled city.  Very, very interesting.  One thing though, the rest of the group disowned Albert and myself, made us walk ahead of them.  One hundred yards ahead.  (I wonder why?)  Dubrovnik, by the way, housed in its stone walls some 7,000 people with shopping centres etc.  Many more people are outside its stone walls, guarded on one side by the Adriatic Sea (25,000 outside).

Ron’s diary

• Left Sibenic at 12.30 after walking around the market.  I bought a pair of sandals costing 10s after a great deal of bartering.  Just before dusk on the way to Dubrovnik Albert and Robin had their hair shaved off.  The ceremony took place on the side of the road.  Arrived in Dubrovnik at about 11 pm, a ‘fairytale castle’ town.  Chris chatted up a Yugoslavian girl.  We had dinner and left for the ferry at Kotor, arrived 5 am.  I was feeling quite rough when I went to bed.

Albert’s diary

• Left Zadar early evening and travelled down to Sibenic.  When we enquired we were told there was little else to do.  Went for a haircut.  After I tried a Yugo meal of spaghetti and chips and omelette.  I did not like it at all! After looking round Ron and I went fishing but broke my line and lost hook and weight etc.  So I went back to the bus.    

JANUARY 1967 NOTES (from Rob’s diary)

• Left UK 23^rd France 23^rd

• Italy 26^th

• Yugo 29^th

One obstacle low bridge at the French town of St Julien on route to Grenoble.         25 Jan reroute over the Dauphine Alps.

Wednesday 1 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Photos Albert and myself with beard.  I shaved my beard off to suit my bald head.  1^st Feb, have been on route for 9 days.  Spent the night in Kamenari waiting for the first ferry boat across to Lepetane.  This route would save time on route to Titigrad.  Save also taking the mountain route around the Tivatski Lake and Kotorski Lake via Morinjstrp, Risan, Perast and Kotor to Cetinue, Rijeka Crnojevica then to Titograd.  At 9.00hrs Skipper enquired about the price of the ferry and was told 2800 dinah, considering the price of the fuel if we took the mountain compared with the ferry route we decided to take the mountain route.  This route offered a fantastic view.  The road wound up the mountain side in 26 hairpins.  Finally the road levelled off on a plain of fertile land.  A lorry driver who had overtaken us offered to guide us to the top.  We didn’t really need his help but you cannot be rude so he went ahead and carefully helped us through a low bridge explaining in broken English and hand signs that this bridge of rock was very dangerous as it has been known to have rock falls.  We finally reached the open plain, a small village where we had a drink with our driver guide who after insisted sitting in the driver’s seat of the bus.  Said goodbye and thanked him.  Drove further up the mountain side viewing the village with a new interest another 1000 metres up.  At the summit we descend on a narrow winding road towards Cetinje.  On the descent we found the road blocked by a lorry.  Upon moving it we were confronted by the driver who just lost his temper. Apparently all drivers value their cars and lorries in Yugoslavia.  In his temper he kicked the bus back door.  We then lost our tempers.  It finally ended with a Yugoslav pulling a knife after we had spat at a car who nearly ran us down and was blaring his horn.  The incident ended when we confronted them (and) saw there were too many of them and drove away.  We lost a door handle (pulled off).  Changed drivers, I then drove.  Ken experienced lorries and buses on the descent it got annoying as we had to mainly reverse to clear the road for others.  Me driving, reached Titograd 18.00hrs.  Skirted the town and found the road to Kolasin.  This road went along the side of a rock face. There were 28 tunnels through the rock before we reached Kolasin where we decided to call it a day.  The snow is thick here, ice on the roads.  Local reports say it’s worse further in.  Retired 24.00hrs.

Ron’s diary

• Woke up in the morning feeling worse.  The weather made up for it a bit.  The ferry was too costly 17s0d so we drove around the lake.  When the road left Kotor it wound up the mountain a good few 1,000 ft (?) with 26 tight hairpin bends. After the bus boiled a lorry helped to show us our way avoiding rock falls but stopping at every village to show us off to everybody.  Later on we had a very near fight with a Yugoslavian because we tried to move his lorry parked in the middle of the road.  We hit Titograd just about 6 pm and stopped at Kolasin for the night after a very hectic day.  The ice and snow was very thick.   The direct route to Skopie was closed due to avalanches of snow.

Albert’s diary

• Have now left Sibenik on our way to Dubrovnik travelling along the mountain coast road.  Had no time to stop at Split have wasted too much time already.  Could see small islands along he complete coast.  Stopped at 4.30 pm to change drivers and finished up with Robin and I having our hair shaven off.  Arrived in Dubrovnik 9.30 pm.  Looked at the city with large walls and a drawbridge and battlements, dwelling quarters etc.  City was built in the 12^th century and at the present day has 7,000 people living in its walls and 25,000 outside. 

Thursday 2 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke at 7.30hrs.  Chris had got up early for a quick start.  Tossed and turned as I tried to sleep whilst the bus was motoring.  The conditions were very bad.  The locals had said they were bad.  Ice packed solid and rutted on the road.  Reached Mojkovac and Vrapce Polve.  The conditions getting worse.  The road wound and twisted up in the mountains, sheer drops and cliff faces.  The scene was a view one would get in an aircraft.  By the time we reached Ivangrad we wish we could take a less hazardous route, but the routes to Skopje were blocked.  This was the only route open.  When I got up we had just left Ivangrad.  Apparently the conditions were getting worse and they were.  The ice was getting worse, black in places.  We were making for Rozaj.  The road became more twisting and steep with lorries wanting to overtake.  Once we slid to the verge of snow with a sheer drop to follow.  We had to reverse once to allow a convoy of lorries through.  The Yugoslavs drive in convoys in case one should go off the road they can then help if they go over the edge as well.  Upon rounding a bend we found one lorry off the road with one stopped and the driver and mate helping.  With our help we got the lorry on the road again.  We hadn’t gone more than 1km when the other lorry had gone off the road.  The first lorry, who was in trouble before, pulled him out.  That’s why they travel in convoys.  Our turn was to come when slowly going downhill we just slid into a bank of snow and ditch on the right side, if it had been on the wrong side I wouldn’t be writing this now, for there was a drop of 50 ft.  We were eventually pulled out by a lorry from a convoy on the descent.  From there on we took it very easy.  We finally reached Rozaj, where we were completely surrounded by people who wanted to exchange knives and odds and ends for jackets and clothes.  We left Rozaj at 18.00hrs and stopped for the night outside the town, we couldn’t have stopped in the town with that crowd.  Once we had stopped we found we had run out xxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxx our water supply from a fast flowing river.  An Imp with two nurses and a New Zealander stopped.  They too are going to Aussie overland.   Retired 24.00.

Ron’s diary

• Feeling a bit better this morning.  We left the town for Ivangrad.  The roads are thick with pack ice and has deep ruts in it.  When we left Ivangrad we had to climb steep mountain roads which were unmade.  The engine boiled so we had breakfast of soup and potatoes.  We eventually came across a lorry blocking the road because of ice.  We all helped to push and everybody was very helpful.  I was at the wheel when I slid off the road into a very dep ditch.  The bus was leaning about 15o the other side of the road would have been doom!  A lorry in a convoy stopped to pull us out with a lot of helpers due to a coach in the convoy.  We finally got to a small town where we tried to get diesel, oil and bread.  No luck until morning so we pulled outside of town for dinner after hundreds of spectators in the town tried to buy Skipper’s coat etc.  Surprise!  a knock on the door.  A New Zealander and two English girls walked in.  They were making for Ceylon and New Zealand.  They were camping and had a Hillman Imp. 

Albert’s diary

• Left Dubrovnik 2.30 am.  Travelled to Risan stayed overnight.  Awoke later.  Same day and found that the ferry fare across the lake was too much so decided to drive around the mountain roads, but did not realise that this meant at 6,00 to 8,000 ft (?) thick ice avalanches etc.  Low bridges and a climb of 26 hairpins and another 28 low bridges.  Travelling very slow and miles behind our schedule.  Several roads blocked by ice and snow.  Stopped for the night in a village called Kolasin.

Friday 3 February 1967   

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• (Clear Skopje  Approx distance 25 miles?  New route to Skopje.

• Ever lasting bumping my head on the roof of the bus or on the spare bunk which is above me.)

• Woke 09.30hrs.  Had returned to Rosaj to tank up with diesel.  The Yugoslavs here didn’t have a garage just a fuel store.  The fuel was drawn from a large tank then tapped into 20 litre cans then to the vehicle.  We were completely surrounded by Yugoslavs, all inquisitive and eager to barter for anything.  From Roaj Ken driving.  At 12 o’clock we stopped for breakfast.  The roads improved to asphalt.  In North Parza the first group decision was held on an alternative route.  The choice was to take the long way round over good road … the decision was to take the short cut which at the beginning was fine. Good road, a little rough, no snow now as we were low down.  We have now cleared the mountain range which separates the coast road from the motorway to Belgrade.  It’s got dark soon as we followed the railway on our right.  The road was too good to be true as it developed potholes.  Met a lot of heavy transport coming from the assumed direction of Skopje.  It was quite dark now as the road became flat and straight.  We lost the railway track on our right and the hills on our left.  Patches of tarmac but more rough sections.  We slowly picked our way round and over the rough.  The incessant rattling downstairs was driving us mad.  Ken driving, hits a really rough section and some plates drop from the plate rack, breaking one of the plates, was the now famous nude plate.  Curses from all.  Argument with Ken.  Everyone agreed drive on this road is really bad.  Flat country, no landmarks, no lights, nothing.  Drive it seems like hours.  Still no lights.  Around 11.30 hit at last good roads.  Pass check point.  Ask if Skopje is near.  Not far.  Pass through Skopje, nearly all flat.  Earthquake.  Shanty houses.  Stray dogs.  Well lit.  Change of drivers, Albert’s turn.  Jump from the cab and walk to the rear of the bus to be confronted by bald Albert.  We both just laugh and laugh.  Laugh I’m bald too.  Road clear the city and park for the night.  Dog tired.

Ron’s diary

• We filled up with diesel first thing at 8.00 am out of jerry cans from a fuel store near Parza (?).  At 12 o’clock we stopped for breakfast.  The road then became asphalt to Raska, where we had to take alternative roads. We took the shortest route, it was terrible, just like a mud track, but we had a good section just before Skopje and back to the rough.  We stopped at 4.00 pm.  PS Ken made history for being the first to break any plates etc over the poor roads. 

Albert’s diary

• Left Kolasin on an unmade road covered with ice.  Road blocked by tanker stuck in a ditch after we and others (lorries) helped to clear the road.  We joined the end of the convoy followed for a few miles until we slide on a left hand bend and slide into a ditch.  As we were last the others never stopped.  Waited for a few hours until the next convoy came.  They towed us out.  Getting dark now still heading for Skophe.  Before I woke we had arrived at the Greece border. 

Saturday 4 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke early although I had been driving on the rough and cleared Skopje last night. The road was very straight, made of bricks placed end to end.  Either side ran an avenue of trees, a grass hard then a ditch.  I assumed that the Belgrade motorway lay on my left and we would soon join it.  After some 15 miles sure enough the motorway single track, alternating double, came up on my left. Now I could get a move on.  20mph to a possible 38.40mph.  Top speed seems to have dropped by 2mph.  The difference in road conditions was great and the countryside soon drifted away  Yugoslav – Greece border.  Soon reached border to find a Triumph Herald had rolled just at the Yugoslav border.  The officials were fussing around.  The car was a complete wreck as it lay some twenty yards off the road down a slope.  The driver was a little shaken but OK.  He was driving to Athens and was in a hurry.  Cleared border formalities and drove over no man’s land to the Greek border.  Checked out and topped up the water and fuel tanks.  Went to change my Yugoslav money to Grecian to find they would not take it.  This meant I would have to walk all the way back.  This I did with Chris Price.  What a walk.  Once back at the bus we had a meal then set off for Salonica.  Before reaching the main town we passed an army assault course which was too much of an attraction, we all had to try.  Half killed me.  Ropes, bars etc.  Had rest in the bus.  Didn’t feel at all good.  Slept on the front seat as Pricey drove to Thessalonica. Once in the town Ken, Albert and Jones went to the market for veg which they brought back in a bucket.  Pestered by youths and a Greek lad who wanted any addresses of girls in UK as pen friends.  Drove on east to Turkey.  Stopped about 8 o’clock for a meal.  By this time I felt really bad and went to bed.

• While feeling very bad by tea time I skipped the meal.  Strange voices could be heard downstairs but I was so sick I couldn’t care less.  I was as sick as a dog about 10.00 and delirious, tossing and turning, cold and hot.  I couldn’t imagine what it was.  Tried to sleep but couldn’t.

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 8.30 am when I heard the bus start.  Robin was driving, as we went through the last stretch of Yugoslavia.  Albert drove through the border at about 2.30 local time.  Just as we arrived we saw an English reg. Triumph Herald that had skidded and rolled.  The driver was a black doctor.  We offered him a lift but we made his wreck drivable and he drove to Athens. On the Turkish side we met some New Zealand people going to England.  We had dinner there and Derek and I had a drink in a hotel nearby.  6s – 7s for two beers.  We arrived in Salonica just before dusk, where we went shopping in the market.  We me some people travelling together in a minibus caravan.  One an Aussie, three Americans and a Canadian girl.  We invited them in and we played records and they smoked MJ.  We moved into our night spot just short of Kavalla.  PS I cut cards for the Good Year ashtray and Albert won. 

Albert’s diary

• 3 – 10 pm  landscape now very flat.  Now the mountains are in the background far in the distance.  A few miles inside the border we arrived at an army assault course at the side of the road.  (The temptation was too large.) After jumping walls, running along planks and climbing ladders I was not fit to complete the second half of the course.  (Chris did.) (Robin ½ ) (Tony bits and pieces.) Keep driving to catch up for lost time.  Met American girls and boys with Australian and new Zealand people.  Some were Heads!!! They had coffee with us then we pushed on till the early hours.

Sunday 5 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• (GREECE – TURKEY  Sunday the 5^th.  Trip through Northern Greece eventful with a bath in a thermal hot spring bath.  Written below from memory later.  Obvious reasons related below.  When time permitted.)

• Very ill.  Severe! attack of dysentery.  I couldn’t sleep at all last night so whole night I lay awake in a semi-delirium.  I don’t wish to spend another night like that.  Hours dragged one after the other.  I wanted to be sick but couldn’t.  When morning came it was a relief.  I can vaguely remember during the long arduous night Chris being sick in bed and leaving his bed to go to the trap door etc.  At the time I couldn’t put any bearing on the incident or relate it to myself or my state of health.  Only after, as I write this chapter of the 5^th, as at the time I was too ill to write, did I realise we both had caught dysentery and that Chris would develop a serious condition ‘piles’ which one way and another resulted in his withdrawal from the group.  This of course at the time was not even a possibility.

Ron’s diary

• We left our night spot for Kavalla an hour’s driving away.  When we arrived we saw an American ship in the harbour, but we did not try to get in.  We stopped for dinner just outside the town while waiting for it to be cooked the Americans in his Volkswagon went past.  We pressed onto the Greek-Turkish border.  On the way I saw a sign post “Thermal Baths” so we went to investigate.  Ended up with us all jumping into a pool of warm water inside a building.  It did not cost us anything.  We stopped at the last town Alexandroupolis (Thessaloniki) which was bustling with life. Everybody was walking up and down in the main street.  We arrived at the border and we had trouble getting into Turkey without a carnet, but we succeeded.  We stopped for the night just outside of the border. 

Albert’s diary

• Started to drive at 7.30am.  Chris and Tony have signs of dysentery.  Ron just the opposite.  Saw road sign to thermal baths 2 miles.  Went to have a look and finished up having a bath in a concrete pool approx. 8’ x 8’ x 5’ in size.  The whole pool was covered by a small shed.  Salt tasting water with bubbles coming through.  We all got in together. 

Monday 6 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Slept very well last night.  I have shaken the bug so far.  We are now motoring towards Istanbul, the gate way to the East.  It is raining and cold.  It is far colder than I imagined it to be.  Stopped for breakfast in a small Turkish village or town by the sea.  We had not stopped more than two minutes when a young Turk with a small thin moustache came up to us “Exchange money”  “Pound yes”.  We asked his rate and he offered 26 lira to 1 pound.  So we checked with a bank in the square and the national rate was 25 lira to 1 pound sterling so back we walked, the rain getting worse, to exchange money.  The exchange rate for the pound and dollar unfortunately became better and in Istanbul the rate given unofficially by people in the street, we were approached by a taxi cab driver, had risen to 30 lira to 1 pound and they make a profit.  By bringing drachma into Turkey and not changing it on the Greek side of the border I lost approximately 18 shillings in £7 10 0 exchange.  It pays to have sterling or dollars hard cash with you.  Istanbul is murder to drive in.  Cars are all American drags.  It was about 7.30pm when we finally hit the centre of the city.  It was cold and a strong wind was blowing the rain into our faces as we walked avoiding large puddles in the roads to the British Embassy to collect our mail.  I felt really bad, depressed and sick from dysentery.  Generally we are all rough.  Reached the British Embassy after a long walk down small dirty streets.  The Embassy as it stood large with a high wall surrounding the main building, more grand as it was situated in such dirty surroundings, the local market and stores just outside.  Our mail helped cheer us all up as we faced a walk back.  Once in the bus and a meal inside us we all cheered up.  Albert is looking bad.  I guess he is next.  The weather outside remained cold and the wind was still high.  What a place.  Maybe I would view it in a different light if I felt OK.

Ron’s diary

• We left our night spot to drive through driving rain until Tekerdag where we stopped on the promenade for breakfast.  A Turkey restaurant owner came up with his umbrella and wanted to change our money and take us to his café.  We went to the local bank to find the exchange rate 25.25 lira to the £.  It rained most of the way to Istanbul.  There were hardly any buildings on the route.  When we arrived in Istanbul we stopped outside a mosque, where a fellow gave us directions through the town.  We finally parked after an arduous drive through rush hour traffic.  Chris, Rob and I went to the embassy to collect letters and buy bread and pills for constipation and diarrhoea.  We got soaked in the rain.  I went for another look round with Derek and Skip after the rain stopped. 

Albert’s diary

• Arrived Turkish border 1 am.  Officials not very helpful as we have no carnet.  After a big discussion we were allowed through.  We stopped after a few miles for the night.  Pressed on same morning for Istanbul.  Stopped in bank to find a bank to change our money, but we got a better rate for sterling from a restaurant.  Arrived in Istanbul 7.30 pm. 

Tuesday 7 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke 10.30hrs.  Slept well.  Have shaken the bug which has gone through the bus.  I got a very mild form of dysentery, very mild.  The weather this morning is cold but bright.  We shall spend the day in Istanbul and hope to leave tonight.  After being sick for two days I have got behind with my writing.  I have not made an entry for three days.  It has hit everybody one by one.  All we wanted to do was to sleep.  The bus has now been cleaned up and have driven to the British Embassy where we received permission to park the bus.  It is safer here than outside with those Turks, their manner makes me distrust them.  It has roused a great deal of interest.  The Vice Consulate came round to see over the bus.  One major problem presented itself which at this time was serious.  Two girls wished to join us.  They had got into trouble over working without a permit.  They got the sack and the night club was closed.  The position was discussed that evening and the group split.   Skip,  Chris and Derek for, Ken, Albert and myself against.  Ron, with the casting vote, said for one reason he didn’t mind, but for a possible eventuality he would vote against.  So a possible set of  trouble was carefully avoided.  On a trip such as this girls can become a source of trouble amongst a group of lads, each girl possibly playing one person against the other.  Jealousy and if let go too far rifts can set in. Wrote a letter to Joe requesting a carnet as we know we cannot go any further without one.  All being well the carnet should be in Antakya by the time we arrive there.  Antakya is the last main town before the Syrian border.  Found the British Embassy toilets most handy.  Tonight we, that is Skip, Chris, Ron and myself, went to the night spots of Istanbul.  Found a small place, bought a beer each and waited for the show.  This was 21.00.  The show didn’t start until 24.00.  Our beer was soon drunk and as it was so expensive we ordered two bottles between us and slowly, very slowly, sipped as we knew if we finished too soon, and that we couldn’t buy any more due to the cost, we would be thrown out and miss the show.  We just made it, with half a glass to spare.  Every time the manager came we would grab our glass and pretend to drink.  Cheapskate.  The show by the way was not very good.

Ron’s diary

• I got up and had to find somewhere to shit, I walked in a circle of about two milesand arrived back at the bus which was parked outside Turkey’s radio station.  We drove the bus to the British Embassy where it caused a great deal of interest.  We spent the day walking about the town and experienced money changers in all different trades.  We had beef sandwiches and crushed oranges and grapefruit drinks in our “snack bar”.  I spent a lot of time in the afternoon in the consul’s office sorting out the carnet problems and two English girl hitch hikers.  We wrote a letter to Dad and postcards to Paul etc and Ken and I went and posted them.  Skip, Chris, Rob and I went to a nightclub at about 12 midnight, where we had to make our beers last – (7s each) – Chris danced with the club’s hostess, a belly dancer who was very nice.  We got back to the bus at 3 am.  The police knocked a man out cold with their truncheons in the main street in the afternoon. 

Albert’s diary

• Visited the British Embassy where we created quite a disturbance.  We were approached by two British girls who wanted a lift to India but we voted against this.  Parked bus on the forecourt of the British embassy, very handy for the toilet.  Desk man helpful. Robin wrote a letter to Joe for a carnet.  Had to leave B.E. premises before 9 pm.  Ron, Skipper, Chris and Robin went to see belly dancer.  I still felt ill.

Wednesday 8 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• EUROPE – ASIA

• (Ref 7^th evening) Spent the time after 12 midnight viewing night life of Istanbul   Eventually chose a night spot off the main high street, down a flight of stairs to a dimly lit basement.  A small band was playing and a small place was reserved for dancing.  Completely on guard we bought some drinks, four bottles of beer cost 10 lira a piece.  Got back to the bus about three and slept till late in the morning.

• Drove the bus once again to the British Embassy and parked on the forecourt.  Once again the toilets were in great demand. Filled our tanks up with good fresh water.  Albert went out to buy some fresh food supplies.  Both Albert and myself feel really rough.  Had a late lunch on the Embassy forecourt. Eventually left on the ferry crossing approx. 17.00 hrs.  Had great difficulty to find the ferry.  The route took us through some confined parts of Turkey’s Istanbul and with Ken driving and down hill most of the way things weren’t too good.  Before long Ken, with his full attention on over head cables and the traffic, crunched an overhanging balcony.  No real damage.  The usual chorus from the back row, Derek leading.  Finally picked our arduous route to the ferry, only to see a queue of coaches stretching way into the darkness.  We laid conveniently off the line ready to jump the lot.  After a little wait the drive on off ferry berth displace (?) is load (?) and with no hesitation drove on just to clear the bridge which spanned over the boat, clearance was in inches.  The efficiency was real good and in minutes we were soon on our way over the Bosporus.  Europe and half of Istanbul just twinkling it’s (?) and Asia with Istanbul, the other half, awaiting the first bus double decker from England overland on its shores.  To me that small stretch of water made more difference in distance from England than any land mass, divided.

• A small incident with the ferry ticket collector and we were on our way through Asia.

Ron’s diary

• We got up and had breakfast and drove down to the British Embassy again.  I went to have a sandwich at our “local” and then Rob, Ken and I walked to the Turkish Automobile Association for a carnet, but we did not have any luck.  We finally arrived back at the bus at 2.30 pm where we had dinner a little later of fish, potatoes and peas.  We left just at the rush hour peak in darkness.  Wilko was driving and he managed to hit a balcony and sign board, but there wasn’t any visible damage.  We got to the ferry.  Albert, Skip and I went to get the tickets, which we fiddled a little, but it still cost us 74 – 50 lira – (70 for the bus).  On the ferry they gave small glasses of tea away, of which I had one.  On leaving the boat Wilko jumped the ticket collector and he ran after us blowing his whistle and banging on the side of the bus.  We stopped and gave him our tickets, he was fuming and slammed our door and went back.  The police stopped us about our lights but didn’t trouble us.  Chris slept downstairs because of his dysentery.   

Albert’s diary

• Revisited British Embassy to fill tanks with water and to park.  Whilst shopping for bread, oranges and fish.  Had fish on British embassy forecourt before leaving for Istanbul.  Ken was driving when we hit a veranda as we passed along a narrow busy street.  Arrived at Istanbul ferry.  Paid four people only.  Because of height only 3 ins to spare.

Thursday 9 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• NEW CONTINENT ASIA

• Over slept.  Should have started driving at 08.30hrs.  Up at 10.30hrs.  Had breakfast. Started driving at 12.30hrs heading for Ankara.  Spent the night just outside Izmit.  Can see the Marmara Denizi from the cab seat.  On the right side the sea joins the Med with the Black Sea, with Istanbul guarding the strait.  The E5 motors to Ankara some 310km away.  The roads are in good condition straight and wide.  The lorry drivers drive badly in Turkey.  I wonder if they have ever taken a driving test.  The dust is a big problem.  The lorries bore past, dust forming a cloud which you can’t  see through.  Drove for some 50km until Skip took over.  Albert should have taken over but, like Chris, he did not feel well.  Both have got the back street trots.  The surrounding land is high and mountains both sides.  Snow up the sides of the fir covered mountains.  The E9 runs between the mountain ranges, eventually rising until it rides over the mountains where they meet.  It’s very cold up here.  It took some 1 ½ l (?) to climb over the range.  Now motoring height some 2000ft approx. along a flat road to Ankara.  Stopped for dinner just outside Bolu.  The buildings are poor and badly built.  Small and square in looks.  The women walk around with veils of white over their faces and black hoods on their heads.  Horse traps pull carts full of logs.  Sheep are in prominence in large herds.  They seem to be the only livestock in abundance except for an occasional bullock or cow.  The police seem to be hot on lights in Turkey.  Twice today we have been paid a visit by them.  Ron driving.  Snowing hard.  Pack ice on the road.  The bus is sliding over the road so are other vehicles more so than us, at least we have the weight advantage over the Turks’ commercial lorries.  Ken driving.  Packed snow on the road.  Conditions getting worse.  Retired bus still going 23.45hrs.  My rota tomorrow.

Ron’s diary

• I got up 9.30 am after a very restless night.  Chris was still shitting.  We had breakfast, and set off for Ankara on the route E5 which was not very impressive.  We stopped for dinner in the early evening, potatoes, cabbage, meat and Yorkshire pudding.  I started my shift bin the evening and the snow started.  It grew worse and it became like a blizzard.  The road, although I didn’t realise it at first, was like a sheet of ice, and a lorry in front of me was sliding everywhere.  I stopped to get some fuel and I had a cup of tea – (Turkish) – where I met some Israeli drivers delivering second hand coaches from Germany.  We stopped for the evening 45 k (?) from Ankara where the snow was still very thick. 

Albert’s diary

• Arrived now on the opposite side of the river still in Istanbul, but slums only on this side.  Parked for the night just outside of town.  Motoring now on towards Ankara over the mountains once again, but roads of motorway standards.  Lorries that have crashed were just part of the scenery, many badly damaged.  Nothing but barren and bleak land. 

Friday 10 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Spent a cold night.  Went to bed with one jumper on and socks it’s so cold.  Woke 8.30hrs.  Once up I wrapped up well to start my rota.  It had stopped snowing.  Stepped outside and fell on my back the roads were that slippery.  Even so the Turks drive at 40 or 50 mph on packed snow.  The snow chains help a lot, but to drive that fast is asking for trouble.  I gingerly drove the bus on the road, carefully changing gear.  Surprisingly the bus handles well in these conditions.  Even at 30mph the lorries still motor past, their snow chains rattling.  Everyone uses snow chains.  Fairly level run.  Still high up, would account for the weather conditions.  The roads had started to thaw.  When I started my shift we were some 40 km from Ankara.  Stopped for breakfast 10km from Ankara.  On the road we saw three crashes.  Each had overturned.  Roads had thawed so much so it was mad to go outside as a lorry approaches, as you just get sprayed from head to foot.  Motored around the outskirts of Ankara, the capital of Turkey.  Radio said it’s 11 o’clock Turkey and 9 o’clock GMT.  Two hours difference so far east.  Climbing now.  Albert driving.  The lorries still annoy Derek as they pass blaring their horns.  I must say they can get annoying so loud.  From Ankara on the E5 to Konya.  Parted at a fork and took the E5 through Aksaray to Ulukisla.  The road is so bleak, just endless snow covering each side of road, flat in places rising to hills.  Run out of diesel midway between Kaldirim, Memiahasi and Acipinar, just after a great lake called Tuz Golu.  Filled the tank with five gallons from a jerry can then stopped at the first garage where two Turks served us with diesel.  To pump the diesel to the bus they had to turn a large handle on the pump.  The Turks then asked if we would sell them our jumpers or jackets,  We bartered for an hour and Skipper got 40 lira for one jumper, two old shirts with no buttons and a scarf.  All gear fit for the rag man.  From here we motored till we stopped for dinner at 9 o’clock.  Still waiting at 11 o’clock.  After dinner retired at 24.00 hrs.  It’s a little warmer tonight.

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 10.00 am local time after a good night’s sleep.  We started driving, soon after we arrived in the suburbs of Ankara.  We took the road – (E5) – towards Adana and began to leave the snow behind.  The route is very bleak and the road is straight.  We passed several lorries smashed up in the mud by the roadside. We stopped to have a snack at 1.30 and started at 2.30 only to run out of diesel in the middle f nowhere at about 5.00 pm just before dusk.  We filled up at the next garage, and Skipper and Robin decided to sell their woollens which are in demand.  I started my shift from the garage and drove for 3 hrs nonstop down these straight roads with nothing to see.  9.15 pm we stopped for dinner of onion, chips, omelette and tomatoes.  11.15 still waiting with a very hungry stomach.

Albert’s diary

• Now travelling 18 hours a day to reach Antakia.  Weather very cold.  Man at petrol station bought many old clothes from Skipper for good prices.  Chris still very ill.  We are looking for a U.S.A.F. camp.  We found the camp and a doctor.  Gave us two kinds of pills and 2 bottles of medicine for diarrhoea and stomach cramps as we called them. 

Saturday 11 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke at 10.00. Skipper driving. The scenery is fantastic.  The road is winding down the mountains some 3585 metres high.  As we go down to the coast the surrounding land gets greener and more fertile.  Pass through Pozanti and Gulek.  The people are very poor, living from the small fertile strips or patches of land available amongst the rock and fir trees.  Their houses are poor, just shanty built with whatever they can find.  The poverty seems to get less as we descend.  Reached Tarsus about 13.00 hrs.  The roads are now flat and straight as we head for Adana.  On this road, the E5, we saw our first camels, but looking carefully they had one hump so they were dromedaries.  Once at Adana we stopped to look around and to find a bank to change some sterling.  We hoped a taxi driver could change some sterling above bank rate, as they did in Istanbul, where you were pestered hourly by taxi men.  30 to 32 for 1 sterling.  Here in Adana they were not interested.  All said ‘bank over there’.  25.40 for 1 pound so we didn’t change any money.  Looked around the shops. Ken and Chris had their boots cleaned.  Everywhere in Turkey there are shoe shine boys on street corners and shop fronts.  Just 1 lire (9d) for a very good shoe shine.  Continued to look around the shops..  Shops are so small and disordered.  All they offer is thrust in the small shop window.  Their shop display is terrible.  Walking back to the bus bought some 7 oranges for 1 shilling.  Although there are a large amount of taxis in Adana, the horse traps out number them.  They are horse drawn buggies able to sit about 6.  It’s so unusual to see horse competing with car.  From Adana we motored on the E5 towards Ceyhan, looking for an American air base in hope of medical advice as we still all feel bad from stomach pains and back door trots.  Just outside Adana there was a joint American Turkish air base so we went to the gate and asked for medical help and fresh water.  They, the Americans, were only too pleased to help.  It was the Turks who objected.  Eventually we were allowed in with an escort.  The Yanks helped us a great deal.  Gave us supplies for our complaints and said we would be OK in a few days.  Left the base after the Yanks had tried to get us a pass to stay on the base.  Motored towards Ceyhan.  Stopped, had dinner, retired, assured, 11.40pm.

Ron’s diary

• Skip called me at 10.00am.  The weather was milder and sunny.  Ken and co didn’t take their turn as they were not up.  Skip drove several hours through mountainous country and we saw more lorries which had run off the road.  We arrived in Adana at about 2 pm.  We walked around trying to change our money but we didn’t have any luck.  We saw two American Air Force trucks in town so we looked for the base.        I spotted it on our right 3 or 4 miles out of town, so I drove up to the gate where we asked to see the medical for our dysentery.  We were escorted round the U.S.A.F. and Turkish air base by M.P. car.  The medic gave us some medicines and we filled up with water.  We couldn’t stay for the evening and visit their clubs where two English were, one from Birmingham.  We made tracks for Syria and stopped for dinner at 6.30 pm.  Menu of steak and kidney pie and vegetable.  We saw medic at 11 pm.  We stopped at 2.30 am just short of Antakya. 

Albert’s diary

Today we are still driving to Antakya.  I feel much better this morning no pains and very little runs.  We arrived in Antakya late in the evening.  Still no carnet has arrived yet so we drive towards the Med. coast to do some washing.

Sunday 12 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke 07.50hrs.  Started to drive for Antakya.  We were high in the hills.  Started descent for Antakya.  The hairpins were dangerous to say the least.  The hairpins had a steep entrance and steep exit and the turn itself was banked so the bus chassis would tend to twist as the back of the bus was at an angle opposite to the front which tended to have a twisting action on the bus.  There were some dozen bends of this nature, each a hazard.  Once on the flat we reached Antakya by 0900hrs.  Immediately went to the P.T.T. in hope that our carnet had arrived.  No such luck.  From Antakya we reached Samandagi on the coast.  The wind was blowing hard.  Parked by the hotel.  Samandagi is a holiday resort in the summer.  French, Germans and  Italians stay here in the peak season.   After breakfast walked the beach which is about 10 miles in length and brown in colour.  The sea was a deep green near the beach and a deep blue out to sea.  The wind had made the sea rough.  Giant rollers far out to sea came crashing on the beach.  From one of the single storey beach houses with flat roofs some 50 yds from the beach came a Syrian who introduced us to Sammy who offered to show us around some Roman burial grounds up in the hills further north round the coast.  Once there we climbed into the hills on foot reaching a cliff face with a large opening to one side.  This gorge very narrow led us on a twisting route to a tunnel.  A stream had found a path on the base of the large almost two double decker buses in height man made passage.  Originally the water ran in a trough.  Retraced our steps and climbed the hillside to view dwellings and burial place hewn out of solid rock.  One interesting item back at the gorge was skeletons of small peep (people?) that had tried to bridge the gorge to fall to their death at the bottom.  Back at the holiday resort we circled (?) a tomb three times in the bus said to bring good luck to all travellers.  A typical meal tonight at the local restaurant.  Quite delicious.  Monopoly to finish while I wrote home.

• Stupidly drove the bus onto the beach at Samandagi and got stuck (this became an endless source of leg pulling mainly from Ken).  Star fish up the exhaust pipe.  The story got more and more twisted every time it was told.  It went down well with Jones as a backing “We’re sinking”.

Ron’s diary

• Robin drove first shift and he called me when we arrived at the Post Office – (P.T.T.) – I went in, but the carnet hadn’t arrived.  We drove down to Samandagi where we stopped for the morning.  We had breakfast and spoke to the local people, who told us the local history and suggested we visit Cevlik where in Roman time they buried the dead in caves etc.  “Sammy” showed us around and we visited all the ancient remains 1600 years old.  We saw a Shrine of Moses where he met someone.  It was good luck to drive round this three times so we did.  Called The Tunnel of Titus and Vespasianus.  We had a meal of charcoal fish, egg, salad and chips in the local restaurant which only cost 6 lire, about 4s 6d. We also had a coffee in a miniature cup, it was like syrup.  We parked outside the restaurant and played Monopoly I won!  I stayed up till 4 am reading a book, while Skip and Albert repaired the generator.  Earlier Robin drove the bus onto the beach and we nearly got stuck!

Albert’s diary

• Arrived small holiday resort, but it was out of swing as it was off season.  Met English speaking man named Sammy who showed us a Roman burial ground.  1,500 years old??  Could enter tombs. 

Monday 13 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• TURKISH BATH  DEEP DOWN CLEAN

• Up early to find Albert washing his clothes.  It was the problem of drying them that finally stumped Albert.  The wind was high and carried rain.  The sea was rough, large rollers flowing in onto the long wide sandy beach edged with sheer cliff as far as the eye could see either side of the long curving bay.  Albert had found a large discarded pot and was using this to wash his clothes in.  Passed some time walking on the beach just to be near the sea is a pleasure to me.  Back at the bus the others were still in bed.  The last night’s dinner things remained where they were.  Derek had just gone to bed and left them.  As Derek had been the last to join us, all the bus duties we could find him were what we called “odd jobs” which included washing up the evening that night.  He had missed his commitments.  This annoyed Albert and an argument set in resulting in swear words and abuse being thrown for the lower saloon to the upper saloon and vice versa.  Finale came with a show of force when Jonesy, who had been conducting his side of the battle from his bunk, rushed down the stairs to confront Albert on the road.  Mega action.  Ken of course had to make a remark which I thought was completely unnecessary.  No carnet.  Wait again.  On route to the town we got our first puncture.  F.N.S. met on the edge of town a Turk Mahmude? Who invited us to the tourist office where we parked that evening.  Still cold and wet.  We went to have a Turkish Bath arranged with Mahmude and Bill.  I am sure they received commission which is the normal thing, never the less this Turkish Bath was really grand and after it we felt fine as if we had new skin.  From here we went to a club.  Derek played the fool and we had the pleasure of seeing a third rate belly dancer drunk fall off a table while trying to dance and lay sprawled on the floor to be helped up.  An amusing episode to this waiting game.

Ron’s diary

• I got out of bed at 11.30 am when Derek and Albert had a violent argument.  We started on our way to the P.T.T. and got our first puncture.  We had our breakfast while waiting for it to be mended by Skip and Albert.  Our carnet hasn’t arrived, so we parked outside the tourist office where we met some really helpful people.  We walked around the market where we met two English speaking boys.  They told us that they met the two English girls and New Zealand fellow we met in the Yugoslavian mountains.  They went through at 10.00 am yesterday on their way to Damascus. I sent some postcards home.  We all went to a Turkish heat bath where we really had to sweat.  It was very good.  We were then shown to a night club where drinks cost us 6.50 lire each and Derek danced with a fat belly dancer.  I went to bed at 2.00 am. 

Albert’s diary

• Today I was up first to rise.  I did my washing in a large pot that I found on the beach.  Later I had an argument with Derek over the fact that Derek had not done the washing up that evening.  Driving along the mountain road when I had a blow out on front near side tyre.  Arrived back at the town still no carnet.  Met three men at tourist office.  Went for a Turkish bath, had red carpet treatment.  Later went to club and saw a belly dancer.

Tuesday 14 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)  

• A  WAITING GAME

• A waiting game can be the worst to play. The weather is far from agreeable.  It has become a little tedious living so close in a small area with nothing to do.  (The devil makes work for idle hands.) Cards are one vent and Monopoly perhaps another.  Antakya has little to offer and our optimistic walk to the PTT office once again deadened any spirit we had for the day when once again we received the same answer “Sorry no” in broken English.  A walk around the market helped little to brighten our enthusiasm.  Markets still retained an interest and before long we had a willing guide, in this case two, who were eager to practise their English on us.  Our twisting walk through cobbled streets wet and muddy proved interesting as we passed tinsmiths, tanners, jewellers, café and dress stalls.  All open and not glass fronted.  The meat specially subject to all foreign bodies, dirt, smoke and flies as it hung exposed outside.  Ken went from butcher to butcher searching for a clean shop, one was a bad as another.  Ken bought some meat, 2 kilos, which Derek and myself considered disgusting.  With the words an American at the USAF base had said in Adana about TB we flatly refused to eat it.  Wandered around for some time and was appalled at the horse drawn carriage.  The poor horse so pathetically thin and tired.  How much food did they get?  The cabby himself looked sick wrapped in an old jacket and moth eaten scarf.  He got little food, his horse less.  To look at the poor beasts bones protruding from their dark brown skin, their mane matted and dull in colour.  It was surprising how they could possibly pull such grossly overloaded traps.  Back at the bus Ken prepared the meat for a curry.  Ron and Chris went to the pictures while we, the rest, played cards, records and darts in the tourist office.  The weather is cold and it’s raining hard.

Ron’s diary

• Skip got me up at 10.45 and we went to the P.T.T. but the carnet hadn’t arrived, so we walked around the market and came back to check the engine and make some air filters.  We found a small diesel leak and a badly worn hose which we didn’t replace.  We tried to fix a suppressor to the dynamo with no luck.  Chris and I walked round the market again and we went into many little shoe shops where Chris tried to explain he wanted Cossack boots.  I bought a pair of shoes which were hand made in the local market.  They cost 10s sterling and 12 lira Turkish (??).  On our way back were invited into a Turks abode or shop (??) where there were a dozen or more pigeons.  We were given a cup of tea and had a chat with one who spoke a little broken English.  We spent the earlier part of the evening in the tourist office with our friends.  They looked at our photos and bought half a bottle of whisky from me for 30 lire (??) 25s.  Chris and I went to the pictures and saw a sad Turkish film.  WE left before the finish.

Albert’s diary

• Waited most of the day for the carnet.  Had short walk round the town, played records and darts that evening.  Carnet did not arrive.  Ron and Chris went to the pictures.  Weather was cold and raining. 

Wednesday 15 February 

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Woke to a possible thought, the carnet perhaps it was here then we could leave and get on our way.  This waiting is costing us money.  Muddled through the morning doing nothing and in the afternoon, with it still bitter cold, Derek and myself decided to visit the old church of the disciple Paul, high in the rock face to the south.  It’s one of the first Christian churches to have been built when Antakya had the biblical name of Antioch.  Paul travelling north, spreading the gospel and founded this church which at the time was a cave.  Today its value as a start to Christianity can be seen.  The cave now bricked in and a frontispiece surrounding the small area.  We reached the church just as Skip, Ron and Albert did.  We were in turn pestered by a Turk with coin finds.  These finds are quite common in the surrounding hills and presents a small trade for the locals.  The front was not very impressive but a marvellous view could be had of a plain which stretched for miles.  We could just define our bus, a local landmark, there weren’t many.  The church had a charge for entry and on principle we didn’t pay instead we rambled along a river course which came from the hills and wound down through the town.  Its swollen banks we followed up into the hills by a small donkey track.  Very narrow in places.  Met donkeys and sheep and cattle on the way up and down.  Deep in the hills, or now mountains, an attempt to dam the river and build a wall has been accomplished by the French some I believe 40 years ago.  Very impressive.  Now today the wall is in ruin but still serves as a fording point of the river.  You cross some hundred feet up from the river.  The gorge is very deep.  Once on the other side we made our way back and then to the bus.  This walk had made a pleasant change.

• (Curry) (New dice game)

• No carnet.  Phone Ron’s father in England and he said it had been duly posted on Monday 13^th so it’s just a matter of time.  Two Danes arrived late tonight travelling in an A40, both from just outside Denmark, John and Flynn.

Ron’s diary

• 11 am had a cup of coffee.  Wrote some postcards and had breakfast.  Robin and Skip, Ken, Derek, Albert and I went to see the first church ever established.  It was cut out of the rock face of a mountain.  Derek didn’t want to pay the 1.5 lira to go in so we walked round the mountain paths and saw the remains of an earlier civilisation and lots of natural caves.  We walked through the village and markets.  We had dinner – (curry) – 6 pm and then invited Mumood and Bill, the Albanian, for dinner.  They had it in their office.   They bought wine and cake.  We met two Danes, John and Fenn who are travelling to Damascus in A40.  Ken and I booked a telephone call home at 8.10 pm 6.10 GMT and had to wait from 9.45 to 10.55 local time.  They phoned home and Mum got the GPO to transfer the call to West Drayton where Dad was.  Spoke to Dad and Jim for 8 mins 128 lira £5.  They said they sent our carnet on Monday night and stood security for £150 (??).

Albert’s diary

• I write postcards and letter to Les.  Later Ron, kip and I went to see the first known church of Christianity built when Antakya was known by its biblical name of Antioch.  We got a short lift on a horse and cart.  Arrived at church where Rob and Derek caught us up.  They wanted us to pay to enter and Derek complained on principle “Why should you have to pay to visit a house of God?”, so we refused to pay.  We walked over the mountain tracks to some old ruins, very interesting. Telephoned England about carnet.  Joe said that it was posted on Monday.  Two Danes arrived.  John and Fynn they stayed in their A40 overnight. 

Thursday 16 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• STILL NO CARNET

• The Danes, John and Flynn, left early this morning.  Everyone is moving on except us.  Same routine visit to the P.T.T. office, still no carnet.  Beginning to really hate the place.  Cards and Monopoly are too much.  Try to write but it’s too cold in the bus, not really any better in the tourist office.  Keep spending our money on small items, cakes and coffee.  With the Danes gone for Damascus and a possible reunite in Beirut, things are dead again.  The day has dragged, with a short walk to the local compound we tried to waste the day.  It’s getting cold, it has been for days.  It may snow said Mahmude.  He’s really funny, black cropped hair, thick lips, typical Turk.  Always wears a suede jacket and smokes a cigarette through a holder of a special design.  Bill, he is quite different.  Long hair well b?? but with that that typical moustache.  His English is good.  Mahmude is rather odd.  Makes you laugh to hear him.  For ‘snake’ he would say ‘snick’.  This evening we all visited the compound, Derek to the fore.  15 Turkish lire 11 shillings 11 pence , what a price.  Back at the tourist office we settled into normal wait.  How many more days can it be.  The Turks, Bill, Mahmude and the others, cook (Armenian) and a young Turk (waiter) are very good at playing darts and Monopoly.  The Dagos are really excellent.  The cook is a real wizard.  He lived in Armenia. Georgia is one of those small states between Russia and Turkey before the Russians took a fancy to them in, I believe, 1902.  He is a refugee, along with many more who are scattered all over Turkey, Middle East etc.  A few beers after hours and bed.

Ron’s diary

• 9.30am. I talked to the Danes who were getting ready to move off in their ex (M.G.A.) A40.  They were asking for Damascus and Israel and Egypt.  We made arrangements with Mumood to take us to the market to buy gold.  We met some Australians just before 3 pm when we were supposed to go shopping with Mumood.  They told us that sheepskin jackets were very cheap in Afghanistan and silver extremely cheap in Brazil and Mexico.  Finally set off at 3.30 for the P.T.T. and the market.  NO LUCK WITH OUR CARNET and we did not buy any gold.  The American teachers left for Israel at 3.30 and they gave us a load of magazines.  We stayed in the bus most of the afternoon killing time.  In the evening we all went to the local compound with Mumood and had a good laugh.  Got back at 10.00 pm and bought a beer. 

Albert’s diary

I awoke at the noise of Ron, Skip and the Danes talking.  When I got up they were about to leave for Damascus.  After taking photos we said our goodbyes.  That evening we all went to the local compound with Mamude.  Had a good laugh.  Derek, Ron and Robin.  Finished up at the Information Centre with a beer. 

Friday 17 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• STILL NO CARNET

• Woke 11.00hrs.  Still waiting for the carnet.  We have, including today, spent 6 days waiting.  It is so cold today.  Different to yesterday when it was very warm.  At 12 noon it was snowing.  If the carnet comes today it should be a rough crossing over the mountains to the Syrian border.  Ron has gone to the P.T.T. office early today in the hope the carnet has come and we can leave Antakya.  All this hanging around is no good.  Must move soon.  No carnet.  Ron went to the post office at one o’clock.  I guess it will come tomorrow.  To crown it all it is snowing and hard.  The mountain you can normally see from the bus is completely covered in a snow blizzard.  The snow is settling.  A GB Austin J2 minibus has arrived at the tourist centre.  This bus, parked where it is on the roundabout outside the tourist centre, attracts all foreign passing traffic.  Now it’s a New Zealand couple on their way to India.  They had arrived last night and this morning were going to Damascus over the mountains but had to return as the road was impassable.  While we were kicking our heels at the café an American couple arrived, talked about being a cosmopolitan gathering.  They too were going to Damascus but fortunately for them, and everybody who has passed by touring like us, they have their carnet (green).  The Americans could not go over the mountains so, like the New Zealanders, they have stayed overnight.  The snow has stopped and the mountains can be seen.  The American couple, along with the New Zealanders, had coffee in the bus.  We had a pleasant conversation.  Made a change from talking with Mahmude or Bill or playing Monopoly in the tourist agency.  Ron and Chris returned from the cinema in the town.  We then retired about 12 o’clock.

• (The Kiwi. Alan, is quite a fellow.  Told us about his adventures in China and Russia.  Very interesting.  He was a teacher in New Zealand.)

Ron’s diary

• 11.15 came downstairs.  Rob was doing the washing up.  I went to the T. office, Bill and Mumood were there.  Had breakfast just before 12.00 noon where we noticed an English J2 caravan with two people, they invited four of us to visit the Roman ruins with them.  I went to the post office 2 pm.  No luck.  It turned very cold and started to snow.  We settled down to a game of Monopoly in the tourist office with Bill, Robin, Derek and Chris.  We all started to cheat against Derek who was winning.  While playing two Americans drove up in a Volkswagen minibus, Doug and Millie.  They were surprised to see the English version of the game being played in turkey.  Had dinner at 7.0 pm of potatoes, minced meat, carrots, onions and peas.  Chris and I went to see two American films in Turkish lingo.  When we got back at midnight they were all in the bus including the New Zealanders and Yanks chatting about ald times.  Had some Horlicks and went to bed at 1.15 am.

Albert’s diary

• STILL NO CARNET.  Got up to find that some of the others had gone to the mountains with a New Zealand man and his wife in a J2 van.  They came back early to snow.  Played Monopoly in the office, all of us cheating Derek.  Two Americans arrived Doug and Millie Groom. Later Derek started a discussion about Germans and Americans etc which went on to 1 am in a very friendly way.  Played records and drunk coffee in the bus. 

Saturday 18 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• TURKEY – SYRIA

• Woke at 10.00.  The contrast in weather here is fantastic.  It is now warm.  The sun is shining, all the snow gone, even on the hills.  At 11.00hrs Ron went immediately to the P.T.T. office in hope the carnet had arrived.  It had.  So after 6 days of waiting we could finally set forth without hindrance as far as customs were concerned.  We said goodbye to Mahmude and Bill.  Although we had been enjoying ourselves and the stay was pleasant we were glad to be on the move.  The New Zealand couple drew their Austin J2 outside the agency, so did the Americans in their minibus Volkswagen.  As we were about to move off a special Land Rover appeared and stopped outside along with us.  An English couple, elderly, were touring around the Middle East in a specially converted Land Rover built with every possible convenience.  So self contained with sink, hot and cold running water from a tank with a heater installed, a shower, cupboards, table.  The job cost £3,500 and was professionally built.  He had even installed a compass clock and temperature gauge panel set over the windscreen.  The gentleman said the only problem was the front axle which became loose as some 4 bolts would shake free (vibration).  So finally, after filling up with diesel, we left Antakya.  The American and New Zealand couple filmed our departure, saying they may see us in Aleppo.  Once on the road we settled down for the Syrian border.  It took about 2 hours.  Once through the border we headed for Aleppo.  The roads were in good condition.  In places on this road evidence of the old Roman road can be seen.  On one stretch the Roman road has not been used that is covered with tarmac.  The old road goes to the left and runs for ½ mile while the new road goes to the right.  The Roman road is made of I metre square blocks, just the surface is rough.  The wind has worn depressions on a large number of blocks, apart from this the road could be used.  Once at Aleppo we parked outside the citadel in the centre of the city but we were so pestered by Arabs we had to move to another area less populated.

• Retired 10.30pm.  Very cold weather.

Ron’s diary

• 10.15 washed and had two Marmite sandwiches, and walked down to the P.O. with Albert.  LUCK THE CARNET HAD ARRIVED.  So we walked back and prepared to leave.  We said goodbye to Mumood, Bill and the cook who we promised to find security of work in Australia.  We drove to the fuel station and filled up and had our tyres pumped up.  We left at 1.00 pm for Aleppo.  We didn’t have any trouble getting out of Turkey but had to wait for the Syrians.  Left at 4.30 to arrive in Aleppo at dusk – (6.00 pm) –  We parked near the castle and a driver offered to take us to the tourist office.  On the way we met the New Zealand and Americans parked outside the central police station.  We walked back from the tourist office which was closed and moved the bus back to the centre near the others.  I changed £1 sterling to 11 pound Syrian (??) from a Syrian man who showed us where to park.  Skip and I went to get a canister of water from a shop where I bought four cakes and a large bar of chocolate for I pound – 2s.  – Went to bed at 11.45 pm. 

Albert’s diary

• Ron and I went to PTT ‘LUCK’.  We went back to the bus and charged batteries and made haste to leave after saying goodbye to Bill, Manude and the cook.  We left.  Arrived Syrian border one hour later.  While waiting for customs we met a Canadian who had come from Kuwait on a Triumph m/c.  Later the two New Zealand couple arrived.   After clearance pushed onto Aleppo.  Parked and walked around town had a ride on tram with Chris.  Very picturesque town.  550,000 people.  PS Rob had to write a letter of reference for the cook. 

Sunday 19 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Once up we made for the market in the city.  A market some ?3 km? covered in length, totally covered.  The market offered everything from handmade shoes, meat, fish, veg, clothes, even a mosque.  We were looking for sheep skin coats but had difficulty in finding anything.  The market was very narrow and straight but it was dark.  The only light that was offered was from small sky lights high in the rounding roof.  As well as being dim, it smelt.  The smells would change as you passed by different stalls eg of fresh Arabic bread then leather from the sandal maker or fish or the meat hung where the market traffic could contaminate it.  As the alley which serves the shops are narrow there is little room to pass but they drive donkeys loaded with wood or sacks of nuts, even carts, down the alleys.  Boy it’s murder.  Real dice.  Eventually gave up looking for a sheepskin coat.  By the way we saw hanging up in the meat stalls a large camel carcass.  At first we couldn’t make head or tail of it, until a lad who could speak good English, told us what it was.  He said, would we care to look in a mosque?  A bit apprehensive about going as we are not allowed in a mosque, but he assured us that it would be OK.  So from the market we entered a mosque, taking our shoes off before entering the mosque floor.  Where the praying takes place is covered lavishly with carpets.  Outside in the quadrangle there were Arabs praying on their knees, bending to the East.  No women are allowed in the mosque, except on Fridays, but I for one saw women there, perhaps they canny pray except on Fridays.  In the centre of the quad was a large sundial, different to a sundial as we know it, this dial was scribed upon the floor in the form of lines and as the sun’s rays moved they would cast a shadow and you can tell the time.   From the mosque back to the bus.  Kamal went home while we decided to look round the famous citadel.  Kamal said he would return in an hour’s time.  So off we went to the citadel built high overlooking the city of Aleppo.  This citadel was very impressive.  The main gate offered an excellent view up the bridge to the main tower and fortifications.  Looking from this position you wonder if the citadel was ever taken, it was so well fortified.  It’s a master piece of work in defence.  From this tower a guide, who had a pronounced limp, conducted us around, through the main tower with many turns, passed the lions gate (smiling) and passed the gate with the lions (weeping), then into the open.  You felt like a conqueror who had passed the obstacles and faced the conquered.  If every (time?) this happened, as the design of the entrance is so good, it would have been impossible to have taken the citadel at this point, with its oil shoots and twisting narrow entrance.  The guide showed us the dungeons deep and cold.  To be a prisoner here was death as no man to enter as a prisoner was ever to return.  From there he showed us a place where Abraham milked his grey cow and the tomb of St George? The museum was interesting, especially the skulls and bones of prisoners found in the cells.  Pottery, coins and a scale model which helped to size the citadel, were also in the small museum.  A number of mosques in need of repair could be seen from the tower in the north side of the citadel, we could see all of Aleppo and beyond, quite a sight.  From the tower the guide, by now tired and wanting his lunch, as we had arrived before lunch time, hurried us to the palace, ruined and hardly discernible.  Some of the marble could be seen and the Syrians had renovated some of the brick work, but it still took a lot of imagination to view the palace with its baths and dance room in its true light.  From here we made our way back to the main gate.  Passed piles of stone cannon balls and small iron balls.  Back in the main tower we were shown the throne room.  The ceiling had been removed and sent to a museum, I believe in Damascus.  The ceiling we could see was a …..

• ?????? missing pages

• official guide.  Then some 20km on a police sidecar with two occupants had stopped and were flagging us down.  Here we go again just another police check.  No they wanted us to push their motor bike and sidecar, which had broken down along with our bus.  Laugh.  Just imagine a British bobby stopping a car, can yu take me and my bike down to the police station?  Never.  So to oblige we nosed up to the rear of the sidecar and gently pushed the motorbike and sidecar along, gathering speed until we were doing about 20mph.  We couldn’t go any faster as the bike became excessively hard to handle.  It would pivot and swing from side to side and at one time nearly jack knifed to become a victim of the driver side road wheel.  Once having experienced this he kept well to the centre.  Finally we came to rest and he thanked us for our help.  You know they reminded us of Laurel and Hardy, the fat one with his smile.  Then we realised, where was the tall thin one, surely he was on the bus?  No he wasn’t.  We had left him behind.  Poor fellow, what a walk.  When we told fatter he wasn’t worried he just smiled and shrugged his shoulders.  Said goodbye and continued on to Latakia.  The roads from Allepo were not good and gradually they got worse, so worse that the roads became dangerous, you see in parts the tarmac was good but you could round a bend and find a pot hole stretching the full width of the road.  It was on one of these occasions that Ken hit one of these holes or, as he says, avoided one set and hit the next, couldn’t be helped, but it upset Albert and dere (dear?) Albert found he could sleep better on the front seat instead of on his bunk, so to bed he went when Ken hit the hole Albert was tossed into the air and arrived quite neatly on the coffee table which collapsed and sent him, still in his sleeping bed, amongst all the pop records and record player.  Albert didn’t know what had hit him.  Derek found himself thrust up on the ceiling to collapse half in his bunk and half out.  That was enough, we stopped there and then and called it a day, much to Albert’s complete pleasure, but not before he had sounded off to Ken.  The poor driver, he gets it all, even if it is not his fault.  Time 01.00 hours.

Ron’s diary

• Got up at 9.15 am crowds of kids running and banging on the side of the bus, so Skipper moved the bus to the tourist office.  We then walked round the 6 ½ miles of covered bazaars.  We met an Arab boy of our age who spoke English, he showed us around a mosque and took us to the castle.  Albert, Chris, Skip, Ken, Rob and I went round it.  The guide showed us the tomb of St George where Abraham milked his grey cow.  The castle was built in ______________  We met Kamal as we came out and he introduced us to his friend Zuhair who invited us all to his house.  We stayed there about 1 ½ hours, talking and then they showed us where to buy our tinned food.  We had a large salad and meat sandwich in a snack bar.  When they saw our bus they couldn’t believe it.  They wanted to come with us to Damascus but we didn’t wait for them.  We left Aleppo at 6.00 pm for Latakaya and Beirut.  We met the New Zealanders and Americans on route just outside Ibia.  They had camped down for the night.  We pressed on to Latakaya.  Arrived 1.30 am after some mountains and some very rough roads.  Robin, Chris and I bought some lemons and oranges on the way. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke with Skip who moved bus to tourist information office.  Later all of us, except Derek, walked round the town.  Went to market 7 ½ miles all under cover (??).  Met two lads that spoke English who took us to a mosque, later to the home for coffee.  They wanted to go to Damascus with us but we left without them.  No speak French SLAM. 

Monday 20 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• SYRIA – LEBANON

• It was my turn to drive early this morning.  We were just outside Latakia (El Ladhiqiya) so off I drove about 07.15 hrs in the direction for Lebanon (Beirut) and Mail.  The weather is clear and dry and a little cold.  The road followed the coast which remained on my right for miles.  Slowly the rest of the group rose, or should I say were bumped out of their bunks, the roads were terrible. Skip was up first, Albert next, Ron, Chris, Derek and finally Ken, as usual last.  By this time we had passed Baniyas Tartus Amrit.  Albert took over and in five minutes we reached the Lebanon border.  There was such a rush for all of them to get dressed and take their passports to clear Syria.  By 10.30hrs we were in Lebanon.  All had Lebanese visas except me, cost 2/6 or 1 pound.  Once in Lebanon you could notice the difference between Syria and Lebanon.  Syria has such poverty and is truly Arab, mud huts and people in rags, dirty mud roads with children playing in puddles or on dune heaps, whereas Lebanon is truly Westernised.  Stopped by the coast near some salt farms.  The salt water is pumped up from the sea by windmill, small and simple in design, and filtered as it drains back into the sea.  The filtering is done on a step system.  The water filters through the porous base of the pools some three inches deep leaving salt deposits.  Motored on to Beirut after cleaning the bus completely out.  The scene was breath taking, the sun hot and the sea a deep blue.  As we approached the outskirts of Juniye the coast began to wind and in the distance Beirut could be seen.  The interest as we arrived in the city was great, more interest than usual.  Found the B.E. which was on the Rue de Paris (Corniche) facing the sea.  Collected our letters.  Then looked for a place to wash our clothes.  Found a launderette but it was closed.  Man ? Lebanese stopped looked that evening.  Finally went for a meal.  My first steak for a month, boy was it great, with wine feeling (?) contented and full up 12.00pm …

• The meal cost 13 LP (30/-)

Ron’s diary

• Robin started driving at 7.30 am.  We arrived at the border at 9.30.  I was still in bed.  It took us about 2 hours to pass through and fill with water.  We noticed the difference in Lebanon all westernised and clean.  We stopped for a snack and a thorough clean out.  Then we made for Beirut.  We arrived at 6.30 pm at the British Embassy. Chris had quite a few letters and Skip had none.  We parked just opposite the Embassy on the sea front.  Loads of people stopped to look and they were all very friendly and helpful.  We were (driven) round the town in a new Mercedes and dropped off for a meal – (steak) – It was great!  Cost 11 Lebanon pounds – (25/9) – ??  We walked back to the bus at 1 or 2 am. 

Albert’s diary

• We met American and New Zealand people again, but we decided to travel on after stopping for a meal.  Arrived Syrian and Lebanese border at about 10 am.  I was driving.  Lebanon more civilised so far.  Had an army escort for a mile or so, three men all with rifles.  Arrived Beirut early evening. Went to Embassy to collect mail.  People at Embassy came rushing out to meet us.  After collecting mail we parked opposite Embassy overlooking Mediterranean.  The people did not crowd round as in Syria, this time much more civilised.  A few cars stopped and people wished us luck.  We walked around to look for a launderette.  Found it but it was closed.

Tuesday 21 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• LEBANON  THE SWITZERLAND OF THE MIDDLE EAST

• Got up at 10.00.  Could still feel the effects of that meal last night.  Went with my washing to the laundrette a 1 km away up a large flight of steps.  It was raining.  Had a job finding the place.  Left my washing there and along with the others went to sell our blood which would fetch £4.6.0 (40 LP) for half a litre.  But the blood bank was closed.  After we had gone to the Red Cross hospital where you donate freely.  Whilst we were there Chris and I saw a doc, his dysentery has developed too much to be minor.  A diet for Chris, Laban and Pepsi.  Poor Chris.  Still raining as we walked back to the bus.  Is increasing.  Some really odd characters visited us on the corniche, they each carried guns of different types.  They said they were government officials and had the habit of raising their voices and waving their guns about the bus.  Somewhat nerving.  Dark haired, short and one had a mo.  Two American brothers visit, Charles and Richard, and Mahami who gave Derek a ride in his Chev.

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 9.30 am.  Went to the launderette which cost 11 / 8d. We went to try to sell our blood which they gave us £4. 6s. 0d.  ??  a unit.  We had more visitors all day long, they were taking us around the town and bringing us bread, chicken, cakes and offering us work.  We had several newspaper reporters round.  They came and took some photographs.  They were the Daily Star, The Le Jour, L’Orient.  We went to a dance club in the outskirts of the town, where we got in without paying.  Hamed took us – (all 10) – in his Chevrolet.  We didn’t stay long as the drinks were very expensive.  We went into town and bought some Pepsi Colas, a bottle of whisky – (12.50 l.p.).  We came back to the bus where we stayed up talking until early morning. 

Albert‘s diary

• Skip and I awoke early to go to the launderette.  Ron had already left. Later we all went to the launderette.  Went to Red Cross to sell blood, but they were not interested.  Chris saw medic who gave him more tablets.  I handed film into development shop.  We met many English and Lebanese people.  We met four men with guns, they said they were government agents.  Two brothers visited us from flats opposite, Charles and Richard also met Mahami a coloured chap who took Derek and I for a ride in his Chevrolet.

Wednesday 22 February 1967

Ron’s diary  TWIG REMEMBERS

• Got up at about 10 am.  I went to the American ?  I met Richard.  We went to get the cheapest quote on whisky 11.43 l.p.  30 /-  ??  I bought the newspapers with the photos of our bus in and then went to hire a car.  We found the best one and arranged it for tomorrow.  We drove around the town with Richard in his Merc. and found his friend who knew a great deal of tricks.  We went to a club at 12 where all the pilots go.  They bought us numerous drinks.  We came back to the bus and Sammy was there.  We stayed till 2.00 am.

Albert’s diary

• We are now over run with visitors.  Most of them most interested in our trip.  British Consul object to us using toilet.  Chris, Derek and I went in Chris’ friend’s car – (Opel) –I collected film from chemist, I was most disappointed in results.  Later Mahami and Ali picked Derek and I up.  They showed us the town, he told us he came from Sierra Leone.  We found out he was very rich, at least his father was.  We wound up in the evening after a few beers.  Mahami told us that he was prepared to let us paint his window frames for £12. 

Thursday 23 February

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 8.45 am and met Richard and his friend.  We discussed a project in his car.  I put the bus’ batteries on charge.  I spent most of the day walking around the town.

Albert’s diary

• We awoke today and Mahmi picked Derek and I up and Skip.  We went to but some undercoat for our job.  We started the job about 11 am and at 1.30 pm we had a chicken dinner.  This was the second day that he gave us dinner.  The day before we all went round and we had rice wrapped in cabbage with garlic.  After we went to a college dance but it turned out to be a big con place, so we bought whisky and stopped at bus.  We were in three daily newspapers on Thursday.

Friday 24 February 1967

Ron’s diary

• I spent most of the day walking around with Robin.  WE tried to hire a car to take us to Kuwait, but no luck.  We were absolutely worn out.  We went to the tourist office where an English speaking girl directed us about the town.  In the evening Mohamad took us out to buy some beer but we ended up in the local hop. 

Albert’s diary

• Derek and I were first up once again.  We drove the bus to the flat to start work.  Rob returned the bus.  We completed our day’s work.  We went back by taxi.  The evening finished with loads of people in the bus, a lad in a Landrover accompanied by five other youths, three of which were ‘birds’ showed us self made ID cards for several trades eg Life magazine photographer etc. 

Saturday 25 February 1967

Ron’s diary

• We all got up at 8.00 am with the exception of Ken who went shopping and Chris who was ill.  Without any breakfast.  We went to try and finish the painting at Mohamad’s flat.  Robin cleared the bus out.  It rained all day causing difficulties.  We suspected the paint to be watered down but it wasn’t. We had dinner of chicken salad, yoghurt and fruit. We tried to finish but the rain persisted so we left at 4.30.  Robin and I went to the newsagents to buy a magazine with our bus featured but we went to see a film called “What Did You Do In The War Daddy”.  It was great!  We met Albert and Skipper as we came out, they had seen it too.  Robin and I had a snack we were invited to a dance but I went to bed early.  We parked the bus near the dance hall.  Derek, Albert and I stayed at the bus.  The girl we met previously called and bought us a large box of apples about 1 cwt  ??

Albert’s diary

• Arrived at Mustapha’s flat at 8.45 am.  Ken went out with Richard.  The rest of us got stuck in with painting.  We finished at 4 pm owing to bad weather.  Skipper and I finished eening at the pictures “What did you do in the war, Daddy?” a comedy.  Still raining.  Went back to the bus.

Sunday 26 February 1967

Ron’s diary

• Robin and I walked round to the money exchanges to ask about Indian money.  30 rupees to the £1  ??  We were given a lift to the centre by the Aussies in a Morris Minor van.  We tried to hire a car.  We also tried to get in the harbour, but no luck without a pass.

Albert’s diary

• Got up 8.30 am.  Washed, shaved, put on suit to go to church.  Vicar never turned up.  Walked around town.  Weather much warmer now.  Went for breakfast in restaurant for a change.  Had over 100 paying visitors paying 35 piastors each to look round the bus made over £3.

Monday 27 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Was up early today.  Had a quick breakfast.  Woke Skip but he wouldn’t get up so I left for the blood bank by myself.  Meet Aussie who is travelling home. He also is parked near our bus.  Last night he said he would go to the B.B. and said he would see me there.  Once at the American B.B. we had a long wait, they were accepting ‘A’ group only that day. Aussie I believe had ‘O’.  Then they wanted my passport etc.  I had left it in the bus.  Got back to the bus for my passport and returned to the B.B. with Skip.  We waited an hour or so before they decided to take our blood.  Not before a rigid medical check.  Skip got fed up and left.  After all this I was beginning to lose my temper.  At last it was over and I got my 40 LP.  I was beginning to wonder if it was worth it.  Back at the bus everyone was smartening up as the air hostess had invited us to dinner.  Two girls arrived in a red Corvette and drove us to their flat where we met the rest of the group, about eight:  Jackie and Sandra Freeman, Margaret, Carol and Avril, her father, or step father, was my old boss at Overseas Aviation was back in 1960, Pete Hardy (small world).  Great meal.  Sat chatting till four.  Left, walked back to the bus.  Sandra offered to drive us back but it was so warm we walked.  Jackie and Sandra are sisters.  Sandra works for xxx (blanked out) Airlines, Jackie for Trans Globe (Gatwick), Avril for Kuwait Airlines.  She gave us addresses for work with Kuwait Airlines.  We didn’t walk for long before the owner of the night club ‘Kit Kat’ gave us a lift back to the bus.  Ron and I, John and Fenn, the Danes, decided at 5 o’clock we would go to the docks.  I collected my slides then we made for the dock. Walking through the town John and Fenn gave us a few lessons on how to buy a Persian carpet.  Back at the bus we decided to go to the Kit Kat club instead of the Leb. girls as they had not turned up.  Chris and Skip were already there.  They arrived just as we were leaving.  Social evening.  Richard came too.  He fortunately speaks Arabic which proved embarrassing for the girls.  Once finished at the house we went to the Kit Kat club.  Albert, Allan and Lenore were there.  Arrived late as usual.  Drinks were expensive, so were the girls.  Royal Navy made an exhibition of themselves.  Back to the bus, tired, sleep.

• Ken kisses one of the French mother’s hands.  Laugh. Young man, assumedly her lover?

Ron’s diary

• I mucked about most of the morning until 12.00 noon when we went to dinner with the air hostess.  On the way back from dinner the Kit Kat Night Club owner gave us a lift back to the bus in Merc and invited us to his night club.  We were all invited to Chris’ and Skip’s girlfriends house for supper.  We ended up there till 10.30 when we all went to the St Georges Club where we were told officers only tonight.  The girls went home and we went to the Kit Kat where we met the New Zealanders and the British Navy making right idiots of themselves.  We left at 3.00 am.  PS the Danes and Robin and I went to the carpet sales where they explained everything about them. 

Albert’s diary

• Went to Kit Kat night club – had fabulous time good cabaret.  Met English Navy I knew one lad there.  Great evening went swimming 8.30 am then finished painting flat.

Tuesday 28 February 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Up around 10.00.  It’s hot in this bus.  Derek is in great pain with his stones, uses his hot water bottle to ease the pain.  Derek is run up to the hospital for an injection and then back to the bus to sleep.  Lenore drove Derek.  Nice of the New Zealand girl to drive Derek there.  Albert went swimming.  Free medical for Derek.

Ron’s diary

• We all went to the Swedes party where the took hundreds of photos.  I left the party at about 1 am. 

Albert’s diary

• Stayed around bus most of the day.  Ron Still and I went swimming at 10.30 am.  Derek was taken ill with kidney trouble.  Later we went to a party thrown by a Swedish chap at his flat, had a great time.  John got drunk and I painted him with lipstick.  Had a good talk with bloke about different adventures.  John slept in the bus. 

February 1967 Notes

• Lebanon estimated 1,750,000 people.  Lebanon 5,440 sq km.  Most densely populated state in Middle East.

• Syria estimated 5,500,000 denizens.  Syria 113,936 sq.  Desert and arid mountains.  Green plains and orchards in the valley.  Euphrates which springs from Turkey and passes through Syrai to Iraq  and the Arabian Sea (Persian Gulf).  Majority of population live off agriculture.  Little industry.

• Yugo – Greece 4^th    Greece – Turkey 5^th

• Europe – Asia  8^th     Turkey – Syria    18^th

• Syria – Lebanon 20^th

Wednesday 01 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• Rob and I were messing about in a rock pool.  We caught a few small fish.  John who was still in a hangover was covered in lipstick and he joined us in the water.  Bob’s dog had messed all over the bus.  Ken had a moan.  Walked around town.  John saw an advert “Grand Prix” so we were going to see it, but it wasn’t this week.  John, Fenn, Rob, Albert and I went to the cinema to see Peter Sellers in “Chase The Fox”.  Chris and Skip went out with two girls nd their Morris 1100 was stolen.  They ended up in jail until the girl’s mother came to pick their passports up.  Fenn and an English fellow and I went to look for a location for a beach party.  Before we went to the cinema we took photographs of a sun setting over the sea.

Albert’s diary

• Skip and Chris were suspected of stealing a car and thrown in ‘nick’.  Ken got them out after he got their passports.  Ron Still and I got up 9 am.  Went to American hospital to sell blood.  They told us that it was not up to standard 12G?? so they didn’t want it after tramping round most of the day.  Sold blood to a back street ‘quack’ who only paid £2 4s 0d.  Went swimming for one hour at 4 pm.  Finished evening at pictures Peter Sellers in “After That Fox”  Fynn, Rob and myself slept.

Thursday 02 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• For the third day running the morning has been warm.  Sun shining.  Went to the Iran Embassy to enquire about visas.  The Iran Embassy advised we get our visas in Kuwait so we have still to get the Iraq and Iran visas.  Got the bus back to our mobile home by the sea.  It is now hot.  The sun is strong.  The bus can get very hot.  I hate to think what it will be like in Kuwait.  Skip and Fenn went to the centre of Beirut to get air filters.  Must have them before we go any further.  John and Fenn leave today for Port Said.  I think they would like to go with us.  Skip phoned the girls and found the car had been returned.  Hope to leave tomorrow for Jordan.  We have stayed in Beirut for 10 days now so off to the centre to cash some travellers cheques into Indian rupees.  The official exchange rate in India is 16 rupees to the £1.  Here in Beirut the rate can vary from 23 to 31 rupees to the £1.  I changed £5, got 150 rupees. Ron and Chris saw John and Fenn off at 5 o’clock pm for Egypt.  Albert and I missed them as we were still in the town centre.  Albert and Ron (?) as usual went swimming.  Proper sea babies.  You know they are the only two  who are clean on this bus.  Ron and Chris returned from the docks.  Then the girls turned up and collected Skip and Chris.  They went to tea.  To ease the financial situation the group have decided to smuggle whisky into Kuwait.  Kuwait is a dry state as the Moslem religion states that no Moslem shall drink, so a bottle can fetch £10 a piece.  We intend taking 24 bottles.  Should clear £200 profit all being well.  The little dog is looking much fatter and lively but it still insists on messing in the bus, much to Ken’s disgust, just because it messed on Ken’s blankets, how I don’t know, considering Ken has a top bunk.  Albert and I went for a meal, shis kebab steak.  Great.  Should be the last good meal for some time.  When we returned a Lebanese girl had called (for) the small Ron (2) Still.  Good looking girl who I met on Monday, I dare say I will not see her again, pity, I would have liked her address.  Retired 12 o’clock.

Ron’s diary

• When I got up Robin and I went to the Iran Embassy to get visas but they suggested that we get them in Kuwait.  We returned to the bus by a Beirut bus which cost us 1.20 lp ??  Return the Danish boys – (Fynn and John) – went to look round the shops for gold and Indian money etc.. 3.35 pm Chris, the two Danes and I went to the harbour to embark on their way to Port Said (Egypt)  Bob’s dog had messed in the bus which pleased Ken!!  We all had to wait till 10 pm so we all walked around the harbour all evening.  We tried to get on board the American liner “President Roosevelt”.  The chief emigration officer turned us away.  We tried to get on board the English mine sweepers, but no go.  We went on board another Panama ship, at about 8.00.  We shook hands and said goodbye.  Chris and I went back to the bus.  We then went to the Kit Kat club and then to the harbour where we tried the American ship again but the gang plank had been withdrawn.  We walked back and met some English sailors which were off the mine sweepers.  They were leaving in the morning.  We caught a taxi back to the bus. Costing 1.50 lp ??  time 3.45 am

Albert’s diary

• Got up today helped Skipper repair generator then went swimming.  Later walked round town to change money to Indian rupees as he rate was much better here.  Bought Ron a present.  Got back to bus.  Present a snake.  Wrote letters and caught up on diary etc which took five hours.  Finished writing and went for a steak with Rob.

Friday 03 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• Up reasonably early to (see) the five mine sweepers sail out parallel with the corniche, smoke billowing from their funnels.  Went swimming with Bob and Albert.  Spent most of the day spring cleaning seats, washing, carpets, everything’s laid out on the sea front.  The British Embassy across the road took a pretty dim view of this and complained.  It was just not one vehicle now for neighbours, but at least five more, Alan and Lenore’s Land Rover, Bob and his minivan. Albert buys 24 bottles of whisky to smuggle into Kuwait at Spineys.  Chris and Skip’s girlfriends helped by tidying up the beds.  Painted in white a map of the world on the back of the bus, and Bob painted England, Europe, Middle East, India, Australia in white on the right hand side.  We decided to write ‘Middle East’ in Arabic and got one of the many onlookers to write it.  He couldn’t speak English and us Arabic but we managed to explain and he rather ?sloppy then writing?  He finished his immaculate job in 2 hours only to be told he had written Tuesday.  He had misunderstood.  The gentleman who pointed this out wrote the correct characters and Bob rewrote it.  By this time there were crowds around and it was late evening.  An old bearded American passed and stopped on a Honda motor bike.  He had toured Asia and Africa on this vehicle.  Packed the whisky under the stairs.  Two air hostesses dropped round and invited us to go to a small bar for the evening, The Golden Bar.  Before we left a number of people, New Zealanders, Australians, girls and an Australian fellow came up.  They were travelling to India in an organised trip, charges £100 without accommodation or food.  Had a really great time at The Golden Bar.  Everyone was there.  Came out of The Golden Bar drunk as lords after getting reduced drinks saying we worked for BOAC.  Walked arm in arm with the girls singing ‘Mellow Yellow’.  Albert went to lift a road sign and was stopped by the police.  Quick talking Albert.  Finished up at the girls’ place for coffee.  Got back to the bus at 4.30pm.  Chris meets Alison.

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 10.30 am to see the five mine sweepers based at Malta sail out of Beirut.  I washed all my dirty clothes and hung them out to dry.  We all started giving the bus a full spring clean, it took us till mid afternoon.  Chris and Skip’s girl friend tidied up the beds and we had a visit from a fellow touring Africa and Asia on a Honda moped.  The air hostess Sandra and Jackie who will post our letters in London.  Chris and I had a shower over the road in an English wife’s house.  Albert bought the whisky and I packed it while Rob and Bob painted the map and words on the bus.  We all went to the Golden Bar including a New Zealand and Australian girl and an Australian fellow who are travelling to India in an organised party.  They were charged £100 without accommodation or food.  The air hostess and everybody was there and we all had a good time.  We went back to their flat for a chat and coffee.  We got back to the bus at 4.30 am. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke fairly early.  Bob, Rob and I went swimming.  I did at least 400 yds. After we all joined in cleaning the bus.  Richard and I went to Spineys to buy 24 bottles of whisky.  Rob painted map on back of bus.  Two air hostesses came along and visited us in the evening to go to the Golden Bar.  Met Australian girls and fellow.  They came to bar with us but left early.  Mustapha and I had enough to drink by the end of the evening. 

Saturday 04 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)   

• LEBANON TO SYRIA

• Departure today for Syria, Kuwait etc.  I decided to go off and hire some skis but decided to go after we had paid our last visit to Mustapha’s house and his father.  His father gave us 20 Lebanese pounds to help us.  Looking around at painting we had done it looked really bad.  While the bus filled up with fuel, which was hard to find as diesel vehicles are banned here, I hired my skis 3 Lebanese pounds.  One didn’t need to show your passport so I gave a fictitious number and name.  Once back at the bus Chris, Ron and Albert decided with Skip to hire skis also.

Ron’s diary

• We had breakfast which Skip made at 10 am.  The two fellows in the Citroen came and visited us and we signed each other’s book.  Ahmed came and I went to give our forwarding address to the consul.  There was a letter from Dad there.  We went to Ahmed’s house where his father gave us 20 LP (45/-).  I drove his Chevrolet there.  Chris and I went to hire some skis but I bought some swag instead.  We got back to the bus which was parked outside Richard’s house where we filled our water tanks.  We said goodbye to everybody and left about 4 pm.  We took some time in finding our way out of Beirut.  When we got out we started to climb the Pass.  The bus boiled several times and on one occasion a Ford Taurnus crashed into a centre curb while looking at us.  The snow started and we had to push the bus to get it started in three places.  We got it to the Lebanon frontier at 11.45 pm.  We passed through without much trouble and we stopped in No Man’s Land for the night. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 9 am.  Skipper had cooked breakfast.  Mustapha came at 11 am after saying goodbye Bob, the Swiss and Austrian.  We left for Mustapha’s house, his father gave us £20 Lebanese.  Left house, fill up with fuel argued about the price.  Went and tried to hire skis.  Ron and I had no luck, but Rob and Chris did.  Now 6 pm.  Left Beirut.  Travelled through Pass covered with snow.  Skipper driving.  We got stuck two times, but eventually got through.  Passed Lebanese border but stopped for the night before we got to Syrian frontier. 

Sunday 05 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• DAMASCUS (POPULATION 450,000) 2,200 feet above sea level

• Ken got up early this morning.  Makes a change, he usually lays in bed and stinks.  We had spent the night in no man’s land between Lebanon and Syria.  Once breakfast was over we motored to the Syrian border.  Reached the border at 12.45 hrs.  Ken driving.  Little trouble at the border.  It took 30 minutes to clear.  They took little interest in the bus.  Just little boys trying to sell chocolates and sweets.  It was one of these boys who grabbed our carnet from Ron Sv. after he had cleared us at the customs.  This lad then demanded 1 Syrian pound for a service.  The rule is for the boy to rush the carnet through the customs and then ask for a tip.  The customs and boys work hand and glove together.  Once on the road we motored to Damascus, just skirting the city, which was much cleaner than Aleppo.  From Damascus, still with Ken driving, we headed for Kiswe Mesmiye on this road.  Ken had a narrow shave with a lorry, a very narrow shave as the lorry was about to overtake (and) Ken didn’t throttle off and the lorry had to slip in behind us as a car was coming the other way.  At 14.15hrs I took over driving towards Mesmiye.  The road was in bad repair.  Found it was best to drive in the middle of the road and move to one side when a car or lorry came.  The Arabs were doing likewise.  Our average speed was 32 mph.  The roads were straight and flat.  Reached Dera on the outskirts of the town.  Across the road was strung a banner in Arabic, I don’t know what it said, maybe ‘Welcome to Dera’.  Well it’s not there now, I pulled it down with the bus, it was just too low.  Perhaps it said ‘Thanks for coming’. A policeman stopped me.  I tried to explain that I had been careless, great when you can’t speak Arabic.  I just pleaded ignorance and he gave up and ushered us on.  Reached the Jordan border at 4.45.  Took a good hour to clear customs.  Efficiency is a word not heard of in Jordan.  From Jordanian border we reached Amman after stopping for a meal earlier at 6.00pm.  At about 11.00 o’clock it had just stopped raining and it was very cold.  Stopped and walked around in search of Hertz there.  As we came across the first hill the bus couldn’t make it in one go, even slipping the clutch wouldn’t help, so all out and push.  Eventually we got the bus over the hill.  With a taxi showing the way we continued to wards the airport, occasionally the sky, and Amman below, would be lit up by lightning flashes.  As we climbed the next hill we spotted the New Zealanders and Americans again.  So we stopped for the rest of the night.  As the storm got worse the flashes (got) more frequent and dazzling.  Time 00.15hrs.

• B.T.C.  King Hussein Street  Rent-a-car  PO Box 305  Amman Jordan

Ron’s diary

• I awoke at 11 am.  We had breakfast and we drove into the Syrian customs.  We passed through just after 12.15 pm.  Damascus was much better than Aleppo but not up to Lebanese standards.  We had a very, very close shave with a passing lorry as Ken tried to hold him off.  He nearly hit us as he pulled in behind us.  We arrived at the frontier at 4.45 pm and it took a good hour to pass into Jordan.  We stopped at 6.00 for dinner.  We drove into Amman in late evening and after passing through the city centre looking for a Hertz car hire, we drove towards the airport.  We came across the first hill that the bus couldn’t make in one go.  After slipping the clutch a few times we got to the top and a taxi showed us the way.  There was a violent electric storm as we climbed another hill.  We saw the New Zealander and the americans, so of course we stopped for the rest of the night. 

Albert’s diary

• Got up at 10 am.  Passed through the Syrian border.  Nothing exciting happened.  Drove all day passing through Syria into Jordan.  Arrived Amman late evening.  Parked next to American and New Zealand couples for the night.

Monday 06 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• 7.30 am.  I got up and drove to the airport for a car hire.  No luck so we finished up back in a very busy town.  We parked the bus after directions from a copper. We walked us round the town looking for Hertz but we couldn’t find it.  Skip and I found an Air France office who knew where it was.  We parked the bus in their yard and they brought round for us an eight seater Chevrolet station wagon.  We were taken back to the office to sign the papers and then led out of the town towards Petra.  We disconnected the speedo and drove down a straight desert road to Petra.  On the way we saw an accident.  Crowds of Muslims were flooding the land.  We arrived at Petra 4.5 pm.  We walked to Petra, it took over an hour.  We tried to buy food at a hotel but was very expensive so we walked back.  An Arab gave us a hard boiled egg each and bread.  We drove back to Amman and Dead Sea.  We were invited to the police station for tea.  We spent a most uncomfortable night sleeping in the car.  PS  Dead Sea lowest point in the world 1298’ below sea level  ??

Albert’s diary

• Ron was first up, followed by Skip.  They drove to the airport to hire a car.  No car hire there, drove back to town after large search with policeman located car at Jordan Hotel.  After particulars we got Chev Estate, eight seater.  Parked bus in car hire yard.  Drove Chev to Petra after disconnecting speedo.  Arrived early evening at Petra saw remains of Roman ruins, left after dark.  Native gave bread and hard boiled eggs.  Drove back to Jerusalem Road.  Connected speedo.  Parked at Dead Sea for the night.

Tuesday 07 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• We all got up at 5.30 am and drove to Jerusalem and then to Bethlehem.  We went round the church that had been built in place of the stable.  We left for Jerusalem again and Mount of Olives.  We took Derek to the British Consul while Skip drove the car back and collected the bus.  Derek got worse and Skip didn’t get back till after 4 pm.  Meantime we went for a meal at a café called Matarsh, where all travellers are supposed to visit.  Skip and I went to see Israel from the top of a building.  It looked very modern.  We met the New Zealander and the Americans at 6.00 pm just as we were going to leave.  We decided to stay until morning.  PS We went to jewellers where Chris and I had a very confidential talk.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 6.30 am drove to Jerusalem straight through to Bethlehem.  Saw all the sights including skulls of first child killed in every family.  The churches smelled of incense.  Drove back to Jerusalem.  Skip and I returned Chev at 12 noon.  Went to British Embassy. Chap there heard of us.  Owner of car hire wanted us to return to his place for photographs with the bus and his cars for publicity.  We agreed but told him we would pick up the others first.  Drove the bus to Jerusalem and found Derek ill with his kidneys.  Met American and New Zealand couples.  Parked for the night.

Wednesday 08 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• We had to wait until 12.00 until Ken bought his coat.  We went to see our jeweller friend and then the Gardens of Gethsemane where Christ was buried.  We filled up with diesel and water.  We said goodbye to the New Zealander and Americans and left for the Dead Sea where we all had great fun in the water.  It was very buoyant and salty.  We took photos of the bus with the group and Goodyear sign and then made for Kuwait.  The bus boiled twice on the way to Amman.  We were invited to tea by a radio news editor from Amman Radio.  We then drove to Iraq driving in shifts all through the night.  We hit H4 ?? the first desert check at first light 5.30 am.

Albert’s diary

• Said goodbye to American and New Zealand couples.  They were going to Petra.  Had a look at the Zookes (markets).  Went to the Holy Sepulchre which was being restored.  Had the stone masons outside.  Went back to bus at YMCA.  Bought postcards.  Filled up with diesel and water and went to Dead Sea, had a swim and washed off in fresh water spring.  Then took photos for sponsors.  Headed for Amman driving all night through the desert.  After Amman towards Iraq.

Thursday 09 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• JORDAN – IRAQ

• Rutba to Ramadj (Baghdad) almost uninhabited.  310 km.

Ron’s diary

• 5.30 am we took an hour to get through customs and we drove until H3 where more checks and formalities were carried out.  We filled up with diesel and mended the exhaust which had got worse during the night.  We drove all day in shifts until we got to Baghdad 1 – 2 am.

Albert’s diary

• I was driving for the last four hours.  Arrived border 5.30 am.  I awoke the others Ken got grumpy but we are all getting used to this.  The distance between the two custom controls was about 75 – 100 mls apart.  Nothing to see now but desert and the occasional camel train, nomads and of course the pipe line that we had to follow.  We eventually arrived at Baghdad at 10.40 pm.  I was driving.  Skip was also up.  We saw the first double decker bus since we left England. 

Friday 10 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• BLACK FRIDAY

Ron’s diary

• We woke up on a cleared site in Baghdad.  We made for the Immigration Office where they issued emergency visas after sending us to get photographs.  We called at the airport first where we met a Hawker Siddley rep Mr John Lyon.  We then made for the Garden of Babylon, the seventh wonder of the world, it wasn’t very impressive.  We then made for Basra.  After 2 – 3 hrs driving we came to Hilya where the road finished.  We had to come back to Baghdad where we filled up with diesel and Rob took over.  We were driving out of Baghdad when we came to an old Dargy bridge.  Robin didn’t stop,  CRUNCH!!  We had the bus wedged under the bridge at 1 am we managed to get it out after a long struggle.  We tried all ways to get an alternative route round but there wasn’t any other way.  We ended up at a military zone at 4.15 am where we slept the night.  PS  Chris took the telephone cables down in Baghdad. 

Albert’s diary

• Skip and I were first up and went to local shops for bread.  Saw a dead dog near bus.  Went to Residence Office for visas after trying airport.  Had duplicate photos taken of passport for visa forms.  Left for Babylon on southern road.  Saw Hanging Gardens 7^th Wonder of the World.  Then continued driving towards Kuwait.  Aprox 150 mls from Baghdad.  At Hilla the road finished.  Owing to desert road conditions we had to return to Baghdad to go on alternative route 1 mile from Baghdad.  Robin hit a low bridge, tore vents from roof.  After a struggle unjammed bus and kipped for the night at army grounds. 

Saturday 11 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• We got up at 6.00 am to arrive back at the bridge where queues of traffic were already piling up.  We got a crowd of children ready to get in the bus but they wouldn’t get in, so we let the tyres down.  We got through after smoke and scuffing tyres, but we still scraped the roof.  We found we had also sheared a valve off and after changing our spare and pumping the tyres up at the garage, we drove a few miles and had another flat!  We changed this while Ken made dinner.  I did not feel up to my turn at the wheel so Skipper did it.  I went to bed while the others drove up till about 2.30 – 3 am.  Just outside of another Bailey bridge a driver of another lorry said there was a way round through the marsh, but said to wait till light.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke faced with problem of only two roads to Kuwait blocked by one unmade one with a low bridge.  We went back to the bridge, let down the tyres and managed to scrape through, but we ruined one inner tube.  After this we had quite a bit of tyre trouble in the next 24 hours.  Still we pushed on driving day and night.  About 2 am Sunday I was driving and came up against yet another Bailey bridge.  This one was completely impossible to get under.  A soldier explained that if we waited until 7 am he would show us an alternative route.  So I slept on the front seat downstairs because I would never wake up early the next day.

Sunday 12 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• IRAQ – KUWAIT

• Was awake at 05.00 hrs.  The sun was up but the cold of the morning was still apparent.  Everything was grey in colour.  At 05.15hrs a knocking was heard on the back door.  I thought it’s about time we had a letter box and bell, at least we would hear him better and he wouldn’t have to knock so hard.  Skip got up and answered the door.  It was the guard who was stationed at bridge which crossed the River Tigerus just beyond Amara.  According to Skip and Albert, who were driving last night while I slept, they had reached Amara without difficulty, once passed the town they headed due south for Basra whereupon, reaching the banks of the Tigris, were confronted by another Bailey bridge the same as the bridge we had to dramatically cross yesterday, the only difference being this one was even lower, about 2 foot.  So halt.  No question of letting the tyres down as before.  It was the guard who, with a rifle slung over one shoulder and looking more like a bandit, said he would wake us in the morning about 07.00hrs and show us an alternative route.  So at 05.00hrs, two hours early, he woke us up and instructed a lorry to show us the way.  The route took us down river, through a village where each hut was made of mud and straw, not a brick to be seen.  Passed a new, all concrete bridge, under construction, to our bridge, or should I say floating pontoon, because all it was was a group of barges equally spaced over the river.  To bridge each span were planks and covering the planks tarmac, the worst for wear.  The bus with its weight crossed on the bridge well, but each barge, as it took the weight, sank a little more than usually.  In fact the bridge looked more like a snake which waved up and down as it took the ever continuing load.  With the traffic piling up behand we had to cross quickly.  It was surprisingly busy that time in the morning.  Boys and men eager to get to work and the sun colouring the scene every second.

Ron’s diary

• I was woken up at 5.30 am.  The sun was just up and there is quite a bit of life about.  Skip was going to drive over a pontoon bridge which Chris and Rob were going to photo.  We got over the bridge without much trouble, just a little crunch on the tail end of the body work.  We reached Basra early in the morning and went through customs without much trouble.  I sat on the bonnet when Chris drove and we arrived at another customs check.  They asked for smallpox cert.  We arrived in Kuwait town at 11 am where we found the British Consul. We were lectured and I picked up two letters.  It was good news.  Dad said that my car had been settled at £590.  We met an Iraq boy who took Ken, Skip, Chris and I to see “Spartacus” at the local cinema.  He tried to get four on a moped but the police stopped us and drove him to the nick.  We finally got to bed at 2.30 am. 

Albert’s diary

• 5 am the soldier banged on the side of the bus 2 hours early.  I awoke and he showed me the way passed a village-oasis around the bridge.  Thanked soldier and continued along road.  A mile further on we went across a pontoon bridge.  Arrived Iraq – Kuwait border 9 am parked opposite Embassy on beach of Persian Gulf.  Wrote letter etc.  Met beatnik, the others went to the pictures.

Monday 13 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• HH Sheikh Subah Al Salem Al Suba, Emir of Kuwait.

• One gallon (super) petrol is sold for 60 ALS.  There is no direct water supply to many buildings (?)  in Kuwait.  The city is served by a fleet of water tankers.  The occupant then has to pay for his water requirements as need demands from these tankers.  The central filling station for the tankers, just like any other filling station for water in Kuwait, is built and run like a fuel road tanker depot.  The filling system (is) gravity fed from an overhead gantry 5 abreast.  This water is luke warm and a light brown in colour.  Will need plenty of purifying tablets before drinking.  Should by summer be very hot as the water lays stored in tanks under direct sunlight.

• Free of charge.  We just joined the line of tankers.  The enthusiasm was so good.  We got a free fill.

Ron’s diary

• I had breakfast 9.30 am and then went for a swim.  Today has been the hottest day so far.  We met two fellows in a MGB and I managed to get a drive of it for a mile or so.  It was great!!  They took me down to the customs where I had to check in.  They gave us one month to stay.  As I walked back to the bus the sun was burning my back.  We met an English man. Ken, who had been here a couple of months.  He looked like an Arab but showed us the strings a bit.  We left for Akabi the European quarter but Derek felt his stone, so we took him to Sabar Hospital instead.  We parked in the main street of Kuwait where we met plenty of people, and some who said they will try to give us work.  At about 12.0 am Derek got worse so we got our friends to call the police.  They took him to hospital again.  The Mercedes pinked badly.  We walked around a little before going to bed. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 7 am Sammy banging on the bus.  Later Skip and I went to buy bread.  Sammy and I changed £10 at the Zookes.  Rode round on his motor cycle post/o etc.  Went swimming after cleaning bus out.    Swam out to pier.  Threw Sammy in.  Rob came out later.  I swam back alone.  Sammy massaged me.  Went.  Talked to English chaps who lived with nomads. Later said goodbye to Sammy because we wanted to drive to Hamadi, the British sector of Kuwait but Derek was ill again.  So we visited hospital instead.  Parked in city centre. 

Tuesday 14 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Distillation plant.  Sea water is desalinated.  One of the first of its kind in extensive operations.

Ron’s diary

• 9.15  I got up to take Derek to hospital.  They didn’t do much for him.  We then went to register with the immigration authorities.  We then went to the airport where Rob, Chris and I tried to get jobs.  They told us to come back and see Jack Jefferies production manager at 7 – 9 am next day.  We then made for Amadi the European part of Kuwait where we met a few interested people and a reporter from the local paper “KUWAITY”.  We parked outside the British club “HABUNA” where we had to beg to get entry.  Once in we had a coke and I had two sausages, two eggs and chips 4s 6d, and Rob and Chris had steak.  We cleaned the bus up a little and we all stayed in the bus for the rest of the evening, except for a little walk just before bed at 12.30.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke early returned to hospital.  Derek had argument with doctors.  Drove to Amadi seeing oil rigs etc on the way.  Had mixed reception on arrival.  Women more friendly than men.  We were not allowed in their clubs and no other entertainment.  Whatsoever that was not governed by K.C.C.  Had newspapers come down and some people took a great interest, but kept it within themselves.  We parked in car park next to club.

Wednesday 15 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Up early about 8.30.  Very low on stores so I drove the bus down to the shops jusy 1 km away from the car park next to the British (Hubara) Club, our HQ for the moment.  Skip and Albert went shopping.  It’s a small world, we met two English housewives and one came from Westcliff on sea.  They showed us where to go for cheap food as food here is very dear.  They managed to get us all we needed cost price, even a large sack of sugar approx. 1cwt for £1.0.0.  On our way back to HQ to our surprise, 2 housewives we had seen yesterday, stopped us and gave us bread.  Very good of them.  Once back we had breakfast, eggs bacon, boy was it good.  Skip phoned up a report for Kuwaiti newspaper (K.O.C.) who took us to KOC offices for a conducted tour of the oil fields etc  There we were introduced to (blank)  who immediately took us to lunch not far away.  Great lunch, steak, uhm!. Spent an hour talking after lunch over marriage problems and the growth of Kuwait.   (Correction:  The Kuwaiti is a KOC works newspaper.  The said reporter works for KOC.)

Ron’s diary

• This morning we all got up at 8.30 am for shopping and work delegation.  While shopping we met a few English housewives, one from Southend who helped us with our shopping.  We bought 1 cwt ?? sack of sugar for £1 5s 0d.  We then phoned up the editor of the Kuwait Oil Company (K.W.C.) to take him up on his offer to show us round the oil fields.  The public relations officer picked us up in two taxis and took us to the HQ.  We were introduced and then taken to the restaurant for a steak dinner.  We then went to a film on the oil works and after a visit round the production plants and loading pier.  We were all invited round his home for a whisky after.  We stayed all evening talking about England, Egypt and Kuwait.  He introduced us to a Kuwaiti, who offered some of us work.  We had another large meal and went back to the bus 11.30 and then went to bed 12.30.  PS We had 24 cans of fruit donated to us  ??

Albert’s diary

• Skipper phoned up the newspaper bloke who had interviewed him on 14^th March 1967.  After we had been to town and replenished our food supplies.  He arranged conducted tour of oil fields, jetty, film show, dinner at some extravagant club etc.  The guide was Egyptian born called Mohami.  We had taxis everywhere we went.  This lasted complete day.  After we went to his home for drink of whisky, home made but potent.  He distilled his own 10lb sugar, 20 gll water and yeast.  Later we went to his friend’s house and had gin.  Talked about work for Ken.

Thursday 16 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Sun is hot this morning.  Temperature should be in the 80s by midday.  Water temperature about 66 degrees Fahrenheit or more.  After breakfast Chris, Ron 2 and I decided to take a swim in the club’s pool it was so hot in the bus.  With Ron 1 and Ken over (blank) place doing odd jobs, Ken cooking, Ron servicing a washing machine and Skip and Albert, I believe, attempting to gather a window cleaning round together and Derek who decided to stay in the bus and sweat.  So we spent from about 11 o’clock till 2pm in the pool or sun bathing.  It was great.  A sheer joy.  About 2 o’clock Ron joined us for a quick dip.  He’d finished the service on the washing machine.  Said to us to hurry up and get dressed as a fellow Englishman, Giles Dubois, driving a Lotus company land rover, had invited us to go down town with him.  So off we went dressed casual.  Once in Kuwait city, passing through desert shanty towns of corrugated sheet with a shining Buick or Chev parked nearby, such is Kuwait life, and passing Kuwait’s only airport, we set off for the gold suks and watch suks.

Ron’s diary

• 8.30 rise.  8.55 two English fellows came in who worked for Adis and introduced themselves.  They took Ken and I repaired a washing machine.  I left after a couple of hours and when I got back to the bus Derek said that the others were in the Habara Club swimming, so I waited until 12.30 pm when one of the English lads came and offered us a lift to Kuwait.  I went and fetched Ron, Rob and Chris from the club.  It was so inviting in the swimming pool I went in for a quick dip.  We went to Kuwait where he bought us coffee and then walked round the markets until 6 pm when we had macaroni and meat.  We then drove back to the bus.  Went to bed 12.30 am.

Albert’s diary

• Got up this morning 9 am.  Skip and I walked to shopping centre about 1 ½ miles.  Bought birthday card – (mother) – and posted it.  Saw nobody we knew, so walked back after buying socks etc ??  Ken returned from work started to write diary.  Took bus for grease up, spoke to manager about sponsorship.  He gave us free grease up, told us to return Saturday.  He would put posters on bus change oil etc for nothing.  Returned to club and caught up with diary. 

Friday 17 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Once again when I woke up the sun was hot.  9.00am. Skip had left for work.  He met a chap who wanted his Impala looked at.  We can’t look for work today as it it’s a holiday, the Arab’s weekend is Thursday and Friday.  Friday is the equivalent to our Sunday, Holy Day, and Thursday likewise Saturday.  Cleaned the bus out.  At the moment we have a dozen or more kids over the bus playing bus drivers and conductors, just like kids everywhere.  Michael, one of the kids in the pool yesterday, came round this morning and gave us 1 ½ lb of coffee and 1 lb of Ovaltine, a present from his mother.  Took the bus down to the Kuwait Oil Company compound out of town where the sailing club is.  Small club, a few dinghies, kestrals mainly, ‘x’s and OKs and one F.D.  Derek, Ron 2, Skip and Ken were not with us.  Then in turn Derek and Ron 2 had gone out in an XK150 and Skip and Ken had been invited to dinner if Ken wouldn’t mind doing the cooking.  Saw the finish of a long distance race with ‘x’s and said goodbye.  The club commodore said if we would like to come down singly we could go sailing.  Arrived back at the club (Abarara), our HQ, at 14.30 hrs.  Giles turned up in a company land rover.  I took a copy of his student card.  Hope to make some duplicates.  They will come in handy for reduced fares, admissions etc.  Ron 2 and Derek arrived back.  Derek was blind drunk.  Apparently the old American couple invited them for drinks by the beach and with his wife and some friends had some drinks.  Poor Derek can’t take his liquor.  Ron didn’t any.  At 5 Skip and Ken got home I dare say completely contented with their meal.  Giles left with a promise of a job for one of us.  At 6 o’clock Mohammed visited us and said he might be able to fix us up with jobs for 2 of us.  Perhaps Chris as a fitter and me as a normal draughtsman, still it’s work, although I would have liked something in the open.  Shall try Kuwait airways tomorrow early, there’s a good chance Ron 1 and I can get a job as air frame fitters.  Spent the rest of the evening trying to catch up with my diary.

• (Cumberland Sailing Club.  The old American couple Mr and Mrs Nash, works for flour.    Fluor co.ltd.  Mr Timothy Nash)

Ron’s diary

• We all got up about 9.00 am and then tidied the bus up.  We had loads of kids all over the bus, but one of them got a membership for the yacht club so we went there.  On the way we stopped off at a fun fair at the Unity Club.  At the beach it was blowing a force 5 – 6 where there was a race (26 miles?) just finishing.  We were bought drinks gin etc.  After we came back to our normal parking position and the English fellow who works for Otis came with his students ID card.  In the evening Ahmed brought his manager friend round to try and get Rob and Chris a job then Chris and I were signed in the club by him.  It was dead so we went for a walk and then to bed at 11.30.

Albert’s diary

• Got up at 9 am.  The bus was full of kids.  We all tidied the bus up.  Later we visited the local yacht club.  Ron 1, Rob Chris and myself.  They gave us gin and tonic, there was a race on at the time.  The feeling here was: – nice to meet you but don’t come again. – Later that evening Mohai brought a friend who interviewed Chris and Rob about employment.  Rob put on the ‘bullshit’.  We also had a visit from Giles who showed us his student ID card.

Saturday 18 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Having breakfast about 8.30.  Sun as hot as ever in the eighties.  There was a very high wind blowing this morning, so hard it was whipping the dust up and causing a dust storm.  It wasn’t so bad in Ahmadi.  Set off for Kuwait airport.  Once out on the open road the dust storm was really bad, open ground visibility was down to 40 yards, it was virtually impossible to walk. Started to thumb a car, first thumb stopped took us to the airport, Ron and I.  Visibility down to 30 yards.  Cars driving with headlights on.  Once at the airport went to Kuwait Airways hanger for  a job.  No luck.  Kuwaitis, Arabs, Europeans third.  On to Kuwait City thumbed (to) British Embassy.  At the Embassy checked for letters.  Wind had dropped, clear blue sky, calm.  Four letters, one for Albert, one for Derek, two for Chris.  No work on the Embassy vacancy list.  Took a bus to the other side of town, had a meal, then looked for work KOC Shell.  Finally at four o’clock we thumbed out of the city back to Ahmadi.  Just outside Kuwait we decided to make a detour to the city’s local car mart in the desert.  Very interesting.  The cars are lined up in the area with no prices on them.  Each small group of cars is patrolled by a seller who states prices of his various motors (?).  These prices can vary as much as 200 dinah.  You obviously have to beat them down, every Arab expects it.  As we left fresh cars were being driven in off the road by their owners, the cars are then taken by the dealers who must charge a commission on sales.  Once back at the bus we noticed how clean it looked, a wash and clean makes all the difference.  Ken was painting the wheel green with black hubs.  Generally bulling about.  Ken has got a job with Otis on Dass Island as a mechanic, would have been best suited as a cook.  Chris, Ron 2 and Derek can start with (blanked out) as gas fitters and Derek as a painter.  Just Ron, Albert and me without work, although there are still plenty of offers open over at Shuba (?).  Had a shower, did I need it, over at the Indian caretaker’s house.  The bus has had a grease up and the engine a steam clean.  The springs are suspect (rear).  Catching up with the diary.  Retired 11.30pm.

Ron’s diary

• We got up at 8.30 am and Rob and I went and hitched a lift to the airport where we tried to get jobs.  We couldn’t so we went to Kuwait where we tried the Kuwait Oil Company, Shell and a few others but we hadn’t any luck.  We went to our local café where we met our Swiss friends again.  We got another lift to the car sales and then we came back to the bus in Ahmadi.  We tried to get into the Hubara Club but we found it was closed without membership, so we jumped over the wall, it was dead inside anyway.  We took a newspaper cutting out of the library of Half a Sixpence with Tommy Steele.  Went to bed at 11.30.  PS  We all had a cold shower in the staff quarters of the club.

Albert’s diary

• Isn’t it funny how days in your life slip by and you can’t remember what the hell you done!!! 

Sunday 19 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Palm Sunday

• Up early again this morning.  Guess we are job hunting again.  Last night suggested he and I busked in Kuwait city.  Might give it a try, nothing to lose.  With Ken employed, Skip self employed yesterday working on a car, today gardening, six of us set off for Kuwait city thumbing in pairs, who would get to the British Embassy first.  Albert and Ron 2 set off first, Derek and Ron 1, Chris and myself.  We managed to get there first, one thumb in a Volkswagon Beetle, Ron and Derek second and Albert and Ron 2 third.  Good fun.  Ron 1 however cheated, they got a taxi from the city square.

Ron’s diary

• We had breakfast and then Derek, Rob, Chris, Albert, Ron and myself paired up and hitched to Kuwait.  Derek and I were second there.  We got two lifts.  The second being a truck taxi which we did not pay.  He chased us about the Embassy.  Albert and Ron had the same trouble.  We god our good conduct certs and then went to try and find jobs.  We tried Shell again and also went to BOAC for advertising on our bus.  We hitch hiked back to the air port and made enquiries about the girls from Beruit and the Kuwaiti fireman we met in Beruit.  We got a lift from a big artic. From the airport. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke about 8.30 am.  Ron 1, Chris, Rob, Ron 2, Derek and I hitched to Kuwait.  Ron 2 and I got into a taxi but did not know it was, but he never charged us anyway.  We applied at Embassy for good conduct certificates.  Later Ron and I hitched back after a ride in a police VW.  I did my washing.  A chap in a lorry gave us 10/- for the bus fare. 

Monday 20 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• We had breakfast of tomatoes on bread and coffee.  One of our friends came round and offered us a lift into Kuwait in his father’s Buick Electra, an all gadget operated car.  Albert, Rob, ron, Chris and myself went and Rob, Chris and I stayed in Kuwait, while the others went back in the car.  We walked around aimlessly for a couple of hours before hitching a lift back.  We got a lift back to the airport and then he took us on to Ahmadi, in his Chevrolet Impala.  When we got back half the American Navy was on the bus.  They took us back to their destroyer USS Beatty.  Trying to get our bus on the pier was great fun, but with the production of a health certificate and Ken who was driving wearing a navy hat we got through.  They took us over their ship and we all got a slap up dinner.  After we went to the Unity Club and played table tennis, netball and went in swimming.  We then met some English who were working as brickies on a local job.

Albert’s diary

• Hussain, a chap whose father has a Buick Electra, gave Ron, Ron 2,, Rob, Chris and myself a lift to Kuwait.  It was a good car but he wasn’t such a good driver.  Hussain, Ron and myself went shopping for shoes but bought nothing.  When we got back some Americans from a destroyer were in the bus.  They invited us back to their boat for a meal.  We drove our bus along the pier bluffing the way.  Had a terrific meal.  Finished evening at Arab Club playing basketball and some went swimming.

Tuesday 21 March 1967

(Rob’s diary – page missing)

• Ron’s diary

I got up at 10.30 had breakfast and wrote to Dad and Bristols.  We met the fellow who drove us about in the Impala as we left the bus.  He took us to Kuwait where we saw Arabian dancing and we met the director of the Serkidan Totel there.  We also saw the Sheik driving away from the area.  We looked around the gold suks and then went back to their place where we had a good meal.  We came back to the bus and the English lads from Fluar were there.  We all felt pissed off.  Then three birds came and invited us to a party at a yacht club.  Ron, Chris and Skip went.  We opened the first half bottle of whisky.  Ken bought it for £2.  ??

Albert’s diary

• Today there is nothing to do.  All of Kuwait is on holiday.  We cannot go in the clubs.  The only people that are helpful are some Indians that work in the club house.  We can use their showers, toilets and refill with water there. We are all cheesed off!! We are parked next to a taxi rank near the Habara Club.  Some lads came round who work local, but I had gone to bed.  The girls came and invited Ron 2, Chris and Skipper out to a dance at the local boat club.  

Wednesday 22 March 1967

(Rob’s diary page missing)

Ron’s diary

• Second month

• I got up and did some washing at 8.00 am we had some Sugar Frosties for breakfast.  Chris, Ron and I went for a cold shower over at the staff quarters.  Chris and I hitched into Kuwait via the airport and then by police car to the hospital, so that Chris could have a check up.  We had a meal at our usual place and then hitched back to the bus.  The driver bought our bottle of “FLASH” for 7 kd (£) ??  There were more English girls at the bus.  At 9.30 pm Chris and I hitched to the airport.  A Ford Mustang gave us a lift to the airport and then he took us to Kuwait for a meal.  After he took us back to his flat, and had a drink.  We returned to the bus at 1.30 am. 

Albert’s diary

• Got up today finding it hard to pass the time.  Chris and Ron always going off together and plotting.  After breakfast I painted more detailed destinations on the bus.  Rob painted SEEWEO on the back.  The girls came back and apologised for not inviting all of us the evening before.  Had a shower in the Indians quarters.  Had a visit from a Mr Tyler who told us to leave by Saturday.  Finished the evening moving yacht to club.  Had gin and tonic and beer at the man’s house. 

Thursday 23 March

Ron’s diary

• We got up at 9.30 am and Robin started painting the words on the bus.  Albert changed the tyres and after breakfast I went to Bish Kahlil’s house to price a job.  He made us stay to dinner and then start in the afternoon.  Derek, Skip and I started the chicken run, and the other jobs.  We had to be at the bus by six because we had been invited to dinner.  I had a quick cold shower and then new were taken to dinner by Mr and Mrs J. Watson.  We had a marvellous roast dinner and beer.  The others were messing about so I slept downstairs.  In the night Rob was sick. 

Albert’s diary

• In the morning Skip and I started to change the tyres.  Went to East Ahmadi to buy new tube. Skip had to go and do some private work. I finished the tyre alone.  Left bus on jack as we couldn’t blow up tyres.  Later had dinner with Mr and Mrs J. Watson of Chester.  Had great big meal.  Later met married couple from Chestnut Avenue, Grays.  Had lots of homemade beer.  Left three parts pissed.  Ron slept downstairs because of the noise we were making.

Friday 24 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Woke to the noise of banging.  Mr Bish (?) wanted Skip and Ron to finish some of the work wiring etc.  Eventually got up and had breakfast.  Good Friday today.  Chris suggested we go to church, so Ron, Chris and myself enquired at the Habarar Club and we got a lift to the local church just in the centre of the town.  Services were all odd.  No luck back at the bus, the bus was on blocks, the tyres were being repaired as we had got nails in the off side rear and inner.  Chris and Ron went round to Bish’s to help Skip.  Around 18.30 “the voice of doom” Mr Tyler came round to make really sure we were prepared to leave the following morning.  As we had our two wheels off he arranged to pick them up with his transport to make quite sure we left.  He drove Ken and Albert to a workshop to have the tyres blown up.  Once back we refitted the wheels and took advantage of the showers that the Indian domestic  helps had so kindly offered to us while we stayed there.  What a real nice reception we have received from the Indians, what a complete difference to the total snobbish attitude we received from these so-called countrymen English.  Now we are being hounded out of Ahamidj, leave, much to the delight of many English people here, for a place to park for the night.  Drive slowly through their small world of bungalows, wicker fences and neat roads.  Sand in small drifts along the kerbs.  Pass the shopping centre and the other swimming pool to the desert’s edge.  Point the bus towards the sea and Shieba.  Decided to park outside the K.O.C. oil refinery on the road to Shieba, an Arab town by the sea.  Settle in for a hot night.  Can see the waste oil burning brightly, silhouetted in the night sky. Fingers of fire, ice and t (?)  An image of the prospering country.

Ron’s diary

• Mr Bish banged on the window at 8.00 am and wanted Skip to go and finish the wiring.  Albert, Chris and I went round at mid-day.  We did three or four hours work and returned to the bus.  Chris and I went to the local police station to enquire about buying cars and a permit for the neutral zone.  Nothing much to do so we went to the airport where we hoped to see the girls we met in Beirut.  We saw the English and S. American instead.  We had to move our bus from the Habarh Club that night.  It was after midnight and we didn’t know where to park.  We went to the pier entrance in Shiba. 

Albert’s diary

• Awoke today and decided to go to church but couldn’t find out about services times.  We later worked on Mr Bish’s shed’s wiring etc.  About 6.30 pm had second visit from Mr Tyler who had to make sure that we would be gone by early morning.  As we had no wheels on our bus he arranged transport.  Had them picked up taken with him Ken and myself to a work shop to have them blown up.  Compressor no good.  After messing about we took them to a garage, replaced them and spent the night in the desert. 

Saturday 25 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Woke this morning to hot sun and noise of traffic passing, as on the Shieba road.  We decided to check out Kuwait first for our mail and jobs.  Our main problem is finding a permanent place to park with water for showers and toilets.  Once in this city of air conditioners, taxis and queers, we collected our mail.  Albert collected his Conduct Certificate, essential for work here.  After waiting for 1 hour what a difference there seems when you walk into the grounds of the Embassy from the city which surrounds it on three sides.  The sea completes the square.  The city does not crowd the walls of the Embassy.  There is a clearing all around, just almost white, harsh, reflecting, flat sand.  From a distance the Embassy looks like an outpost, a French legionnaire fort.  The only difference, the Union Jack flies high for all to see.  Once inside and in the office buildings to the left an air of English efficiency rings out.  On the opposite side of the courtyard lies the main offices reception centre, a half circle of steps leading to the door.  In the hall colour photographs of British achievements stand proudly (?) for all (to see?).  After our visit and back to the Arab world, we make our way to the Sheraton Hotel.  Just near here is a small café where we can get a cheap meal, macaroni pie and meat, peppers.  Still have dysentery.  Start thumbing with Ken and Albert.  A young lad stops and gives us a lift and a tour of the Kuwait college before taking us all the way back to the bus.  The bus is now parked in East Aham in the industrial area, showers and toilet opposite.  It’s the best we can do.  Cafes also.  This is the most central place we can find.  Must get work.

Ron’s diary

• We went to Kuwait in the morning looking for a job.  We went to the Embassy for letters.  In the afternoon Rob and I went to the car markets.  Then went back to the bus.  Nothing to do as usual so went to bed early.

Albert’s diary

• Hitch hiked to Kuwait.  Went to the Embassy and collected conduct certificate after waiting one hour.  Looked round town and photos taken and meal near Sheraton Hotel.  Met lad with car who gave us tour of Kuwait College, then drove us back to Ahmadi. 

Sunday 26 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Up late again.  Breakfast.  Albert and Skip went off to Bish’s house to finish his bloody pigeon coup off.  We took the bus around later, spending most of the morning round there.  Fat, ugly, rude Bish.  Albert hitch hikes to Farhaheel to buy some netting to finish the job.  The sun is getting hotter .  At the end of the afternoon who should arrive from work but the Derek, riding on the back of a motor bike wearing his new white safety helmet and carrying his newly acquired water bag.  Full of chat about the work at Fluors.  He had conned an Arab for a ride.  He reckoned that his foreman, Mike Zelman, would make him foreman over the Arabs.  Foreman painter Derek.  The motor cyclist rides off to pick up Ron Still.  He arrives back full of grins and also his new hat and water bag.  Pipe fitter Still.  Spend some time in the bus at Bish’s trying on Derek’s fibre glass hat.  Decided to move back to the East Ahamidi parking space.  OH for a shower park on the other side of the café, four in all.  The showers, we had four to choose from, were really primitive, just a piece of hose copper projecting from the wall.  The other showers had, since becoming damaged remained unused, so everyone would queue up for the one remaining usable shower in each block.  All washing of clothes was done on the floor, scrub and rub and rinse, all from one tap, and in between an Arab would butt in and clean his plate, fork and spoon.  The whole stench from the squat and aim holes drifted in spasms as a small gust of wind blew.  Spent the evening in the bus.  Then watched television Cassius Clay’s fight.  Bed as per.

Ron’s diary

• Derek and Ron started work very early.  Albert, Skip and I went round to Bish’s job.  We spent most of the morning round there, in the afternoon we met a fellow in a new Sunbeam Alpine 1795cc and he took us to Fahaheel.  What a maniac!!  Albert and I went to the harbour at Shiba and went on all the boats for food and cheap shipment to Aussie.  We tried to get work.

Albert’s diary

• Ron and I went out looking for work, hitch hiking through the desert.  Tried Fluors, Amer Ind Oil Co, etc.  Derek and Ron 2 started at Fluors today.  Ahmadi was swarming with police owing to visit by Sheik.  Ron and I visited boats on a pier by Shiba to get estimate on shipping fees.  Crew member gave us 1lb of butter and cakes.  Had ride in Cadillac, Plymouth, lorries, MG, Opal.  Saw a very bad accident.  Later Ron and I went shopping at Johnnies.

Monday 27 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Skip up early and finishes Bish’s job.  Ken starts with Otis to day.  Chris, Ron and myself go to Kuwait in the bus to check at the Embassy for our mail.  Driving from the Embassy gate over that flat ground Chris gets the bus really stuck in a sand drift.  Eventually cleared after a land rover tows us out, but not before having to run at it (with) a snatch pull which broke our head lamp arm, nearside.  Chased around looking for the carnet so Ron could clear the country, as the bus was entered on his passport.  We couldn’t find the place.  The office on the sea font said all the carnets etc had been moved to Block 4?  The carnet had been left at the border and then sent to this office on the sea front.  Block 4 was over on the other side of Kuwait.  A meal at the usual place just near the Sheraton, but not before we had met two English lads who had driven a Merc.

Ron’s diary

• Skip finished Bish’s job.  Ken started work for Otis and Rob, Chris and I took the bus into Kuwait and to the Embassy for letters.  Chris got the bus stuck in the sand.  We then had to chase around for our carnet which we still couldn’t get.  We had a meal at our usual place and then met two English boys who drove a Merc down from Germany, and sold it for £100 profit ??  We then drove about looking for our rich Kuwaiti contact for driving cars from Germany.  We got back to East Ahmadi at 6.30.  I stayed up after seeing The Great Imposter (Tony Curtis) – a very good film.  Went to bed after washing clothes 3.30.

Albert’s diary

• Today I went with Skipper to Mr Bish’s house and finished off pigeon shed.  Hitch hiked to Fahaheel to buy some wire netting to finish job and returned to East Ahmadi, later saw Cassius Clay fight on tele in nearby café.  Finished evening in bus writing diary.

Tuesday 28 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Ron Sverdloff and Chris Price depart for Germany.  Derek, Ron II, Ken off at work.  Skip’s turn to start today as chief mechanic for Otis servicing their Land Rover and Dodge vehicle fleet.  Chris and Ron are up early packing their bags preparing to go to Germany.

Ron’s diary

• Chris and I hitched a lift from a Land Rover which Ken was driving, his first day at work with Otis Co.  Left for Kuwait 10.30 after a shower at the staff quarters at Habarh.  Spent most of the day negotiating loot and work.  Hitched to Basra arriving 10 pm.

Albert’s diary

• Got up 8.30  Ron 1 and Chris washed and packed their bags for trip to Germany.  They showered at the Indians’ place then I dropped them on the Kuwait road.  They were hitching.  I then drove straight to Fluors office and Shaiba gave in my PP and £15.  Then I drove Rob to the site so he also could apply for a job.  He got one as a junior safety officer.  Later drove to town and bought supplies then cooked dinner for everyone.  Later went to see TV at Hussain’s house with Keith, Mohammed and us six. 

Wednesday 29 March 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• With Chris and Ron off to Germany yesterday and Albert now working also at Fluor everyone was up by 6.30am and off to work by 6.45am.  I got up at 8.45am, had breakfast, cleared up bus, tried to catch up with my paperwork.  Drove the bus to Ahmadi to buy bread and check with the newsagents to see if we featured in a Beirut magazine.  No luck.

Ron’s diary

• We were woken by two labourers at 5.30 and went to the immigration office in Basra.  We had to wait till 8 am.  We stayed next door in a café where we were given tea and bread.  Some Iraqi reps of a tourist co. came in and bought us a breakfast.  We got our visa by 8.20 and went to the station.  The next train to Baghdad was at 5.45 pm.  We slept on the station lawn until about 3 pm.  The fare for 400 miles to Baghdad was 710 fill each 14/2d ??  We slept on the train most of the night. 

Albert’s diary

• Today I got up at 5.15 am to start work feeling shattered.  Derek, Ron and I caught the Yellow Bus N.C.C.  I got off at Shiabi while the others stayed on to the site.  I waited for the office to open.  After 45 mins the man came and thousands of Arabs were fighting to get jobs.  My name was called.  Got into coach, drove to site.  Started work about 10 am.  Clean metal frames.  Finished work at 4 pm.  Went back to bus, went back to bed.  The rest went to cinema.

Thursday 30 March 1967

Ron’s dairy

• The train arrived Baghdad at 9.0 am after a most uncomfortable night.  We walked across to the main station and found the next train to Istanbul was at 9 pm Friday night.  There was one train to Mosul at 12 noon.  We managed to get students tickets – (at half price) – for the 350 miles.  It cost us 210 fills – (4/2d) – each.  The train arrived one hour late at 8 pm.  The Iraqi we met on the train took us to his home by horse drawn carriage.  We sat on the floor for supper of rice and tomato soup.  We went to see “Luna Queen of the Amazon” at the new cinema.   It finished at 12 we slept on the floor.  In the night the cow in the next room disturbed us. 

Albert’s diary

• Second day at work, roll on tomorrow – (day off) – today started spraying.  Foreman gave me 10/- rise to equal my pay with the others, Spraying in the wind proves very dirty.  Finished work and went back to bus.  Saw Cassius Clay fight on Indian’s TV in café, then went to bed.  Life here very dull.  As I’ve said before absolutely nowt to do.  Very boring.  Skip says that he’s going mad, I don’t blame him.  Chris and Ron had the right idea to piss off.  But on this gamble we are not financial balance enough to do it and I don’t want to lose personal money anyway.  Chris is OK he hasn’t put any money in as far as I know.

Friday 31 March 1967

Ron’s diary

• We were woken at 6.30 am by the cockerel.  We had yoghurt fresh from the cow.  We then went to the local bus area for Syria.  We caught one for 400 fills (8s ) ??  WE were astonished by the appalling condition of it.  No brakes, not much steering and generally disintegrating.  We arrived at the frontier after 2 ½ hours at 10.30.  We had to wait until 1 pm for a bus.  We were invited into somebody’s home for a meal and beer.  The bus did set out for Kamasilt, but a Land Rover took us.  The road was unmade for about 5 kls.  We arrived 5.30 pm and walked across to the Turkish frontier just before dark.  We had to wait for the barrier to open for ½ hour.  We slept in the station at Nazabin.

Albert’s diary

• As I sit in the bus just wasting life away as there is nothing to do.  I’ve done all my washing Ron 2 and I decide to go swimming but it is too far to walk.  In the evening we watched “The Untouchables” and then Mick McManus wrestling.  I then went to bed after having a good laugh about Chris.  Early to bed early to rise don’t I know???

March 1967 notes  (from Rob’s diary)

• Kuwait is the only country in the world where people are not subjected to income taxation.  Kuwait’s social, medical, educational and other public services are provided free.

• 8/3/67

• Newspaper appearances

• Al Manar paper (Jerusalem)

• Al Ihad paper (Palestine)

• 10.3.67

• Al Manar paper  (Baghdad)

• Letter to S.S.  Story covered up till 1^st April

• Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

• Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

• Republic of Iraq

• U.A.R. (Egypt)

• Syrian Arab Republic

• Republic of Lebanon

• Republic of Tunisia

• Republic of Algeria

• Kingdom of Morocco

• Trucial States (Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Sharja, Ajman, Om-Alguwain, Ras Al Khaimah)

• Emirate of Oman

• Bahrain

• Qatar

Saturday 01 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• 6 day a week work!

• So after nearly

Ron’s diary

• We got up at 5.30 after we found we had gained an hour.  We left the station for the bus to Diyarbakir it went at 8 am so we got a Thames Trader lorry to take us for 20 krush ?? to Diyarbakir.  He drove like the clappers of hell and got into a sideways drift twice.  We reached the station about 12 and the train left at 1,15 pm an express for Istanbul, which takes one day eighteen hours.  Before the train came I had to go to the bank to change our dollars.  I got back in time to have a bread and egg sandwich.  The train finally left in a frenzy of speed and maintained steady 25030 mph.  We tried to lock the door of our compartment by one of the shelf slats from the handle to the door to jam it shut.  We were still broken into by the guard and army as the train stopped at the stations.  Dirty little boys sold water by the glass which they got from the station well or tap.

Albert’s diary

• Back to work with Monday morning feeling.  Rob started today.  I was spraying all day and came home covered with spray.  Went to shops bought supplies.  Had good stew dinner Ken made.  The group seem to get along much better with only six of us, more organised and down to earth.  Ken and Skip just had a moan about the dirty breakfast things.  We are getting on each other’s ‘tits’.  Not to worry we manage to bear them with a grin – (see 6^th)

Sunday 02 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Up again at the crack of dawn, well almost.  Del, Alb and Ron 2 had left for work half an hour before, poor fools, just to go to work on the bus.  After 20 minutes of utter panic and confusion I left the bus at 06.30.  Late, oh it’s so habit forming.  My, it was warm today.  At this time in the morning you could walk with just shorts and shirt.  Started what will become a routine, my all English thumbing procedure, well tested in the UK.  Surprising enough the same lift as yesterday stopped.  Reached Fluor and Gate 1 by 07.50 just as Derek and co, after leaving 45 minutes before, arrived.  Normally the sun is bright and hot but today it’s dulled by dust and cooled by high winds.  It’s going to be an odd day for weather.  Working 6 days a week is hell, but getting up at 5 and going to bed at 3.30 it’s sacrilege.  Same routine.  The only interesting item this morning was a dismissed employee of a week ago, I found him sleeping in one of the 4 foot pipes. After his visit to security we had to throw him out.  Lunch time.  Trot excitedly for lunch.  On the menu today is Belsen Special, one egg and 1 ½ sandwiches.  Roll on dinner, at least so I thought, I would have some bananas but they had been stolen.  Spent rest of the lunch break talking stomach rumbles with Alb and Ron 2.  Towards the end of lunch break I chatted with a fellow English lad, 21, bearded, who had reached Ceylon and had to turn back through lack of funds.  He is now with Fluor, like us, earning to finance his trip to Aussie.  Derek seems to be hanging around him.  Just like him.  Coach back with the Arabs.  Ahmadi is an obscure place to get direct.  We eventually reached the pitch about 5.00 o’clock.  It takes an hour to get home after the bus goes to Shiaba then Fahaheel to return to east Ahmadi and the NCC depot.  It wouldn’t make much use if we got back early, the bus never returns from Otis’s yard until 5.30 or more, Ken and Skip finish at 5.00.  Have spent the time in the Jordanian restaurant.

Ron’s diary

• The train journey is beginning to get very tedious with more pedlars on the train.  The train arrived in Ankera at 9.00 pm where we bought two buns and milk. 

Monday 03 April 1967

Ron’s diary

• The train arrived at Istanbul 7 am where we got a ferry.  We got a coach to Edina which took three hours, the Yugoslavian coach to the frontier and through Bulgaria.  Bulgaria was far more civilised than anywhere east.  We passed through some very Swiss looking country and then stopped in Sofia for ½ hour where we met two Bulgarian boys who bought us a meal.  We left about 7 pm and drove to Nis in Yugoslavia where we arrived about 11 pm.  There we had to leave this coach and ….

Albert’s diary

• Arrived home from work and was greeted by Ken who we had met the first few days in Kuwait.  He played his guitar and sang folk songs until someone kindly put our records playing.  I went to the café for a Pepsi, Coca-Cola and St Michael’s products are banned from Kuwait.  As they have branches in Israel along with other products.  ICI was banned but they found out that they needed certain chemicals for water purifier plant.

Tuesday 04 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Left for work today without Rob he is going to try and hitch it there.  Work same as usual Derek disagreeing with everything the Arab foreman says.  Rob did journey in ½ hour.  I am getting covered in spray from the spray gun as it is windy and I’m working 40 feet up in the air on an electric crane.  Have been wondering how Ron and Chris are getting on.

Wednesday 05 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• YEH!!

Thursday 06 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Missed first bus this morning but caught relief bus.  Today is very hot.  Ron 2 doesn’t feel good.  Finished work I went to Fahaheel with my new friend Mohare and his brother Sam.  I bought a knife and brush.  Went to cinema with Mohare and saw “Bedtime Story” David Niven and Marlon Brando.  Came back 11.30 early.  Ken thumped Rob they had some disagreement about the whisky.

Friday 07 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Oh for a rest today!! Got up 9 am washed jeans, shirts and jumper, then Skip and Ken went to Otis to repair generator.  The rest of us – (4) – went to the beach in the bus.  Spent all day on the beach drying our clothes, also Rob and I swam out to a concrete island about ¼ mile out and back.  Cooked dinner back in East Ahmadi.  Chicken roast good dinner I cooked most of it.

Saturday 08 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Back to work with Monday morning feeling.  Started fresh tanks, not spraying paint but painting.  Finished work Rob and I went swimming then hitched back to bus.  I went swimming in the nude.  Drove to Mr Bish’s house and asked him for £23.10 for the work we did but he only gave us £5.  Later stole flags from post.  Finished evening about 11.30 pm.  82F.

Sunday 09 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Went to work today and painted yellow tanks.  Weather dull.  Today morale low as we have been thinking of Sundays at home.  Peter Boat, dinner times etc. Weekends away.  Oh boy! Do I feel sick when we think about it, with nothing here to do!

Monday 10 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Weather grand, working stripped to the waist.  Has been like this for last four days.  Every evening after work we go into the ATC restaurant, as the drinks and cakes are cheaper there.  It is run by Indians who appear to be very cheerful people.  I have been trying to make up my mind what trade I should turn to when I get back to the UK, I think I may try college.

Tuesday 11 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Day off today with pay.  The reason being New Hijra Year.  Mohammed Prophet, as his death was imminent, because he preached of mortal gods when everyone worshipped stone gods,  he fled from Mecca to Medina where he hid in a cave.  The day Mohammed Prophet fled from Mecca so the Hijra year starts.

Albert’s diary

• MUSLIM NEW YEARS DAY – (HIGAH) – NATIONAL HOLIDAY.  Skipper went to work on Fred’s TF.  The rest of us went to the beach, same place as before by Fluors.  Ron, Rob and myself swam out to the same concrete island as before.  Later we had a sandwich.  Cleaned out the bus.  Returned to Otis yard.  Emptied unnecessary junk there.  I stripped out spare wheel as it had gone flat again.  Rob HH to Kuwait.

Wednesday 12 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Work!  Oh my God!  How it is getting me down, that stupid Arab foreman keeps on and on.  Still I’ve had a headache all day.  I sometimes, of an evening, feel as if I work for Otis as I know so much from Ken about it, as he never stops telling everyone how he done this etc.  The waiter approached me about whisky, he said he would pay 7 kd for one.  Earlier I helped Mohare to replace an oil seal on his care N.S.R. English.

Thursday 13 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Went to work as per usual!  Rained hard and earlier had sand storm.  Went to ATC restaurant.  Washed clothes and wrote diary.  Ron 2 agreed to come with us to Australia, he has to pay in £47 first to balance the financial side with us.  Derek and Ron have gone to the cinema.  Skip and Ken have gone out with Fred, from Otis.  Rob is ironing his shirt.  Skip today repaired the fridge.  Some say ‘good old Skip’, others tell the truth ‘A Skip’.  Later we Keith, Rob and I went to Palm Beach, dancing, music, women and 7Up.  What’s gone wrong with Kuwait.

Friday 14 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Got up 7 am had shower, cooked breakfast called Rob.  Left for Kuwait.  Went to Embassy for mail but it was closed.  Visited Ken on the beach he gave us Daily Mirror one month old.  We then toured the Sookes looked at Omega watches etc.  Hitched to Fahaheel, saw my foreman who bought us a Pepsi.  Travelled back to Ahmadi.  Had dinner Derek and I washed up, then I went to bed time 10.10 pm. 

Saturday 15 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Notes:  20 dollar gold pieces for 12 kd about 34 American dollars.

• 10 tollus = 120 gram (47 kd price)

• 120 grams = 4 ½ oz

Albert’s diary

• Every evening we have a Maranda driver call on us and give us free drinks.  He doesn’t speak English but we use sign language.  We told him to say Maranda very good shit!  Off he went, pleased as punch, saying ‘Maranda very good shit’.  I don’t know how he made out with his English customers!  Derek went to the dentist they took the wrong tooth out and broke another.

Sunday 16 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• At work today, Derek and I stole the foreman’s key.  He thoughthe had lost it and got quite frantic.  He was told that Derek had hidden it in his shoes so he asked him to remove them.  Laugh! I was crying.  Still it makes a change from being miserable.

Monday 17 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Mrs Crice wrote to Ken saying Chris and Ron are back in the UK.  Chris is planning to have an operation for piles before returning.  After work I sat down and wrote letters to Jane W, Joyce and Janet.  After dinner – (roast chicken and trimmings) – Ken gave us the mail that he collected earlier from Kuwait.  I got a packet containing photos from home.  The results were quite good and I was pleased.  Also letters from Bota Less in Deal telling me of their troubles with the police.  They have been charged with larceny for breaking into cars. 

Tuesday 18 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Late for work.  Got lift to Fluors from Ahmadi with Pepsi.  Rained most of the morning.  It’s the first real downpour since we have been here.  Boy is it great to feel rain in your face again.  Pity Albert and Derek working in the open as after an hour ot so it poured cats and dogs.  Albert said they couldn’t work, just shelter.  It stopped for an hour and left puddles in the sand.  Chev pick-ups and crane churned the sand into an area of soft wet sand after one hour vehicle were making hard going.  Hot sun in the afternoon soon dry the roads, or should I say tracks.  Accident in the fab shop.  One welder was seriously electrocuted, after revival with oxygen he was ok, a little drunk though from, I imagine, an overdose of oxygen.  Stayed over till 6 o’clock writing letters.  The NCC bus dropped me at KOC main gate to Min Al Ahmadi as it was going to Fharheel.  Started thumbing.  Numerous cars ignoring.  Call (?) KOC bus as the likelihood of a lift was very remote.  To my surprise the next KOC bus with an eagle motif on the side stopped and gave me a lift to Ahmadi near the cinema.  Riding with Arabs is, as usual, quite an experience.  They seem to stare at you, for what I don’t know.  First it’s embarrassing but after a while a strong stare in their direction so makes them turn their heads.  Back in bus at 6.45.  Continued writing upstairs.  Dinner over by 8.15.  Skip and Derek went to the pictures.  Finished writing after dinner.  Went to bed about 11.30.  Tired.

• Pay day tomorrow.  Great.

• Ken paid back £5 I lent him in Jerusalem to buy a lamb’s wool coat.  Ken has not heard any more news of the coat and we are beginning to think he has been “conned”, it’s been about 6 weeks now.  It shouldn’t take this long, still they say “No news is good news”.

•  The Bedouins who live in the desert are supplied with after by police.  This of course applies to Bedos living near the police range.

Albert’s diary

• Well!  By this time I am becoming quite a pro-painter.  Rob has been taking photo-stat copies of different newspaper cuttings.  I only hope they are put to good use, sponsors etc.  It rained.  Cleaned the air for a few hours.

Wednesday 19 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• ????  Met English lad on bus after work and he told us that he met a German lad in the Kuwait blood bank, that told him that he had been raped by six Kuwaiti men the previous evening.  There are many stories of this sort of thing in Kuwait.  I and the others have met many queers here!

Thursday 20 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Finished work and Ron, Rob and myself went swimming.  After work Rob wrote to Twell etc.  I had a black drinking chocolate with Mohare.  Ken and Ron went to pictures I retired feeling dead beat because we played cricket after swimming.  Caught 6 pm bus back from Fluors. 

Friday 21 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Our only day off in the week and it rains.  All this rain, so I am told, is most unusual to say the least.  Woke about 5 oclock.  This seems to be the time I wake now.  Dozed for an hour.  I know during the night it had rained and then it began to rain again, very hard indeed.  The most I can remember was thinking, just our luck, all week brilliant sunshine, heat unbearable, just the weather for a day off.  And I just wonder if the roof leaks after my eventful night with that Bailey bridge just outside Baghdad.  Finally got up at 9.30.  Skip cooked breakfast.  If only we could have an extra day, make a nice weekend, be able to go somewhere.  Ken goes to work, time and a half, all helps the kitty.  Rest of us motored to Kuwait.  At the time I had no intention of buying a watch, I said I would wait, well, glancing at the time of my new Omega, 38 kds worth.   We decided to spend the rest of the day on the beach, well excuse for a beach, oil, tin cans, rocks, sharks, water various (?).  Swimming good you know, the water is so buoyant you can swim for great lengths at a time.  Ken, the tall 6’6” English man who lives on the beach near the P.M. palace came and joined us now with two dogs, Winnie the bitch along with a big black Sambo.  Ken’s as brown as ever and full of stories.  Didn’t stay long as Derek, fidget arse, and Skip, decided to, or should I say they would go to Ahmadi to look at girls.  Apparently they come in their coachloads just to ride around Ahmadi from Kuwait.  Drove home.  At least we enjoyed ourselves.  Small tea, washing and bed.

• This morning Skip said while he was at the dance at the army camp last night (British army) he was told of a border skirmish between Kuwait – Iraq over disputed borders dating back to 1963.  This area, Rumelah meaning in Arabic sand, is where Kuwait are drilling supposedly for water but it may be a cover for oil.  Iraq claim it is their land and with force, tanks, tried to take the drilling area.  Reported, but doubtful, one Iraqi aircraft shot down by R.A.F. Hunter, but this is all rumour, all hushed up in 24 hours, like similar cases. (20.04.67 it happened)

Albert’s diary

• Ken went to work, the rest of went to Kuwait town in the bus.  Rob bought an Omega Speedmaster watch.  This only strengthened my determination to possess one too.  I bought a pair of desert boots.  Ron 2 bought shaver, sun glasses.  After touring suks went swimming at Kuwait beach.  Met Ken etc.  Returned Ahmadi bought stores.  Wrote letter to Les and card to J. Hoare etc …

Saturday 22 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• What a way to spend a Saturday.  So to work on a Saturday here in Kuwait I call it Saturday morn blues.  Thumbing as usual.  Warm so early 6.30 no need for a jacket or anorak but I took one.  Overcast makes a pleasure to that big ball of fire.  I imagine the humidity is going to be high.  Portuguese gave me a lift this morning.  He has done so once before.  He is debating whether to go to Aussie or Canada.  His work is quantity surveyor (no difficulty there).  At work by 07.00.  Spent day on paper work.  Had no reason to go into field.  Left work 16.00.  Caught N.C.C. bus which went to Shuiba with a difference, it stopped on the outskirts.  Bloody rough ride.  Weather odd today, can’t put a finger on it.  Decided to have my watch strap adjusted so that meant going to Kuwait.  Difficulty on the thumb.  Weather like English weather, very close.  Visibility reasonable, couldn’t see horizon.  Motoring alone my thoughts wander.  Scenery like some part of England, the visibility hiding mountains in the distance or green hills.  Then I look at some K.O.C. oil tanks and snap my day dream ended. Just desert sand.  Eventually arrived in Kuwait.  It took 5 mins to adjust the strap.  On the thumb back, what a performance.  Got lost, had to use the moon as a guide, even then I wasn’t sure, which road should I take, all signposts at roundabout in Arabic.  Taxis stopped, van also, all wanted money.  No thanks.  Finally a taxi driver set me on the right road.  Walked 3 mile or so.  Then another taxi stopped.  I explained no Dinah in broken English. He said ‘ Everything that’s OK’.  He dropped me at the police station on the Ahmadi road just outside the KOC main works compound.  You know I was on the main road to Ahmadi about 5 miles from Kuwait airport and I didn’t recognise where I was.  Walked from police station to E. Ahmadi.  Back at the bus lunch had been over since 6.00 it was now 8.30.  Had shower.  Just relaxed for the rest of the evening.  Heard football results, Arsenal drew away to Notts Co.  Went to bed at 23.00.  Exceptionally tired.  Its getting humid now, even at night.  Humidity today was 86,  temp 72 degrees F.

Albert’s diary entry (Saturday 23 April)

• I am sorry Diary but I can only say that Monday Morning feeling again!  You can see how this place is getting a grip on me.  I’m even talking to my Diary!  Finished work only to help Ken with dinner.  Went to bed 8.10pm.  Arose following morning 5.a.m.

Sunday 23 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• 3 MONTHS ON THE ROAD     Kuwait.  Mina. Al. Ahmadi 81, humidity 66

• Up early this morning.  Good old Albert gave us all a shout (Alarm Clock Albert).  Ken was up before me today, wonders never cease, ha ha.  No bread, no breakfast.  Wander over to the A.T.C. for breakfast.  So much activity so early it takes time to adjust.  Blurr-ed eyed.  Order breakfast.  Chi, one egg sandwich.  After wolfing that down, more chi and one pancake.  It was interesting watching groups of people, Indians, Palestine, Arabs etc.  Left for work.  Pepsi gave me a lift to Fluor.  Work went quickly.  Talked in between work of small skirmish with Iraq.  Some of these Iraqis are really proud of their country, but I guess we are the same when we get down to it.  Iraq seems to be divided, Muslims fight Christians.  Revolt after revolt.  Things went from bad to worse since Britain pulled out.  Weather hot, little cloud.  Lunch Arab bread, marmalade, egg, cheese, one orange.  Flies.  Bloody things get everywhere.  They lay on your food and won’t move unless you brush vigorously.  You have to watch how you eat in case you swallow a fly with your bite.  Sand is also a problem, not from the ground but the sand you find in the Arabic bread baked in.  Work over caught bus for Fharhiel.  Albert, Ron and I decided to shop in the town for jeans etc.  Didn’t buy a thing.  Thumbed home in East Ahmadi.  Today is three months to date since we left the UK on that cold wet day.  Must try and contact Bader Al Sinan so as we can give some blood.  Dinner over by 8.00.  Remainder of evening spent writing.  In bed by 11.00.  So ends a Sunday.  What a way, like Saturday, to spend Sunday.  It’s odd but every time Friday evening, all day Saturday and Sunday roll along we all wander back to the UK.  What are they doing now, thinking in terms of 3 hrs back.  Friday getting ready to go out local, Sunday roast dinner and of course good old Sunday lay in.  Roll on Aussie and civilisation.  We have got to stay in Kuwait three months before we move on.  Just three months is the time we have spent so far!  Goodnight.

Albert’s diary

• I had a chat with Mike Selman about my rise.  I am to get it the following fortnight as it is a two week working basic.  Once again thinking of new potatoes, roast lamb and mint, dinner time, drinking etc.  Finished work and stayed on coach to Fahaheel to buy some jeans, without success.  We had bangers and mash for dinner.  Rounded off the day by washing up and writing diary. 

Monday 24 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Work as usual.  Started 07.00hrs.  Workers in the morning were passing through the office to a bus going to Ahmedi to administration centre.  About 40 men requested to go to receive a smallpox vaccination .  You see there has been a small pox out break in Kuwait City.  Five cases have been reported so far.  No doubt there will be more before they can control the outbreak.  We will see.  Same old diet at lunch time, Arab bread, cheese, egg and an orange.  Of course flies and sand for seconds.  Sun bathed for the rest of the lunch hour.  The afternoon went just as quickly.  Caught bus home.  Once at Ahmadi to our amazement the bus was already there on its usual pitch next to the scrapped RAF petrol bowser.  Dinner over early as Ken, Ron, Derek and Skip were going to the pictures.  The cinema is only about a quarter of a mile away.  You can see the building from the bus.  Had a shower.  Did all my washing.  With the bus back so early we all caught up with odds and ends.  Heard on the Kuwait radio news of Greece’s upheaval dated Friday 21^st.  Small upset in the house tonight over spilt gravy.  Should blow over by the morning.  Skip would keep any gravy in a saucepan that was left over after a meal.  This particular time Ken had made more gravy than usual.  Skip saved it.  Has some obsession for gravy.  Well it spilt all over the sugar and spaghetti sticks and plenty more, a real mess, all over the floor.  Skip wouldn’t clean it up and Ken lost his temper.  Raved on.  Skip moved out to avoid Ken’s ranting.  I must admit he does go on.  Skip went to the pictures just ½ mile away.  Ken followed 10 mins later, storming down the road.  We’re just one happy family.  Home sweet home.  Goodnight.

• Smallpox outbreak in Kuwait city (Possible date)

Albert’s diary

• After work drove to Ahmadi shopping centre.  Everyone is talking about when summer starts. Shops, cafes etc are busily installing air conditioning units.  I bought book on Maths, very simple book for 500 fils = 10/- – but it is a start.  My latest craze is going to college for one year to study Maths foe GCE levels.  It will be interesting to see what 1969 holds in store.

Tuesday 25 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Ron (Irish) Still and I are immunised against smallpox.

Albert’s diary

• Ron, Rob and I decided to go all night fishing Thursday.  We asked the others, only Derek agreed to come.  The temp is steadily climbing.  Derek got some salt tablets and Rob also a dispenser.  They started to come in handy already as we are beginning to sweat.  A lot.  Ken tends to talk a lot about Otis and we are a little tired of it.  He hopes to go to Das Island soon.  Ken and Skip flew to Abudabi owing to work permit formality. 

Wednesday 26 April 1967

Albert’s diary

• Finished work went to Fahaheel.  Bought jeans and got quote on water tanks £4 each special made.  Had a lift back in lorry straight to the bus.  Bought fishing hooks.  Saw a tele, tape recorder.  Saw a cracking looking European girl in a red 1100.  She could not give us a lift as she was turning round on a dual carriageway.  We crossed over and started to hitch hike in opposite direction.  She laughed.

Thursday 27 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Smallpox outbreak getting worse

Albert’s diary

• Arrived home from work, washed working clothes.  Rob and Ron went to Fahaheel to buy the bait for the big night fishing.  Ken drove us to the beach where we lit a fire had a sandwich made ourselves comfortable.  For one hour we said, but nobody got up until sunrise.  The following morning.  So much for our enthusiastic all night fishing. 

Friday 28 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Day spent fishing off the German pier.  Sun burnt.

Albert’s diary

• Got up 5.30 after spending the night on the beach.  The fire was still alight.  Had breakfast and ventured onto the German pier ready for a day’s fishing.  I caught the first thing about 11 am but only fit for bait 3 ins long.  We are all sun bathing only to regret it later.  Saw many large fish in water.  Rob did eventually catch one, a large true cup winner.  Hitched back to ATC arrived 6 pm.  Bus arrived 11.30 pm.  I was sleeping on the ground.

Saturday 29 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Letters from home.  Albert and fat Derek sell blood.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 5 am but was too sore to go to work.  Derek was the same so we done the shopping and bought chocs for Mrs Watson.  Drove to Kuwait collected mail and sold our blood for £10.  Met officer from Kohistan ship.  They invited us back for a meal and a drink also a Swiss lad that they thought was with us.  They offered to mend our record player and for us to collect the next day.  Had trouble leaving docks this made us late back to Ahmadi but all was well.

Sunday 30 April 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Visit to a UK boat in Kuwait Dock.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 5 am.  Went to work. After work we all washed and changed early.  Drove to Kuwait had meal in docks.  Went on boat Kohistan to collect record player.  Had beers left 2.20 am.  Half cut.  Ken got us lost on way home.  Asked me to drive as he was falling asleep.  Found out I was on wrong road it took three hours to arrive back at Ahmadi normally 1 hr. 

Monday 01 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• It was an odd morning this morning.  You see we all got about 3 hrs sleep each.  I’ll explain.  After Ken, Alb and myself left the ship we walked this was about 2.30 hours in the morning across the dock area me clutching our useless record player towards the gate and our bus.  There was no moon but a few stars.  The main gate presented a problem getting the record player passed the gate.  We need have no worry they were all asleep everyone.  We just tiptoed under the barrier and to our bus.  If we had attempted smuggling whisky the chances were they would have been wide awake.  Once in the bus I went to bed.  Alb stayed up and Ken drove.  Albert directed Ken on the road to Ahmadi and then dropped off to sleep.  The trip should have taken approx. 1.25 hrs.  At 4.00 hrs we were still moving.  Half asleep I peered out of the window above my bunk.  I couldn’t recognise where we were it was completely new to me.  What I did recognize was Alb walking to a far off group of buildings to ask the way.  Eventually after a complete tour of Kuwait twice and a long ride to the Iraq border we arrived back at our pitch at 05.45 just in time, after getting no sleep, to go to work.  Alb poor fellow dog tired with Ron and Derek staggered to the bus.  I tried to grab some sleep to no avail.  I just got up at 07.00 hrs missed my lift and suffering from the runs, hungry, damn working, have a good breakfast and go to Kuwait to sell some blood.  At 07.30 after enjoying a great breakfast I went to go to Kuwait, only to see the bus had not gone.  Found Skipper sound O and Ken dead to the world.  Drove the bus into Otis’s yard.  That would wake them up.  At 08.30 they got up, only to sleep, Skip under a Land Rover, spanner in one hand and Ken on a bench in the lock up (tool shed).  Eventually got to Kuwait only to be refused, they don’t want ‘A neg’ too common.  Lucky Albert and Fatman each 10kd better off.  Back at work, made excuses, just in time for lunch.

Albert’s diary

• Rob heard from Embassy that Ron was in Istanbul awaiting £20 from us.  Arrived back at Ahmadi at 5.30 am after driving back.  Washed, changed and went to toilet.  Caught bus to work at 6 am.  Walking around half asleep at work the day dragging by.  Eventually finished work and fell asleep on bus on my way home.  Went to bed only to get up and have a shower and dinner.  Rob, Ron 2 and Derek collected their work permits.  Temp today 106F.

Tuesday 02 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Up early this morning 06.00 hrs.  To my surprise Albert, Derek and Ron had not ledt for work.  Ron, the alarm clock of the three, bless him, had overslept.  They eventually got to work early thumbing, Derek and Ron together and Albert along with me.  The sun today was very hot 104oF in the sun and 98oF in the shade.  I was glad to get back home and I was working in an office air conditioned not like Albert and Derek out in the heat all day.  Every dinner time as the hooter blasts away high in Area O2 we sit down under the half paint tin fans, on drums of paint on cardboard sheets to eat.  Almost like clockwork the subject turns to the weather.  It’s hot.  What’s it going to be like when summer’s here. We sweat now. If the Arabs can take it so can we. Still we all can go swimming in the sea just ¼ mile from the site.  Albert especially is suffering from Ken’s navigation exercise, he finished the dinner break sleeping.  Fatman always sleeps.  In fact so does Ron.  Normally I join them.  We are a source of amusement to the Arabs.  Some of them I am sure are quite round the bend.

Albert’s diary

• Finished work today.  Fred came round.  His engine had gone wrong.  Had salad dinner.  After shower feeling better today after good night’s kip.  This morning on overslept and we all hitch hiked to work.  Ken went to Kuwait in the evening to forward money to Ron in Istanbul.  Derek and I had smallpox vacs?  The temp was 108F today.

Wednesday 03 May 1967

Albert’s diary

• After work travelled to suks.  Bought large box of potatoes two day’s supply of food.  Went upstairs.  Wrote diary until 10 pm in between short kips had dinner washing up then retired.  The foreman went home feeling ill.  Poor so and so!  I think he is quite genuine though I have to practice drinking from water bottles without my mouth touching it, as the Arabs don’t like this.

Thursday 04 May 1967

Albert’s diary

• Rob came over to ask me if I was going fishing this weekend.  The Arab foreman stuck his nose in and Rob gave him a ‘bollocking’ for not wearing his hat.  This shut him up.  We decided not to go.  We are expecting Ron back in one week.  I was going to catch up on some work but never had time, as I fell asleep.

Friday 05 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ron returns with CJ

• Ron returns with an addition, Colin Jarret.

Albert’s diary

• Awoke 4 am Ron 1 banging on the door, he had Colin Jarrett with him.  He also had a 1960 Humber Sceptre, he bought before leaving the UK.  Left hand drive for £300.  He told us that he also had our Honda generator but had to leave it in the Lebanon  as deposit with Richard’s father for 100 LP.  He did not receive our £20 before leaving.  Ian Harrington had stolen the generator, it had gone wrong and he took it to E Ham to get it repaired where Ron and Colin collected it and paid £17.10s.0d for the repairs. 

Saturday 06 May 1967

Albert’s diary

• Ron 1 today went to Embassy to see chap that he had sold the Humber to the day before at a car auction in Kuwait.  But the dealing was held up because Ron was not a resident.  He returned disappointed.  The chap that wanted the car was still interested though – (£400 price0 – After work Americans came round.  We exchanged jokes.  Colin is in good humour.  Although I don’t like the way which he joined the group.  We should have been consulted first.  He also had no money.  Very little anyway. 

Sunday 07 May 1967

Albert’s diary

• This morning we had a true thunder storm.  It was that heavy and dark, cars had to drive with headlights on.  In the confusion Derek, Ron and I got on the American’s coach by mistake.  A few sarky comments were made.  The Arab foreman refused to speak to me, as he says I joke too much.  All the others have gone to the pictures but I am going to study.  Goodnight.

Finish of Albert’s day to day diary. 

Monday 08 May 1967

Albert’s diary

The following additions to Albert’s diary (08 May – 24May) were “made from 15^th September 1967 and possibly could not be a day to day recollection of the previous events.  Although the days and date have been inserted they are only a rough guide to the next seventeen days”  …

• Dear diary

• The date today is 15 September 1967.  I shall try to recapture my happenings to date.  The last few days in Kuwait nothing exciting happened.  I said goodbye to working friend Mark Zelman etc.  On Thursday evening we had dinner at Fahaheel with English couple plus some English and Kuwaiti friends of theirs. 

Tuesday 09 May 1967

Albert’s diary (from recollection)

• On the eve of Ron’s and my departure Ken smacked Derek over a small trifle matter which I cannot recall now.  This made everybody feel on edge and I don’t think anybody thought Ken was just in taking his action this far.  The following day Ron and I went to Kuwait and finished the deal with the Jordanians for the Humber Sceptre.  After settling with insurance and number plates etc. 

Wednesday 10 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection –  really 16 May – see Rob’s diary)

• We went to Iraq Embassy to collect our passports.  We caught the bus back to the town centre where we booked upon a coach to Basra in Iraq.  We had two hours to kill so we went down to the suks where Ron bought a Seiko automatic watch, plus we bought 400 cigs each at 8 / 6 per 200.  Also some Pepsi Colas for the journey to Basra from the Pepsi shop.

Thursday 11 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Invite to dinner in the evening Mr and Mrs Cheeseman (Carol).

Albert’s diary  (date from recollection)

• We had to run like mad to catch the coach.  The temp at this time was 112oF and by the time we reached the coach they were just removing our bags from the roof rack.  They put them back and gave us a ‘bollocking’ for being late.

Friday 12 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• HOME PRIDE FLOUR GRADERS

• Day off and how to make the most of it.  Today after poor visibility last night, mild sand storms the weather is considerably better.  Up at 0900 hrs must do as much as possible today.  Waited for Badar Al Sinan, a Kuwaiti I met one day while thumbing.  He invited Ron 2 and I for a day on the beach.  He hadn’t turned up so I drove the bus and contents towards his flat in Fahaheel in the hope we might see him.  Once  at Fahaheel we parked by the sea.  Sleeping in the bus is now getting quite unbearable you can find oneself lying in a pool of sweat.  The humidity is terrific.  Even with all the windows open the heat is bad.  The summer with no AC is going to be a problem.  Those who were up went for a quick dip,  Rons 1 and 2, Derek, Colin, Skip and myself.    The water was refreshing.  Badar arrived at the bus when I had finished swimming.  So Ron and I went with him and a friend towards the new beach.  Pitched tent and spent the day swimming and eating.  Had steaks with onions and tomatoes cooked on hot charcoals very good indeed.  The weather great.  Sun hot.  I hope as Badar promised that he could get a sheepskin jacket home for Marad (?)  I’ll wait and see.  Also he promised to make an appointment for me to give blood, boy I could do with the 10 dinah.  Got back to the bus at 5.30 after Badar had shown us where we can get some pearls, yes pearls.  Should be interesting when I go.  Back at the bus we had tea and settled for a quiet evening.  At 10.00 went over to the ATC for a Pepsi.  As their tele had broken down we moved to another café seats outside began to see Gideon’s Way, when a sand storm rose blotted out everything.    Rushed back to the bus to find Albert frantically shutting all windows.  The interior of the bus was filled with dust.  Made us all cough.  The dust was coming everywhere any small crack.  We busily blocked all holes to not much avail.  All our hair was choked in dust.  Spent a very uncomfortable night sweating and choking with fine dust.  The storm went on for about 3 hrs until 2.30 am.

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• We travelled to Kuwait – Iraq border.  It all came back to me of when Ken got us lost on the 30^th April.  Arrived Basra 11 pm.  Went to booking office which to my surprise was swarming with rats running in tribes.  Nobody took the slightest bit of notice of them.  I began to itch.  We made enquiries about coaches for the following day to Baghdad and Beirut.

Saturday 13 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• We asked the manager where we could buy a beer.  He said he would show us as he fancied one too.  It  just happened to be next door in the same building.  Anyway we drunk beer and he drunk Arak with ice and water.  He bought us more beer and then ordered shish kebab garnished with tomatoes.  Anyway we started to drink Arak as beers cost 7 /- each.  The guy was queer we think but he never made any passes!!!

Sunday 14 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• We checked into a hotel at 3/- a night.  I was going to sleep when Ron was sick.  I got up and got water for him but the floor was covered in sick by the time I returned.  The following morning we saw the queer manager who gave us 10/- each reduction on our fares, as we told him we were students.

Monday 15 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• Once on the coach to Baghdad we heard some familiar sounding music, it was the Lebanese Arab who had been working in Kuwait and had bought a portable record player and two Arabic records, before returning to Lebanon.  Anyway he travelled with us across the desert to Baghdad where we had to change coaches.

Tuesday 16 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ron departs once again for the UK along with Albert.

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• We shared a taxi with the Lebanese Arab from one coach station to the next to change coaches.  He was still playing his records all two of them.  Our next coach was an articulated Pullman with a toilet at the NSR which we had not noticed was leaking and urine was running right down the side of the coach where we were sitting.  The temp was still around 100oF and the journey across the desert was far from pleasant with the strong smell of urine.  Our Lebanese friend was still playing all four sides of his two Arabic records, and to top it all, I had flea bites that I must have got in Baghdad.

Wednesday 17 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

About 36 hours later we arrived in Jordan at a place called Magfrag where we learnt that that the coach was going to Aman and not Beirut as we had been told.  So we left the coach in Magfrag and arranged to go by taxi to Damascus of which the coach driver paid half the fare,  We had about 15 to kill before the taxi was due to leave.  So we had a beer and sandwich while we waited. 

Thursday 18 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Badar pays a visit in the evening to the bus.  Promises to deliver by a friend or personally my sheepskin.  Take bus to beach just outside Fahaheel.  Received a letter from Bristols donation of £50 sterling.

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• It was there we met a 71 year old gentleman who originated from Hereford in Wales.  We exchanged tales.  He had been stationed here in WW1 and again in WW2.  He had since taken a Muslim wife and lived there from the end of the war and was very popular among local natives.  In the taxi, waiting for it, was the music mad Lebanese Arab, still playing those flaming records.  That had woke me up at 4 o’clock that morning on the coach it was now 5.30 pm.  He was going to share the taxi to Damascus with us ‘OH NO!’.

Friday 19 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Spend day on beach just outside Carol’s house or rather bungalow (Carol Cheeseman)

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• Clear frontier OK.  Arrived Damascus about 12 midnight changed taxis, Lebanese man was going to wait to morning for coach, thank God!!  That was the last time we saw him although the music of his records still rings in my ears.  Today we arrived at American university in Beirut about 2 am.  It all came back to us how we used to climb those 400 plus steps from the Corniche to go to the town.  Looked along sea front to see if we could find Bob parked in his minivan without success.  Kipped down for the night under fisherman’s nets on beach. 

Saturday 20 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Full scale fight in Area 06 between Aran and Somali.  One man seriously injured.

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• Awoke next morning to sound of wireless from fishermans.  At 6.30 we went to local café that Bob used and left message that we were in town and wanted to see him.  About 9 am we went to gate man at Richard’s residence to phone through that we were in town.  He got up and saw us although he had an engagement and had to leave at 10 am.  Ron and I decided to go swimming to wash away some of the perspiration from the coach journey.  The water was beautiful no fear of sharks, like in Kuwait.

Sunday 21 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• Just as we climbed the sea wall opposite the British Embassy Bob was getting out of his minivan to greet us, as this was the place we used to stay with the bus while in Beirut.  Ron owed Bob some money he had borrowed on his last trip to give to Richard   …

Monday 22 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Day off sick with pay.  Sold blood.

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• … back with Humber Sceptre with Colin Jarrett.  Bob was most helpful.  We went first to get something to eat.  He told us he had a rent free flat in the house of some Armenian friends on the far side of town.  We tried to get a cheap flight from the airport in a freight plane back to Europe without success.  From the airport we went to the docks to try to get a cheap fare to Italy, France or somewhere along that coast to cut out Syria, Turkey, Yugoslavia etc as this would be the slowest part of our journey.  Later we joined up with Richard who told us he had seen many gun boats in the Mediterranean patrolling the coast because of the Arab Israeli troubles.  However we heard nothing of them it was kept quiet in Arabic papers and radio.

Tuesday 23 May 1967

Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• That night we got the Lebanese people’s permission that Bob was staying with to share his flat for the night.  Bob first had to apologise to them for going away to the Cedars for a few days without telling them.  His flat was in the slum area and was built entirely of wood on the roof of an existing house on the mountain side overlooking a large valley with the mountain disappearing in the distance on the far side.  However it was very clean and far better than the beach. 

Wednesday 24 May 1967

 Albert’s diary (date from recollection)

• The next day we went back to the docks to see if there were any new ships in.  There was!  But none going to a convenient disembarking place for us.  We found out that one could get a twice weekly train from Beirut to Istanbul as we had no success with boat or planes.  We decided to go and find out about it, at 6 pm that evening to find that the train left at 6.30 the same evening.  As we had our bags in Bob’s minivan there was no reason why we could not go immediately.  I tore my driving license up to use it as a student card.  Ron already had a forged one.

Thursday 25 May 1967

Friday 26 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Day spent skin diving off  Fluors  jetty.

Saturday 27 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Skip leaves KT.

• Skipper leaves the bus to go to Germany with an American Fred who also worked at Otis.

Sunday 28 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Pictures IBI Club.  Alfie.  Bad attack of stomach ache late that evening.

Monday 29 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Morale low in the bus mainly due to the intense heat.

Tuesday 30 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Israel.  Crisis now becoming serious.

Wednesday 31 May 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

May 1967 notes

• The old city wall can still be seen in places.  Some of the existing wall is evident by the sea near the British Embassy 80 yrs old.

Sunday 04 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Transfer to Pencol all being well.

Monday 05 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• 06.00 Israel at war with U.A.R.

• Kuwait Ahmadi

• From radio reports Israel bombed Cairo and Egypt counter attacked.  The war has begun.

Tuesday 06 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Derek leaves KT for Aussie

• Derek flies out to Aussie via Tehran, Saigon, Manila

Saturday 10 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Colin flies out to India, Bombay.  He seems to attract trouble.  It is just as well he has gone.  Left with Stuart.  He had also worked at Fluors.  Made a real bomb.  Joined Fluors in the early stages of development and after a while became a G.F. 6kd a day some wage 36kd a week.  I believe he saved nearly £400.  Colin had approx. £35.  He borrowed the rest of the money for his air fare from Stuart.  Well that’s the last Stuart will see of his money, £64 air fare Kuwait – Bombay.  Now there are just he two of us left in the bus Ron Still and myself.

Sunday 11 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Israel victory.  Ceasefire 15.00 hrs.

Monday 12 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Deadline.  Carnet for the bus to stay in Kuwait expires.

Tuesday 13 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Evacuation of the bus evening at last, it is so unbearable.  Moved into a five room flat with Mike Turner a Pencol employee.

Tuesday 20 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Mohamed’s birthday.  One day off.  Chasing goats.  Stupid animals around on the flat’s roof top.

Thursday 22 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Beginning of the Shamals (Northerleys)  Sand and dust.

Friday 23 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Day off.  Shamal really bad.

Sunday 26 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Cholera injection Fluors clinic

Wednesday 28 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Kitty deadline for the bus.  From here on I’ll be rich well almost you can’t expect too much on Fluors payroll.  End of the Shamals.

Friday 30 June 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Our day off again.

• June 1967 notes

• Personal insurance expires 22 July Travel and luggage

Thursday 20 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ken turns up late.  Brings kitty round.  Cheers Ken see you in 6 wks time off to Dass  lucky fellow tomorrow.

Friday 21 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ken leaves for Dass evening 21.30hrs late

• Friday once again.  Sunshine complete.  Keith came round to the flat.  We all went to Schrinbergers beach near the neutral zone.  Skin diving.

Saturday 22 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• (Personal travel insurance expires.)

• Humidity worse today 87%  100% is rain and total saturation.  Woke this morning early as usual just damp wringing wet.  Slept out on the roof as the power failure as usual had made the AC just an ornament.  I wonder and so did Ron if it would be better to suffer the heat and no AC than rheumatism and damp when and it’s when the AC is working on a humid day the atmosphere damp and sticky is evident in large puddles of water as the air damp is separated by the AC and dry air is pumped into the room.

Sunday 23 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• More frequent power failures.  Humidity and very bad Kuwaiti management!  Mike Turner takes to a bath with a book to keep cool.

Friday 28 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• End of luxury back to the bedo’s life.

Saturday 29 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Photos taken at Fluors.  Must be careful.  Martial law!  All industrial sites etc photography is prohibited.

Monday 31 July 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Trouble with Devers over further photos taken on Fluors site.

Friday 04 August 1967

Ron’s diary

• Hitch hiked from the motorway café on the M2 to Lympne.  Skip and I sent Albert off in the first lorry that offered.  We passed Albert as he walked through Canterbury.  We arrived first at about 11 am followed by Albert about 1 hour later.  Chris and Maureen were both on duty.  We went up into the control and spoke to Chris.  Maureen took our money out of the country – (sterling restrictions) – for us on the 1.30 pm flight and we followed on the 1.45 pm.  We had to wait for Maureen to return as she had already flown back and we couldn’t find who she had left our money with.  We finally caught a coach to Paris.  We had a beer and then with a guide from Skyways we went to Bois Coulbes – (suburb of Paris) – to see the girls but they weren’t there.  We then got a train to Strasburg.  We had to sleep on the floor and the ticket inspector tried to charge us double for not having bought a ticket on the station. 

Wednesday 09 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• With the war between Israel and the U.A.R. gold which sold for 47kd has risen to 50kd and possibly 52kd.

Thursday 10 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• R.J.C. birthday

Friday 11 August 1967

• Yet another day off.  Find excuse to use the Nikon Fth.

Monday 14 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• K.G.W. birthday        Booze up at Pencoles what a laugh (hic)

Wednesday 11 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Sent 11.500kd to Richard Bridgewood for the generator.

Monday 21 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Collected 20kd owning B.E. deposited on 3^rd May 1967.

Friday 25 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Day off as usual.  Thinking of a choice piece of tourist propaganda which read quote “Citizens go out on picnics to the neighbouring countryside and spend wonderful times amid blooming nature.”  If only they knew.

Saturday 26 August 1967

Ron’s diary

• I got up at 7.30 am.  Albert, Skip and Janet were still in bed.  I went to send Steve and Diana a telegram.  I posted a card to the French girls, and went back to the hotel.  The others were just getting up.  We went to the Embassy to see if there was any news from the others.  There wasn’t.  We then went to put an advert into the local paper KEYHARN.  We then went to the Afghanistan and Pakistani Embassies for information on roads.  We came back to our hotel for our afternoon siesta.   We went to the cinema in the evening to see “The Phantom of the Opera” a good film.

• HERE ENDETH THE EPIC

Thursday 31 August 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ken’s return 18.00hrs.  Full of Dass and all that good living.

Monday 04 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• EXIT KUWAIT

• Leave KT at last 23.00 hrs for Iraq.  Clear border formalities and spend last night in KT.

Tuesday 05 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Kuwait – Iraq

• Iraq – Iran

Thursday 07 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s) 

• Spent an excellent night in comparison with some nights in Kuwait.  Slept on the long front seat until 07.00 hrs.  It’s a pleasure to be cool and not sweating to see the sun blazing down relentlessly.  Twiggy and I have temporarily kicked the dysentery, I say temp it’s just liable to be back.  Ken finished a drive of some 130ks, parked between two rock faces hewn through for the road.  Beautiful and cool.  Persia is very fertile.  A short walk downhill revealed fertile plains more natural and down to earth with oxen drawn ploughs to complete the picture and a modern fertiliser plant I believe to pull you back to the sixties.  I took the wheel after a breakfast I really wanted to eat.  Headed for Borwerd (?) overheating considerable even on long stretches of straight flat road.  The performance is off.  Stopped for water as per.  Twig went for a swim in a very cold but muddy river just can’t keep him out of the water.  Reassurance from a group of soldiers working on survey work the road from Borwerd was good to Arak.  Reached Borwerd after some coasting, one for some 10k.  Misdirected which at the time had importance but had we known would have saved a terrible road of dust corrugations etc from Borwerd two ways to Malayer. We to the most advised which end the most ill advised if one wished to go to Arak.   Spend choking from Malayer  12.30 to 1.30 covered in dust 40k until we hit tarmac the road we should have been on from Borwerd.  With tarmac no stopping us cleared Arak extra quick time.  On one of our main stops after joining the tarmac road we removed the clogged air filters to help the overheating problem and increase performance (success).  Food 1900hrs eta Tehran 0200 8^th .  Fingers crossed.  Reunite.  Cards are stacked against us.  Gas has just finished.  Cold beans, corn beef, raw spuds, kinky.  Now we are low on water one cup each (egg cups).  Roll on Tehran.  After QOM (?) took over from Ken.  Drove and as we approached Tehran the roads got worse.  Depressions across the roads.  Finally hit Tehran 0300hrs 8^th Sept.  Parked near centre.  Sleep.

• Insert Parked that night just off of KH Sha (St) near the passport and police headquarters.  We positioned the bus off the Qavam-Os-Saltaneh Stalin.  The road has an impressive arch called the (Muze-Ye Iran Bastan) at one end.  The building with its impressive arched entrance in the Sassanian style contains items dating back to 4000BC and a fine collection of Islamic art (Ghavam Sad Aneh Ave?).  The arch stood out with fine carved war scenes of an early 20^th century look about them, or earlier?

Friday 08 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• First things first, was to find the trio.  My left side was completely stiff, I imagine from my last drive during the early hours of this morning, I had foolishly had the large sliding window on my left side open and a small hand signal window open on my right side.  The cold air had played on my shoulder and side and as I was not used to such cold evenings and had been sweating that day I found I could hardly move this morning.  Had great difficulty in breathing without pain across my chest.  Shall know better next time.  So Ken and I first enquired at the post office (P.T.T.) for the British Embassy.  Was told by an Irani who spoke little English that the British Embassy was up KH Ferdowski (St) which was not far away but as I was it seemed like miles.  Ken asked once again one person out of thousands the way to the Embassy to find he knew Ron etc.  He added they had a girl with them (typical).  At the Embassy a small letter with large printing was on display in the letter rack for “THE DOUBLE DECKER BUS” addressed to Ken, Twig or myself.  It read they were staying in a hotel (Mehr) some way from the British Embassy such an insignificant place to find they gave us a telephone number.  Skip answered and was he pleased to hear us.  Said Albert had been taken ill that morning with suspected “stones” and Ron had taken him to the hospital.  Could we find the hotel from directions in the letter.  Skip would meet us half way.  Found the Hotel Mehr and what a place bare a sufficient no trimmings.  The trio had been eating there and apparently it was terrible.  Met Janet 22 surname Searle.  She had joined Ron etc at Istanbul and had travelled with them to Tehran.  She was going to Kabal, Afghanistan.  They had sold the Merc to some Iranis (young) 9500 Bas (?) and were awaiting customs clearance,  Eventually brought the bus back to the hotel.  Albert was back with Ron feeling much better. Odd really, he said as soon as he got to the steps on the hospital he felt better already.  Big reunion.  Great to see them again.  (Smugglers etc).  Ron beaming as usual and Albert curly hair.  Skip well need I say more (unreliable).  After exchanging stories which I am sure have escalated as Ron tells them, things settled down to decide the time when we could leave for Aussie.  Skipper was restless as usual bloody annoying. Still feel rough from dysentery and Twig is suffering too.  Chest still aching even after using some liniment.  A meal out.

Friday 15 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• SWIMMING AT THE ROYAL HILTON HOTEL.  PARTY THAT NIGHT AT THE GERMAN CLUB

• It’s so very hot in the bus but not as hot as down in the valley in the city of Tehran.  We all decide to take Mr and Mrs Parsons’ offer to go swimming at the Royal Hilton which tempts us towering and alone some half a mile away above us in the distance.  Behind the Hilton the first snow can be seen on the mountains.  What a grand sight after the heat, sand and humidity of Kuwait.  The snow didn’t last long but the pleasure was lasting.  Showers are a problem and a swim would be the answer.  Phone Mr and Mrs Parsons and no reply at first.  On the second try we were lucky.  Had that feeling we weren’t really welcome.  We gathered our gear, locked the bus and walked up to the Hilton along the wide scrubbed edge drive.  Mr and Mrs Parsons made us welcome.

NB Albert’s diary written up retrospectively – see 08 to 24 May entries

Monday 18 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Met another Comex coach ‘Sussex’.

• Anti malaria course start

Thursday 21 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• MASHAD IRAN

• Up early 06.30hrs.  Visas today hopefully.  Breakfast over.  Still pestered by small boys etc.  Iranis rise early about 05.00hrs.  Horses are used in abundance.  Old street lights. Horse drawn carriages park near bored (?) Afghan Embassy.  Decided to dress as an impression as we were liable to have to wait perhaps till Saturday as Friday is a holiday (Muslim).  Skip and I arrived at Afghan Embassy all official briefcase etc.  In the visa office two French girls were trying to obtain visas that day they had difficulties.  Could we get ours.  Met an Irish fellow also going to Kabul.  He too wanted his visa immediately.  The French girls approached us.  Request for Money.  They didn’t even have money for visa.  Lumbered Irish with them.  They will get their money somehow, as grotty as they are.  We likewise had difficulties.  Come back Saturday.  To push the point I’ve returned completed form and surprisingly he granted visa.  Most helpful.  What a change just like the English weather “Come back one o’clock’ rush to complete small jobs.

Friday 22 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• IRAN.  NORTH EAST.  MASHAD TO IRAN/AFGHAN BORDER

• Border 12.15hrs Iran.  Border Afghan 17.20hrs.

• Overnight stop.  Good night’s sleep for a change.  Torbat-i-Shaikh Jam.  All up 07.30am.  Pestered by small boys.  Our alarm clock of shouts and yells.  Same diet for breakfast.  Postcards written.  A police officer offered to post them as it meant a trot into town.  Once again we brace ourselves against more rough and corrugations Ken driving.  Let’s hope he drives slowly.  These corrugations are just wearing the bus down every panel and screw is working.  Evidence of this is greatly accentuated upstairs where cream painted panels are showing parts an eighth of an inch or more wide.  Green lines describe the situation.  Ken is driving slower.  There is no need to push the bus in these conditions.  Four hours run to Afghan border.  Took to an island track running parallel with the existing track for a few miles but in soft section the drag was too much for the bus and eventually she just boiled up.  Back to corrugations.  A welcome shower approx. half an hour’s ride from the border Iran side.  Cleared customs and passports.  Awkward passport officer stupid.  Requests from hitch hikers (negative) bues (?) two a week.  Flat tyre near side (RH) nails and small boys.

Sunday 24 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Anti-malaria

Thursday 28 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Afghan / Pakistan

Saturday 30 September 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Pakistan – India.  4 hrs to clear both borders.

• Anti-malaria

September 1967 notes

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Newspaper appearances

• Tehran Iran (Persia) Kayhan Irani Edition p 14   10/9/67

• Tehran Kayhan International Edition p 2     11/9/67

• Tehran Journal    11/9/67

                      (diary insert to 7^th Sept)

• MFF 118 Puralator Fuel Filter 24.9.69

Sunday 01 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Woke to the sound of a water pump chugging away.  Crowds of Indians hanging around the bus some started to bang the side of the bus.  Had breakfast overlooked by gawping faces.  Some hungry faces.  Every time we park in what you would think was a desolate place no people, in five minutes there are crowds.  Left late and not before Ken had rapped a couple over the knuckles with a broomstick and had cracked his whip bought in Lahore.  That banging was annoying.  It got on Ken’s nerves.  He broke first.  Poor Ken.

• Reflectors stolen while we ate a midday meal.

Monday 02 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• First heard the terrible Comex disaster.  Shocked deeply.

Tuesday 03 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Today’s writing is a mess.  How I dislike diary writing.

• (Comex see notes for October)

• All Indian hotels encourage shops on the hotel premises, ok but their prices are higher than usual.

• “Statesman” interview.  Photographs.  Interviews become run of the mill.  Promises of printing for tomorrow’s issue.  Still hot humid.  Bristols apology.  Swimming in Hotel Ashoka 3R.  Ron Still and Albert go down town.  Ken, Ron, Skip, myself splash about.  Cool.  5.00pm sun’s still hot.  Albert and Ron’s return they also go swimming.  Meal in hotel.  Respect from the Indians doormen etc.  May be an overthrow from our long stay here.  Visit from the manager of the Ashoka he cordially offered us the reading room and any other amenities.  He was most helpful.  He said we acted as a Britain was expected to act.  If he only knew.  I suppose all this sir and saluting makes you act in a more fitting way.  SNOB!  India and Britain.  Rule Britannia.  Long live Queen Victoria.  The British influence although obviously has not rubbed off on to the common Indian the upper class still retain an English air.  Cambridge and Oxford are the ultimates.  You must have been a student and have studied to their ideas the centre of learning Ox Cam.  This air is so plain to us rather welcoming by(?) be home from home.  Spent some time in the reading room dressed properly this time.  Even wearing jeans and a jumper they still retain their courtesy.   Genghis Khan film.  Taxi down to the cinema north west of city Ashoka south west.  Taxi waiting to take us back services.   We also bought the tickets while we waited.  On the return trip passed the Hindu temple Kohminarayan.  Sacred cows sleeping near the temple as if they know the best place for them.  Cows wandering late at night in the middle of the road and no lights dreadful.  Sign caught my eye, picturing a motorist in his car which was safely placed on a raft, the raft at sea, the choice advertising read “Marfak your protection against the monsoons”.  Taxi return to bus service.  “How much?”  “As you like sir”.  It’s hard to understand this line.   (Expect strings attached.)   Ken paid him 12 R.  End of a lazy day.

Wednesday 04 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• INVITE TO DINNER TONIGHT.  POSTPONEMENT TO LEAVE FOR AGRA TODAY.

• (See notes for October Comex)

• Tank repaired for the fourth time.  Lazy time here at the Ashoka.  Up late.  Regret we have to leave today until Skip said he, meaning all, had been invited to dinner tonight.  The manager of a confectioners situated in the hotel asked Skip if we cared to be ready at 8.  Skip only went for some bread.  A big debate should we accept or not and travel on to Agra.  I feel if Skip had not mentioned the fact that the manager had two daughters 18 and 21 we would have gone.  So we stayed.  Ken, Skip. Ron (Twig) and Albert went swimming.  Ron and I took the leaking water tank to be repaired again.  Mrs Talbot, wife of one of the High Commission representatives, called on us as she had read of us in the “Statesman”.  We showed her over the bus and she said could she help in any way.  We said thank you but there was nothing we needed, but she returned later with a leg of lamb, 1lb bacon, paper towel, 18 eggs, 1lb sugar, lemon bottled, three tea clothes and an egg container.  Extremely good of her.  The tea clothes made us laugh as our existing set are really fit for the dustbin.  Mrs Talbot must have noticed this before Skip could whisk them away.  Toured Delhi’s markets in search for a sitar.  Saw many but they are made to order and there is a waiting list.  Returned for a swim and then lunch with Mr and Mrs Paul.  At 1900 (?) Mr Paul came for us.  His flat was not far from the hotel.  Introduced to his charming daughters Indira and Roma and his wife.  The evening went very well indeed each of us chatting away on most varied subjects.  It was quite an evening, the food delicious and the girls delightfully charming.  Left late about 12.00 and we all admitted we had enjoyed ourselves.  Each one of us were given bracelets for girls future or past and an additional ash tray which was once a leg ornament worn by village women folk.

Thursday 05 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• LEFT NEW DELHI FOR BOMBAY VIA AGRA AND TAJ MAHAL .

• Woke to find Indira in the bus.  She popped in to say goodbye before going to work.  She was dressed in a beautiful sari, dark blue with a black bodice if that is the word for it.  Said goodbye and thanks to Mr and Mrs Paul and younger sister Roma.  We had a really great time.  With an escort from our taxi friends to put us on the correct road for Agra.  Cost us 10R.  Stopped for diesel.  KW driving.    He drove in, to tangle the roof of the bus in telephones wires.  Flashes and humming sounds.  Ripped the front nearside vent into a crazy position.  No diesel here.  They nearly didn’t have a garage and we a bus.  R.I.P.  Finally stopped for diesel at a garage with no overhanging wires of any description.  For the Taj Mahal near Agra the roads are still narrow, one strip and dicey seikh drivers.  Nose to nose until the weakest gives way.  Normally one tries to avoid such jockeying but with overhanging trees which seem to avenue all Indian roads and restrict our paths a great deal.  Race to reach Agra and the Taj before sunset.  Photos etc.  Stopped by Sikandra Akbab’s tomb? for photos only to have a bonus in photo subjects when an Indian said for a small fee of course he would arrange a mongoose fight with a snake pointing to a shaggy mongoose.  Ken gave 10R to the jubilant Indian who promptly produced a snake about 6ft long!  What a fight.  Pity the snake was not killed.  Upset Ron a little he hates snakes.  The fight would delay the Taj visit, so we raced just to reach the Taj as the sun was going down.  Rushed a bet off (?).  Returned to bus impressed by the marble, size and gardens.  Paid.  Toured Agra and found the hotel recommended by Mr and Mrs Paul.  Mrs Hodds said it was OK to park for the night.  Pestered by shop vendors around the hotel grounds.  Swopped some jumpers etc for Indian souvenirs.  Had a haircut, beard trim.  Return tomorrow Taj photo in good light.

Sunday 08 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• LOW BRIDGE.  ELASTIC TELEPHONE WIRES (R Sv) .  OBSCURE ROUTE TO MISS L.B. OUTSIDE BOMBAY .

• Pushing hard at it for Bombay.  Albert continues the rota at 6.45am.  Just cannot sleep even on the upper deck front seat.  Roads narrow as Albert found out as we took to the grass verge to miss a second in a group of oncoming vehicles.  I preferred the pile of red soft bricks we hit to the lorry.  Red brick dust on both left hand front and rear tyres.  Wild life in the raw so to speak, masses of vultures surround what we couldn’t see until the timid ugly birds with their crooked necks and fearsome beaks flew off to a respectable position.  The remains of a dog could be identified after a very close inspection.  Urban district dustman of India.  Bombay the miles were melting away 180 140 120.  We should be in the city by 15.00 hrs this afternoon.  Nasik went past then halt some 67 miles from the objective a low bridge.  Return.  Advised of a level track up the road.  This caused havoc as we entered a cul de sac at the railway’s edge (R Sv) conveniently (?) placed the bus in a tangle of telephone wires.  Ken was left to untangle the mess on the roof with a broom.  Three Indians offered to show us an alternative route.  I was a bit apprehensive of them but as things turned out they were quite helpful the route was so obscure taken up in humid country high in the hill until we came upon a large, large (Tansa) lake. This was a reservoir for I presume Bombay.  Pipes some 12 ft in diameter.  The scenery up here was fantastic.  With the railway again.  Cleared the line on a level crossing.  In a trip over the mountains and passed the lake we saw more of India country than we had hoped.  The children so primitive, shy like their parents.  Flimsy loin clothes, cane huts.  Hardly saw a car let alone a double decker bus.  Hard at for Bombay leading to the city about 18.00hrs.  Marsh stink. Thunder lightening.  Finished outside H.C.residence misdirected policemen.

Monday 09 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• BOMBAY

• Damp and humid.  Sweat and heat.  Set off for Flora Fountain and British High Commission.  Walked the whole way.  09.00 hrs collected mail etc.  Glad to see the return of my address book.  One letter from home and a card.  Paid a visit to the Australian office next door for road conditions of some help.  Visited Cox and Kings shipping agents helpful and cheap until they knew it was a double decker bus then the said no rates for such a vehicle.  Left the matter at that in the hope Ron would come up with something whilst visiting the boats in the harbour.  Approached by an old Indian, Do you wish to sell a camera?  I did.  See you tomorrow.  Walked around Bombay.  Got a fair impression of the squalor and filth away from the centre, sleep in the roads and doorways, leprosy and sickness, blood in the gutters, it could be something they chew, an odd colour, crowded rooms, gutters littered with rubbish etc.  Arrived back at the bus about five in the evening.  Not much luck from Ron.  He did say they would be prepared to take the bus on the 16 October boat but we must notify him immediately.  Before we could decide Mr S. Norodin called.  We had met him in Delhi.  He had represent a Muslim Highness.  He invite to take the bus into his forecourt to show H.H. many children round.  This followed with an invite to dinner and an offer of a swim which both we didn’t decline.  The swim first in a pool at the bottom (?) of Malabar.  Thunder and lightning while we swam and cold rain.  The pool water was so warm.  Dinner at his H. materialised in a sit cross legged dip in hand dinner.  Salt first then a sweet.  Followed by chow patties, curry, rice and a meat preparation all of which was eaten with one right hand.  Left hand for cleaning purposes.  Quote.  Pins and needles.  Messy hands.  An experience.  Fruit, bananas and apples.  Rest evening chatting religion sticky.  They seemed to remain aloft to us.  One young man said his religion would change the times.  I believe a religion should change with the times.  (Times will change with the religion.  Religion must change with the times.)

Tuesday 10 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• BOMBAY.  PANVEL. N.H.4        ON THE OTHER SIDE OF PANVEL

• After last night’s meal and reception in his Highnesses residence we all felt tired.  Meeting at breakfast.  Decided the future as regards shipping ourselves and the bus to Aussie.  It was proposed to ship the bus immediately on the 16^th October to Freemantle and Sydney.  We, that is five, as one would remain with the bus, would make our way by train to Madras.  From there catch a ship to Penang or Singapore then a further ship to Darwin.  By 11 o’clock all these plans were just ifs (?).  There was no room on the 16^th October boat.  Over a meal in a restaurant near the British High Commission in the Flora Fountain area of Bombay, we decided to leave Bombay for Madras on the east coast some 3 days driving away.  The opinion is that we will have a better chance there with ships regularly sailing for Singapore and Aussie.  Spent the rest of the day clearing up small items.  Did manage to sell my camera for 100R , approx. £5, to a shady street seller.    Took a taxi back to the bus 3R with Ron.  The bus which was left in ‘H’ forecourt was now parked in the road.  Mr and Mrs Richardson invited all of us in turn for a bath, very thoughtful of her.  Finally left Bombay at twelve, not before we had taught a group of children to play hop scotch, just outside the bus.  Skip and Twig’s responsibility.  Left Pawai Road and Mount Pleasant Road and drove to the Hanging Gardens where a couple were parked in a car park awaiting the 16 October boat we hoped to take (English).  Drove through Bombay and got lost on a West Indian AA route map.  Useless things.  Final escort out of the mass of roads and on the Great Eastern Highway which was just a complete rutted mess.  This road joined the main land.  Marsh either side. Roads improved as we travelled on to Poona.  Stopped  ???

Wednesday 11 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• N.H.4    ENGLISH SCENERY, CHURCHES ETC.  FRIENDLY.

• Humidity is still bad.  Everything is so damp and the air clammy.  This humidity should become less as we proceed inland.  The roads are rough and smooth.  Late start at 11.00 after we half heartedly prodded over the grass bank for two snakes we had seen slide through the grass at breakfast time.  Up till then the only wild life we have seen were parrots, vultures and rather small colourful squirrels.  I was depressed as we set off once again some 60 miles outside Bombay for Madras a long painful 3 days motoring away if the roads are good.  Must average at least 30 mph.  Lush green hills.  Vegetation as far as the eye can see.  Skipper driving.  Drive the bus due S.E. the road begins to climb slowly at first.  Hills with green as green covering from the valley to their well round tops.  The round tops eroded by constant winds and rain.  The road went steeper and the bends sharper.  Evidence of this shows in accidents as lorries have tried to negotiate them only to come to grief.  We boil once then twice.  Rest on a sharp bend look down on the road as it winds its way down to the valleys like a snake of rope.  Once up and over the range the land rolls into plains, the hills take on sharp appearances and the greenery is not so lush, just trees sparsely scattered over the hills like dandelion seeds.  Karia caves presented a tomb of worship some 3000 years old, carved out in a long hall design with a round altar domed and a tall shelf on top of the end.  On the long climb up and down we were pestered by beggars.  Some sat and mourned.  Some exhibited leprosy and some played a two stringed variation of a sitar while producing rhythm with their left hand.  An occasional beggar would chant in front of a set of framed pictures of Hindu gods.  In the temple the lazy just sleep.  Some danced to drums so crazy I suspect they were drugged.  A scene of despair.  The only work came from the stalls where one could buy sacrificial items.  Frugal eating.  Poona.

• Dinner tonight was a Twig creation.  Piles and piles of rice.  Potatoes in their jackets.  Twig’s abortion was saved by our resident chef Ken.  Thank goodness.

Thursday 12 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• KOLHARPUR.  BELGAUM.  DHAWAR HUBLI  H.4.

• DEAD BULLOCK

• Finished Twig’s large rice pudding for breakfast.  Poor Twig still ribbed over it this morning.  Breakfast over and the sun shining on the roof of the bus making hot inside.  We set off to a late start.  We must cover at least 250 miles today or the trip to Madras will go to 4 days.  Ron driving.  Noticed wasp nests on some low hanging telephone wires.  Trees which extend secondary roots from their branches and hang to grow and take root in the earth.  Wandering bullocks and sacred cows.  Seik drivers, rutted roads, hand carts  and dogs, donkeys and cyclists all are hazards while driving.  All performing on a thin strip of road made for one vehicle, with a final extra low overhanging trees.  All go to make driving in India one big headache.  Reach Kolharpur after 1 hours driving.  I took over with approximately 367 miles to Bangalore.  Finished my spell with 200 miles to go.  Whilst driving to usual invasion of dragon flies (hot arses) and wasps managed to enter the bus but were dealt quickly by the swotting squad Ken, Ron and Skip (good sport).  Noticed careful driving signs eg “Better late than never”, “Safety first”, etc.  They should educate the cows they are the worse menace of all.  Today everything is decked in flowers, cows and bulls wear pretty garlands of yellow flowers round their necks.  Lorries decked with flowers over their bonnets, and a sort of palm leaf placed high on their trailers.  Each town seems to be celebrating, maybe the end of the monsoon season.  Passed the ruins of Kittur old fort where the British were fought in 1834.  Just an insufficient site.  Couldn’t miss it, it was well sign posted (tourist drive perhaps) Have you seen Kittur old fort? Just a mound and a flag post.  14.30 hrs.  Country similar to Essex low hills green trees sparsely covering the patch work ground.  Made Dharwar.  Stopped for the day and a meal at 19.00hrs some 130 miles from Bangalore.

• During the night the downstairs runner was stolen as it lay to dry between the engine cowling and left wing.  Elastic telephone wires (RJC)

Friday 13 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• FRIDAY 13^TH UNLUCKY FOR SOME.

• TUMKUR, BANGALORE, KOLAR

• N.H.4

• Everyone was up at six this morning.  We all saw the sun rise. Breakfast was over early washing up chores completed by 07.30.  Trouble with tick over.  No return.  Skipper can’t put his finger on it.  So much for an early start.  The door lock left(?) has completely rusted, humidity factor, still damp.  Governor strip.  I trust Mr Reina knows what he is doing.  Precision(?)  parts governors 09.45hrs.     Early start by 15 mins 10.45hrs.  Roll on Madras.  Uneventful trip, will not make Madras today.  Hope to make Bangalore 167 miles away.  More palm trees.  Ken driving.  Usual comments on his driving.  I guess we all go through it as we driving.  Mind that tree.  Shouldn’t use the gears as brakes.  Didn’t see that pot hole must be blind etc.  More exhibits of garland decked cars, lorries and buses (single deck).  Every town had some show of flowers.  Hippies or the flower children perhaps holiday today end of week more cars and people on the road.  Did notice more monkeys large and small on the road and in the trees.  Reminded me when we first saw monkeys in India, well anywhere wild for that matter, 11 October.  Ken immediately stopped, he was driving.  We handed him his movie camera and with that it was a cue for her, with her young gripping on tight, to move some 50 foot on, parallel to the road.  Ken move up to her again, only to have her move the road immediately he showed his camera.  This happened four times.  On the fourth time Ken lost his patience and gave chase on foot, only to have the monkey climb the nearest tree and peep at him from behind some branches.  Capture the moment with a Kodak Instamatic.  He didn’t but we captured Ken, a real laugh.  Ron driving, finished his spell 30 miles from Bangalore.  I took over and reach Bangalore 17.00hrs.  Cleared the town with little fuss.  Stopped early 19.00hrs 40 other side of Bangalore.

• Early night, second on the trot.  Early start tomorrow.  Average 15mpg.

Saturday 14 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• MADRAS 15.00 HRS

• 264 LITRES BOMBAY TO MADRAS

• Spent a very cool night in the bus except for the mossies.   Itch and scratch.  More cloud build up today announcing to long end of those cloudless days and starlight nights.  Left just outside Kolar at 09.00 after Ron had deliberately driven the bus early at 08.00 to get us all out of bed.  Very successful from past experience.  Well at least we were 1 hr and half hrs earlier than usual.  The roads are excellent, wide and surfaced so much better than experienced previously in our 16 days of driving in India.  Our average seems to have increased by 20 mph due to good roads.  In fact our average increase by 10.3m.5mph (?)  Smooth like riding on air.  Even from Delhi the Indian peasants use the road to dry their corn.  They busily brush the corn level.  The laughable thing is as a passing lorry rushes past it blows all the corn which way and that.  Doesn’t make sense.  Maybe they are winnowing.  Odd way.  Going progressively due east.  The scenery  on either side of the road changes..        Rugged mounts of rock, large lakes (water reserve), paddy fields and palm trees,  Still overhanging trees they are a menace.  The bridge has suffered a lot of direct hits.  A regular thing now is “Dive, dive, dive” and everyone hits the deck but not before shutting all the windows as we have half of Epping Forest in the bus already.  Eastern National and Bristol would cry if they could see the roof now.  Crossed a bailey bridge 30 miles outside Madras, a close thing.  Reached the outskirts of Madras only to run out of fuel.  Coasted into a garage.  Filled (?) the vac. tank (header) 2 galls approx..  Use the 5 gall Jerry up as, if the bus is shipped from here, all inflammable item diesel etc must not be in the vehicle’s tank or elsewhere.  Motored around Madras and finally parked with the kind permission of the manager in the hotel Ashoka.  Ron and Albert went to the docks to sort out shipping arrangements.  From now on things are going to be busy.  Very late invite to a day with a captain and his wife and his friends.

Sunday 15 October 1967

Monday 16 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• S.S. “STATE OF MADRAS”

Tuesday 17 October 1967

Wednesday 18 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Parked bus in Mount Street all last night outside Stylo Studios (Alfred’s)

Thursday 19 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Vegetarian dinner tonight at the hotel.

Friday 20 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• SAILING 14.00 HRS.  ACTUAL DEPARTURE 18.00 HRS.

• Up early.  Most of the packing had been done by all of us prior, but still a rush. To help one of the independent sign writers was around at 06.00hrs with a bill for services rendered.  We had already paid the bill yesterday before they left.  As Ken had paid him we told him to wait, and wait patiently he did till 10.00 when Ken got up.  Ken, after an argument with this man, finally told him to come back later.  We certainly are not going to pay 170Rs extra.  70R was sufficient.  Finally we were ready to leave.  Two taxis all heaped high with cases, kit bags and holdalls.  A group of people started to beg, then the taxi drivers wanted extra, so we all got out and went to order two more taxis, this soon shut them up and we were on our way.  First to Harrison to sell our liquor permits for 16R.  More trouble, our taxi got caught of parking, more arguing.  These Indians will try it on.  With Ron, Albert, Ron S and myself 16R each better off and no time to spend we made for the dock (Prior to our arrival at Harrison I was approached by a scene I will never forget, begging generally can be pushed aside it’s just annoying, most beggars are quite capable of work, this particular case to me was unforgettable, a young girl about 18 – 19 years crawling on her knees, with shoes on her hands, and a little baby on her back.  She made for our taxi and begged like a dog at the door of the car.  She had no legs.)  Paid the taxi half what they wanted and carried our bags to the customs shed 11.30.  At 14.00hrs we were clear customs embarkation.  2 ½ hours to clear, the main reason  being passports, they had gone to lunch.  Had some small difficulty with customs over our joint customs sheet with all our cameras etc list.  Eventually after including Ken and showing all the listed items we cleared for the boat.  The boat should have sailed at 14.00 hrs then 16.00 eventually it sailed 18.00.  Shown to our cabin, 6 berth aft end, extreme, you couldn’t get any further back.  Left harbour with the assistance of a tug.  Watch all.  Capt Shah saw us off.  The deck class settle for the night, amongst which were some Europeans, 5 in all.  3, I don’t blame them, got a free tea and dinner before the chief steward caught them.  No harm in trying, deck class does not include meals, bring your own.

Saturday 21 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• STORM. HEAVY RAIN.  02.00 HRS.

• NAGAPATTINAM

• 06.35 hrs coast on star board beam.  Return the way we came.  Return to Madras.  Arrive late at night.  Lay anchor 22.15 hrs off Madras.

• MADRAS TO (PENANG) NAGAPATTINAM 12 NOON “STATE OF MADRAS” PROGRESS LOG

• LAT 11o 36’ N   COS TO STEER .011o (T)

• LONG 80o 10’ E   COS MADE GOOD   VARIOUS o (T)

• DIST MADE G 210

• DIST TO GO 22

• AV SPEED 11.93

• NAGAPATTINAM INFORMATION MAY BE INCORRECT

Sunday 22 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• FINALLY LEAVE FOR SINGAPORE!

• Lay off shore all day till late afternoon.  Enter harbour 16.10 hrs.  See Ken once again.  Take on cargo and passengers.  Leave Madras approx. 24.00 hrs.

Monday 23 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• 9 MONTHS.  TIME FLIES.

• The crew exercise.  Life boat drill.  Film show. Hindi.

• MADRAS TO PENANG 12.00 NOON

• “STATE OF MADRAS” PROGRESS RECORD

• LAT. 12o – 24’ N.  SPEED 11.11 K. AVER.

• LONG 82o – 13 E.  DAILY RUN 120.

• MILES TO GO 1154 AT 12.00 HRS

• (COURSE DUE EAST APPROX)  112o (T)

Tuesday 24 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• OFFICERS PARTY FIRST CLASS ONLY

• MADRAS TO PENANG 12.00 NOON

• “STATE OF MADRAS” PRGRESS LOG

• LAT 10.38 ½ N  SPEED 11.96K AVER

• LONG 86.39 E

• COURSE MADE 111 ½ o (T)

• COURSE TO STEER 113 (T)

• DIST MADE GOOD 287

• DIST TO GO 867

Wednesday 25 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• MADRAS TO PENANG 12.00 NOON “STATE OF MADRAS” PROGRESS LOG

• LAT 8o 34’ N.    LONG 91.29’ E.  COURSE MADE GOOD 113.2 (T).  COURSE TO STEER 113o (T).  SPEED 13.08.  DIST MADE GD 314.  DIST TO GO 558.

• Small riot.  Film show.  The Gathering of the Eagles.  Bombay The Gateway to India.

• NICOBAR ISLANDS

• LAT 8o N LONG 94 o E  APPROX

• SOMBRERO CHANNEL.  TERESA I. KAMORTA I.  LITTLE NICOBAR.                 GT NICOBAR.

Thursday 26 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• MADRAS TO PENANG PROGRESS LOG 12.00 NOON “STATE OF MADRAS”

• LAT  6o 56’ N   LONG  95o  42’ E

• COURSE MADE GOOD VARIOUS o

COURSE TO STEER 110o (T)

• SPEED 11.87

• DIST MADE GOOD 273    DIST TO GO 286

• CLOCKS ADVANCE 60 MTS

• Beautiful dusk scenes.  Undescribable.  The rain could be heard beating on the deck below our port hole as I rose to go to breakfast 8.30 as usual.  In fact it had been continuously since last night 12.00 midnight.  Fortunately for Al, Nigel and Chris the direction of the rain didn’t change and remained on the port side.  As for the other deck class below my swift run from the poop deck over the connecting passage way to the main deck and the dining salon revealed a desert boat port side.  Small groups of Indians sheltering in the lee of the weather.  Breakfast over.  Special fried eggs, fish cakes, chips, cereal, coffee.  The weather started to clear.  Two days to Penang.  We passed the group of Indian islands about 12 midnight to Ron’s pleasure and amazement.  He said at the time that he wondered how we possibly missed them.  With just a half old moon shrouded the islands could be seen quite plainly on the starboard beam.  I wondered if most of them were habitable.  Another downpour  and I watched the rain deaden the waves and stipple the surface.  Finally the sun came out and large formations of cloud build up could be seen port and starboard.  At dinner the sea became smooth, the smoothest I have seen it on the whole trip.  Remarked perhaps the boat could go faster 12 knots is not very good.  This afternoon between writing this damn diary I have taken a few strolls.  The scenes of the billowing cloud and sea was really worth seeing.  Rain clouds to port.  Still humid.  Lost a lot at 3 card brag this morning.  Writing is the least expensive of the two.  Dinner over more cards.  As the evening went on another party began on the officers deck.  We were not invited, much to our annoyance.  Thrown out of the saloon so we continued to play directly under the officers deck with the Beatles echoing over the sea as with sail due East.  01.00 am clocks advance 60 mts.  Did regather some lost cash.

Friday 27 October  1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• PENANG 13.30 HRS.  TOOK ON PILOT 12.00

• All up early this last morning of our trip.  Breakfast over, which we considered our last meal, we set about tidying up loose ends.  The waiters are exceptionally helpful and talkative to us.  More coffee please.  Yes sir.  Our particular steward was grinning all over his face as he served us.  All to waste, we haven’t got a cent for tips amongst us. Jeff has only 5 cents left to get to Aussie.  Lost his last few dollars gambling.  On either side of the boat small tropical islands can now be seen.  Land masses shooting from the water.  Tropical forest from tip to water’s edge.  Small ships appeared.  Local fishing boats.  From the starboard beam Penang could be seen far in the distance just a speck 11.00 hrs.  The dinner chimes go 12.00 hrs, another dinner, surprise, surprise.  Al begs for some bread he’s starving.  I wish he wouldn’t do it outside the dining saloon.  Gave him three slices.  By this time the stewards are really looking forward to our expectant tips.  Play along.  Dinner over we all slip quietly away to avoid embarrassment.  No tips from the two European tables.  I hope we don’t have to face them at tea time.  Penang can be seen plainly now.  Chinese junk drift slowly by.  Ships can be seen anchored off in the straits.  Glide in past Penang and anchor off to await passport and health officials.  Once on board they set about clearing over 400 passengers, the majority being deck class.  This over we are directed to the officers deck.  Played darts.  Everyone up here, Al, Chris, Nigel, our group,  Peter, Morgue, Dopey and the Dutch pair.  The air is clean and fresh and the scenery beautiful.  Penang Bay, the Straits and the mainland all orderly and sharp in contrast to a blue cloudy sky.  Tea time comes and the looks from the stewards are terrible.  Daren’t ask for another cup of tea.  Ron causes a small riot when he pinched the captain’s cake.  The deck class were accused.  Back on officers deck and darts.  The time is dragging and night is falling, the islands in the distance become black smudges (?) and Penang Straits light up.  Strips of illumination on both banks, only the lightening changes the night scene.  It’s now raining as we fight our way off the boat a mass rush (?) shambles and shoving down the gang plank.  Pestered by taxi and porters.  Spent night on Butterworth station.

Saturday 28 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• PERAK STATE CAPITAL IPOH 7,980 ??

• BUTTERWORTH – IPOH $3MD

• IPOH – KUALA LUMPUR  $6.15MD

• MORGUE AND DOPPY GO SEPARATE WAYS.

• AL AND NIGEL AND CHRIS THUMB

• JEFF HITCHES TO SINGAPORE WITH 5 CENTS IN HIS POCKET  300 ? MLS

• GERD STAYS IN PENANG TO SELL A STONE

• STATE OF PENANG CAPITAL GEORGE TOWN

• TRAIN JOURNEY TO KUALA LUMPUR

• Woke early.  Had no choice but to get up 7.00.  Slept lightly.  All our clothes are damp.  Everything is clammy.  Struggled down to the café and wash house.  I wish I had not taken so much clothing and extra stuff with me it’s so awkward to carry.  A wash and breakfast makes all the difference.  Scout around for a taxi to take us to Singapore.  No luck. So eventually we decided to take the train first to Ipoh then to Kuala Lumpur. Albert and Constant return across the Straits to Penang.  A better exchange rate.  Waiting at Butterworth Station.  All the public buildings and a lot more beside are excellent modern and new, what a contrast from India with its beggars, smells and spitting.  Malaya is clean and a great deal more affluent.  Albert and Constant return so a party of us, the 5, Constant, Joger and Peter, one of three on the boat, climb with all our luggage onto a bus which took us to the next station and our train.  The train diesel which gleamed (alloy body) look top heavy on such a small gauge track.  Our journey start at 1.15 pm from Perai Station and we were soon swaying through the Malaya country side which is so beautiful with its rubber plantations, palm trees so tall and small huts on stilts surrounded by slush green sub jungle.  Each station so meticulously kept and efficient, similar to small Welsh stations for a comparison.  As soon as we left it start to rain then stop.  Up and down went our windows.  It was so hot in the carriage.  Reach Ipoh 5.30 dusk.  Switched carriages and Albert bought further tickets to K.L.  The scenery has changed to high peaks and the sub jungles to small plains.  Night now with a 3 ¾ hr train journey ahead to time went quickly and right on time the train pulled in at K,L,  On the whole journey the weather was terrible.  Left our heavy luggage at station and walked to centre.  Had a meal paid by a friendly German, and slept the night in Baden Powell (boy scouts) house in the high commissioner’s room (Capt Shaw M.I.N.).  (Showers etc) (extra notes added at end of month)

Sunday 29 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• KUALA LUMPUR – SINGAPORE $11.60 MD

• 20.30 TRAIN TO SINGAPORE.   SHOULD BE IN SINGAPORE BY 6.30

• HQ BP HOUSE JALAN DAVIDSON KL WHERE WE STAYED

• TRAVELLING COMMISSIONER B.S. ASS. MALAYSIA

• A DAY IN KUALA LUMPUR

Woke after a really deep sleep, first time for ages where I have hit the pillow to wake in the morning without disturbed sleep.  Had to vacate the H.C. room quickly as requested. We were kindly allowed to leave our baggage at the house and the house warden and our host last night Mohin Omar P.B. *  took us to breakfast.  Very good of them.  After breakfast we strolled back to the house where upon an offer of a ride to Singapore was made .  Skip, Twig, Constant and his wife took the opportunity so it left Ron, Albert, Peter and myself to kill time till the train at 8.30pm to Singapore.  With Skip and Twig gone we have saved $23md approx..  Every little helps.  Said goodbye to our hosts at B.P. house, thanked them for their help and assistance.  Watched the four drive away in a Peugeot Estate (diesel).  Wandered down town.   Kuala Lumpur is very odd, no fixed centre, made up of small areas, it makes it hard to get a bearing.  All is closed on a Sunday.  All the travel agents were closed except two and they were no help.  Ron left a rather neat pack a mac, lent by the Dutch couple, in one agents.  He didn’t discover this until late afternoon after we had eaten at a snack bar and made friends with two assistants at the café.  Met a young Yank (young) who was doing a tour in Vietnam, just a filing clerk, had some funny ideas, flower children, psychedelic experiences, LSD.  Reminded me of the crazy couple in Madras.  This flower business is spreading.  He wore white local clothes which he said was to allow him to walk around out of bounds area permitted to him by the US army. If you ask me he looked more conspicuous.  Ron got the pack a mac back after waking the janitor up who was brought back to the agents from across the city.  Back to B.P. for gear and a shower.  Further thanks, food and down to the station.  Train left late 8.45.  Settled down at the very end carriage all to ourselves.  Bunked on rack.

Monday 30 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Arrived at Singapore 06.35am after sleeping in the train from Kuala Lumpur.  Little sleep last night as the Kuala Lumpur express pushed its way to Singapore.  Our carriage is the very end one.  A guard’s van separated us from the rest of the passengers.  Sleeping on the luggage rack was quite comfortable.  We were disturbed once or twice during the overnight journey by passengers who also thought the carriage would present a quiet sleep.  The train was very empty and I reckon our carriage was the most popular.  Slept tossing and turning.  Noted every stop until I woke to find all the passengers 3 in all had gone.  I got the feeling we were in a siding.  It was light.  We all got up in a rush only to hear Twig’s familiar voice “They’re in here”.  Apparently they had held the train up for ten minutes looking for us.  Had gone through train twice and stopped each time at the guard’s door not thinking a coach extended beyond,  This also fooled the customs and passport people.  The train The train after the delay truddled on over the small stretch of water separating the island from the mainland which was in my view not very wide.  Surprised.  Johore Straits, causeway at Johore Bahru. In half an hour we had reached Singapore Station the only station (main) on the island. Single track line all the way from Penang.  Only once met a train coming the other way, then we had to reverse up to a slip line.  Left our bags in the luggage office on the station and a bus No 1 to Collyer Quay stopping to send telegram, 80 cents a word, to England.  All of Singapore, like Malaya, is so efficient .   Spent the rest of the day touring Singapore travel agents in a quest to get to Aussie, resulting in complete confusion and disruption.  First fly (?) Djakata no get a boat.  Hitch Sumatra, ferry to Djakata Java, Garuda airlines fly Singapore Kupani (?) overland Indonesian – Portuguese Timor, and so on, by the time the afternoon came we didn’t know where we were, I don’t think Ron did either.  Part from the group and toured the shopping paradise.  Oh for a telephoto lens, they are so cheap.  Bought a gold St Christopher.  Met up with the crowd again just outside the British High Commission.  They had met Al, Chris and Nigel who were living (it?) up with friends (Sunbeam Alpine).  Twig met, of all people, Keith who worked at Fluors (pay office) he had taken a boat to Bangalore (?) from Calcutta and now was stuck.  Hoped the B.H.C. would help.  Back home to railway station

Tuesday 31 October 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Disturbed rudely this morning at 06.30 as the 3^rd class café opened for the early morning commuters.  Turn over to wake again 07.00  the station is alive with people.

October 1967 notes

• Letters 130 NP.   Postcards 60 NP.

• *Regrettable Comex disaster 29^th  September

Wednesday 01 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• BALAI POLICE QUEENSTOWN

• Ron, Skip and Twig fly to Aussie.

Thursday 02 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• ARRIVAL DARWIN AUSTRALIA RON, SKIP AND TWIG.

• Derek’s money comes through.  We fly out 8 November.

Friday 03 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• EXIT SINGAPORE LATE 21.30 APPROX

• BOAC TAKES GOOD CARE OF YOU

• BOAC BO 707.  Surprise fly out today.

Saturday 04 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• AUSTRALIA 04.00HRS APPROX.   DARWIN (ENTRANCE)

• R.L.S. BIRTHDAY

• Miserable day spent looking for digs.  Poinciana Guest House.  So in the early hours of this morning we at last set foot in Australia.  Nothing really dramatic after setting out on the 23^rd January.  From the plane the airport didn’t look much but you couldn’t tell in the dark at about 03.30.  I had slept most of the way, still feeling pretty rough with flu.  The air hostesses were very good but a little rushed off their feet with a packed plane full of economy class, (pays?)  (tourist).  The first feeling that we were nearly there was a large pressure build up on my ears as we descended.  A quick look at my watch seemed to show we had made up the 3 hrs lost on arrival at Singapore.  I dare say the aircraft made up one hour.  I was too tired and feeling to care.  Still the pressure on my ears which became painful and increasingly difficult to cure until the aircraft levels out I assume for finals.  It was then the pressure was stopped by holding my nose and blowing hard.  Ah relief.  A glimpse to my left revealed lights, sparse, over a small area viewed through the cabin window. My first look at Australia.

Sunday 05 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• LIFE AT THE POINCIANA (NIGHTS WITH WHITE ANTS AND MICE)

• Spend today, Sunday, looking once again for accommodation.

Monday 06 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Labour exchange.

Tuesday 07 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Work for the first time in Aussie.

Wednesday 08 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Dance tonight Darwin Hotel

Thursday 09 November 1967

Friday 10 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Late night Don Hotel Abo! holding.

Saturday 11 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• CORROBORREE LET DOWN.  SWIMMING  PARAP FANNY BAY

• Up reasonably early for a Saturday.  It’s one week today since our rather morbid entry into Aussie with the promise of a corroboree by Abo! yesterday night.  What a night at the Don Hotel.  Al, Brett and myself walked hurriedly to the railway sidings only to be disappointed, just another drunken promise.  I was sure they meant it.  Tomorrow they said.  Reminded me of Kuwait ‘Bukhra’, all promises.  I felt a prize idiot with my camera etc.  A quick decision and we decided to go for a swim at Parap, a suburb of Darwin, but first breakfast which cost me a dollar.  Back at the Poinciana we collected our tings and walked to the main route to Parap, short for Parap something.  Golden thumb, Al as he put it had a lift in no time.  A friendly argument started over the golden thumb title, which Brett reckoned should be his as Al never got any lifts without his company.  A real laugh these two.  Once at the pool which say Olympic swimming pool, whether this means in size or just name I will never know.  It was a good pool and after races etc I was quite tired when we were asked to vacate the pool at five.  With some time to kill before the late night at Fanny Bay we drifted into a pub (English) or drinking house (Aussie).  I spent a bomb on drinks and 20 cents for the juke box.  Al kept playing a special record and talking of Alison, a girl he knew in New Zealand.  After many drinks and dollars later we had a meal in a restaurant which insisted on illuminating the dining room with candles stuck in bottles.  It was most awkward trying to look for the person across the table, let alone see to eat.  The candles incidentally presented some amusement to the three of us, the damn things wouldn’t stay upright and kept falling over or inclining as they burned.  Al was fascinated by the wax build up around the bottle neck.  During the meal Brett kept in fun running Al down and saying he had ways contrary to himself.  All fun.  A walk to Fanny Bay and a quiet evening all in the open under the stars, palm trees and the sea lapping the beach.  It’s times like this when female company would be most desirable.  Tried hitching.   A, the golden thumb, had little success.  All A kept saying was ‘hitch hiker’ which didn’t help.

Sunday 12 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• A.V.R.  BIRTHDAY

• Swimming Parap pool.  Move to new accommodation, thank goodness.  Film, Tempest.  Ron sailed on morning tide approx. 03.00 hrs.  Skip and Twig looked lost.  More so Skip.

Monday 13 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Alvin leaves for Timor Asia and Europe tomorrow.

Thursday 16 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Propose a bush trip late this evening.

Friday 17 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Hire a Moke.  Speedo cable episode.  Worked in town on a placard of motorways car mart.

Saturday 18 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Bush

Sunday 19 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Bush

Monday 20 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• BUDGET WEEK EVERY WEEK

• Return Moke.  Was up at 7.15 this morning.  Woken from a deep sleep by Brett.  “Wake up we have to finish the Moke.”  Moke, oh yes, it’s got to go back this morning 08.30 hrs.

Tuesday 21 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Dinner time approached by Moke owner.  All day in Bush.  Take a roll of film to be processed 10 – 14 days.

Wednesday 22 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Half day in Bush fencing.  Rained.  Worked till 18.30 hrs.

Thursday 23 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• DOMESTIC NIGHT
• Ten months today.  All day in work shop.  How I hate it, drilling perhaps 100 items then cutting.  Burt paid a visit and Ron brought round some tins of fruit, meat etc.  Darning night and a little washing.

Saturday 25 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• DAY OFF.  LETTER FROM WILKO.  NOW WE KNOW WHERE THE BUS IS.  .

• Albert worked today, still unloading oil drums.  At 8 o’clock this morning he woke me up to ask if I would mind checking his mail and buy some aerograms.  Just got to the post office in time as they close at 12.00.  No mail for myself but Albert had two letters and one bore the hand of Ken.  Now we know where the bus is.   Albert read the letter while we travelled on the back of a pick up to the Darwin.  Roughly it said that the ship had not arrived until the 12^th November and he left the bus in the docks for two days with a watchman, thank goodness.  The bus was loaded on the 14^th.  He said it took 5 days to clear the paper work. Ken then stayed with friends till 17^th then flew to Singapore BOAC £154 old rate.  Day stop in Colombo Hotel paid by BOAC.  In Singapore Ken had approx. 48 US$  £5 pound a place to stay TOC H cost M9$ 3 meal (suggest he stay at Sheik temple).   Bus arrived Singapore 22^nd .  Ship had waited outside as berths were full.  Had to pay port tax M120$ and will be the same when the ship leaves.  Possibly he will ship the bus to Freemantle for 10.34$ Aussie cost 23$ per cubic foot.  Shipping costs to other ports, Darwin LTC $29 per cubic foot.  As far as Darwin is concerned no ship till New Year.  Money problems.   He added oil leak on engine very bad pipe line.  On our present earning it could take ten weeks to clear the bus.  I feel sorry for Ken stuck in Singapore with little money.  It was bad enough for us.  Tonight I wrote to Ken explaining our side.  In fact the letter didn’t read well but at least Ken knows where he stands.  Albert finished work around four.  Apparently he may be sailing as cook on the Kestrel.  He will know tomorrow.  Albert quite looking forward to it.  I don’t blame him.  One thing before closing, Bill, Albert’s room mate, comes in with a lump under his right eye.  He had got into a fight, no fault of his own, three to one.  Aboriginals.  This is all this place is good for, drinking and fights.  (Don Hotel)  Resolved to look for another job, more interesting.  Xmas cards.

Sunday 26 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Sun is as hot as ever today.  Albert so eager to know if he has this cooks job was up and away by 8 o’clock only to return by 8.30 long faced and all “The cook’s drinking coffee on the bridge so I guess he is still working.”  Albert disappointed went back to his room asleep.  It’s during this time I was sorting my paper etc out to find to my amazement I had mislaid every newspaper cutting of the trip, all in a large brown envelope.  I can recall lending them to Al but he returned them the next day.  I also recall packing them with various other paper work when I left the Poiciana, or did I.  So I took a walk round with no success.  My only hope is I lent them to Bret or he knows of their whereabouts.  I could kick myself of losing them, it’s the only handy record of the trip.  The whole affair is worrying.  There is something in the back of my mind that could possibly help.  Have you ever tried to cover nearly three weeks day for day in the hope you might uncover something, it’s difficult.  My return to No 27 Knuckney Street heralded some excitement for Albert.  I had not been back more than two minutes when an English typically English fellow tosh (?) and all asked after Albert, yep Albert had the job and they wanted him to sail at 1 o’clock.  It was 12.15.  Apparently they had been after him since 11.30.  Albert had given my room No 9 instead of his No 4 and my being out they had drawn a blank until they saw me.  Well Albert you’re at sea, and I wish I was going with you.  A big rush packing etc, correcting the bus book which I shall take over, Albert beaming and happy, left, a ship’s cook.  Ron’s trip involved cooking buffalo and this worried Albert.  Had to pull his leg.  Still best of luck Albert.

• Looking back at this morning and the way Al shot from his bed the moment he knew he was going, made me laugh, if only he could get up so early quickly when in the bus.  Spend rest of the day disgracefully sleeping.  roaming the town at 19.00hrs (Writing).

Tuesday 28 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Down at the wharf early 08.00hrs.  Introduced to the infamous “Mayday” Morgan.  Capt Ron had warned me of his drinking, short temper and difficult to get on with.  Large perjon (?) Aussie wearing a ridiculous large hat and he smelt of booze (grog), it was on his breath.  It’s possible he can spoil this job for me.  It’s happened according to Martin, Sam. He was the reason why Perkins has such a large turn over of staff on the good ship Hawk, that and poor wages.  Up until yesterday Ron had threatened to walk off and Harry well he was always walking off, but soon came back, he drinks too.  Met Martin, engineer, and Sam yesterday in the “Darwin”.  Shown over the “Hawk” engines etc.  It’s a hell of a lot to remember, fuel, water systems, oil changes.  I was beginning to doubt if I can handle this job with very little diesel’s experience.  It’s just as well Sam knows the run of things.  Started on the starboard engine “Patricia”, “Patsy” the name of the port engine, both engines are RRC type.  Changed the fuel filters of the starboard engine and came up against difficulties, the prime and vent pump would not work.  Then “M. M.” came down start engines “You can’t have the starboard” I said.  He only just started the port.  Boy does he panic.  Doesn’t help to cast a reliability attitude to the crew.  So forced to start the engine and cleared the system.  Lucky.

Wednesday 29 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Ron quits.  Storm.  New cook and A.B.

Thursday 30 November 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Another new cook and A.B.

November 1967 notes

Main diary (Rob’s)

• 1^st November public holiday in Malaya ((Deepavali)  (Hindi)

• Money 25.11.67   Copy Ken’s letter

• Shipping costs for the bus

• Madras to Singapore was £262.10 –

• Port tax and stamps etc   £30 – –

• Plane fare   £54 – –

• Total    £346.10  –

• Port tax entrance to Singapore  $ 120 MD

• Also exit port tax will be the same.

Friday 01 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Up at 05.30. Sailing all night. Breakfast and ready for my trick 06.00 to 12 noon.  Remained on the poop deck.  The sun had not already come up.  A dawn at sea.

• Crocker Island 19.00hrs    Latitude 11o 9’5  Longitude 132o 35’ 5” E

• Mission Bay.  Beached.  Reef.  Cape Crocker during the afternoon

• Latitude 10o 57’ S    Longitude 132o 36’E

Saturday 02 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• At one o’clock Sam woke me to do my hour’s trick.  We wait till 04.00 when we sail with the tide.  Sitting outside.  Rain clouds clear to show a star studded night sky.  From the shore the smell of burning drift wood from the mission beach fire and the gentle lap of the waves on the shore line makes it hard for me to stay awake.  The S.S. Hawk is now swinging on her only anchor, the stern anchor.  Pass the time shining a torch light on the surface of the water to attract fish.  All I can muster is squid which keeps changing colour as I swing the light to and fro on him.  It’s interesting to watch him dart in the water backwards and forwards for small fish.  Only a few lights showing from the mission houses.  All are asleep.  The time 02.00.  Jim’s trick till 04.00 (Jock)

• Sth Gouldburn Island 15.00 hrs

• Beached SW bay   Lat. 11o 38’ S     Long. 133o 22’ E

• Anchor just off MacQuarie Strait for the night.  Barclay Point port beam (140o)    Ross Point starboard astern

Sunday 03 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Sunday and work.  At least double bubble.  Sam woke me at 0400 for my 2 hour trick.  It’s not cold, hasn’t been all the time.  A pleasant breeze and a clear night sky.  By 05.15 the dawn breaks.  Sun rises and sets at sea are really beautiful.  Can now see the mainland of Australia, Ross Point and Barclay Point.  The colour of the sea changing to different shades of green as the light strikes the surface.  As seems usual for a morning, heavy cloud.  It should disperse by mid morning.  Sea calm.  Call for Taff at 06.00 and breakfast talk about snoring, M.M. and “talking in one’s sleep” Jim.

Monday 04 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Millingimbi Island  12o 8’ S   134o 55’ E

Tuesday 05 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Depart Millingimbi 05.30.  Anchored out in channel that night.  Anchor duty as per.

Wednesday 06 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Finished my trick at 12 midnight.  Jack expected bad weather.  Still on course for Mount Norris Bay Rough seas that night.  A following sea.  Poor Taff asleep, was pooped, rain and sea water came pouring into our quarters through the port holes, completely soaking Taff.  I slept through the whole episode.  Woke as usual engines idling 1000 rpm.  Just passing time till dawn when we could approach the bay and anchor to await the Coringle.  Engines stopped 07.25 Mount Norris Bay.

• Mount Norris Bay 11o 30’S   132o 45’ E

• (Copeland Island)

Thursday 07 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Up 5.30 after anchor watch alongside Coringle.  Mount Norris Bay.  Rained that night.  Tried to pump bilges.  Took on load.  Working 07.30hrs.  Oil drums, furniture, food, glass, beds, mattresses and water proofing.  Early breakfast then all hands to finish off loading the Coringle.  Carefully stacked all the furniture, baby food, glass (mirrors) and mattresses. Cast off from the Coringle and motored slowly to the beach.  Hit the beach with a hell of a thump.   I was in the engine room at the time and got thrown against a support pole.  Lucky, could have fallen against the route exhaust pipes, hot.  Once at the beach Mayday decided to off load all the cargo over the side. The Abos still asleep and M.M. in a damn hurry to get back to Darwin, maybe his supply of grog had exhausted.  We started to off load ourselves.  We had to do everything and with Jock useless, well not this time, he worked hard.  He enjoyed rolling the 40 gall oil drums (full) over the side and watch them splash in the water soaking the Abos who had eventually condescended to help, not before we had offloaded nearly all the furniture etc by ourselves.  At least the episode was not as hectic and interesting as the previous day.  Having work a system of a ramp to roll the drums off (port side) and the assisted help of Jock who we considered had found renewed strength in one of Taff’s omelettes.  We were soon finished.  It was very hot by then and stripped to the waist we were targets for flies.  Cheeky things.  Crawl all over you.  Not like English flies who know when to stop.  So soon we were motoring for Darwin, the cool sea breeze welcome on our backs.  Past the Coringle anchored peacefully and headed for Bowden Straits. M.M. was in a good mood as he reckoned to be in Darwin by the morning tide 8^th December.  1400 approx departed M.N. Bay.  08.30 hrs entered in engine log.  Sea calm.  Sun hot.

• PS  Baby food? was loaded back on the Coringle mistake.  Have you ever seen camp.

• Mount Morris Bay.  Entered Bowden Straits.  Estimated 8 knots.  Rice pudding, dinner time failure, poor Taff.  Sleep 12 to 1800.  Evening trick 1800 – 2400.  Jack up and down all evening.  Jock on wheel.  Sight ship’s lights 23.00.  Bed.

Friday 08 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

Beached Frances Bay (Perkin’s hard) 10.00 approx.  Jock, then after completing 3 hours at the wheel during Morgan’s trick, Jack starts his six hour trick till 0600 hours.  Jack really treads on Jock, perhaps that’s why he keeps him on because he is particularly useless as a A/B for which he was employed.  After the ship had passed on our port side, and not before, M.M. had panic and shouted at Jock for steering too close to the other ship which made Jock worse.  Apparently M.M. sighted at 0200 the light house which according to M.M. should have been at 23.00 hours approx. that evening, but then M.M. is one big approx. in everything he does.  (He looks odd when he’s sleeping usually clutching a Western and mouth wide open.)  Between him and Taff I don’t know who is the worst snoring menace on board.

Saturday 09 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• E.T.A. Kestrel

Sunday 10 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Sail tonight.  All on board by 23.30 hours.  Low tides.

Monday 11 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• GARDEN POINT MELVILLE ISLAND 11o 25’ S  130o 25’E

• GARDEN POINT 16.45

• BEACHED

• Garden Point.  Engines stopped 16.55.  Left Perkin’s Wharf 12.30.  Smooth little upsets.  Jack pissed as usual.  Expected trouble from Mayday but everything went off smoothly thank god.  M.M. when pissed makes everything hard going.  His attitude is one of panic.  So we depart 00.45 hours for Garden Point and Snake Bay, a three day trip all being well.  Quietly and slowly motor from the hard.  Pass the Coringle and the Kestrel alongside.  I wonder if Albert got on board.  Cries from the Coringle are exchanged with us as we motor passed Stokes Hill Wharf and the grain jetty.  Darwin is just a series of lights, Nightcliff the same.  Sam’s trick.  Turn in as we pass the Emery Light.  Sea smooth, cloudless night.  Woken by Taff at 05.45.  Breakfast ready.  Looked through the wheel house door just beyond my HD to see a heavy swell.  The barge Pru …?  was not making the best of it, rolling, rocking.  Got up , walked half run and rolled to the toilet, had difficulty to wash.  Once finished I felt rough, breakfast was out.  Straight out on deck.  It was cold.  My estimation of our position was approx. 30 miles from Darwin.  The rolling slowly moved to my stomach.  Got worse until I was sick not once but three times.  In 3 hours we reached sheltered water as motored up the channel dividing Bathurst and Melville Islands.  The sand bar gold and hard stretching along our starboard side.  To our port the village or mission (Bathurst Island Mission).  Once in the channel you could see the sea rough breaking on the sand bar.  The odd wooden huts and pontoon jetty.  Trees both tropical and European (?) soon passed.  No reason for a pilot.  The channel soon weaved through the mangroves which stretch down to the muddy water’s edge.  No sound of life from the shore as we proceeded up the channel, our wake lifting the banks which recede and narrow.  Small islands of mangroves pass by.  Reach Garden Point by 16.55 hours.  Low gear box pressure.  Run engines again to check GB x pressures.  21.40

Tuesday 12 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Garden Point.

Wednesday 13 December 1967

Thursday 14 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• SNAKE BAY MELVILLE ISLAND.  11o 25’ S    130o 38’ E

• Snake Bay Melville Island.  Await spares.  Melville second largest land mass of the Aussie coast to Tasman Island.

Friday 15 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Beached Perkin’s Wharf 20.00 hours approx..

Saturday 16 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Sacked.

Sunday 17 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• TWIG’S 21^ST BIRTHDAY

Monday 18 December 1967

Tuesday 19 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Lazy life.  Up at 09.30. What change from the ‘Hawk’.  I wish I was back at sea though.  Down to the Post Office.  Posted the last of my Christmas mail.  From the PO as I crossed the road (Knuckey Street) who should swing in from Smith Street driving his red V.W. and wearing that ridiculous hat, but M. Morgan.  So The Hawk’s back already uhm, uhm.  Walk to the labour exchange.  Once again on the way bought some long socks $1.75 (expensive) all in all, they are smart white.  The labour has little to offer.  Writing this seems such a total waste of time.  Such boring items.  Went to labour exchange, no jobs.  Ug.  Well there were jobs but in each case they would like to employ you after Christmas as they would have to pay you three days holiday.  QANTAS and SAATAS are interested after the holidays.  I did try Paul’s the ice cream manufacturer, but it was just a token call, I didn’t really want the job, it was nearly two miles out of town, that’s no excuse if I intend to work on the airfield 5 miles out.

Wednesday 20 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Casual labour with Wridgeways.

Thursday 21 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Casual labour outback transport Bacardi and Coke Ugh!  Posted group’s Christmas cards.  Up early with the intention of firstly clearing up group business.  Posted all the Christmas cards off.  Rather a boring job, even once a year.  Eventually found my way to the labour exchange.  Casual labour is all you can get as no firm wishes to employ you just before the long Christmas holidays.  So, along with another Pom whose name evades me, we became employees for 4 hours with Outback Transport.  Reluctant at first, but by the end of the day I couldn’t care less.  Sorted boxes around the warehouse then with John the Pom, as he introduced himself, we were driven in a new artic, it was so new John P. made a real mess of gear changing.  Our load and where we were going was a complete mystery.  We didn’t go far.

Friday 22 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Casual labour, Outback again.  More Bacardi and Coke.  Oh no! Telegram Ron saying “Expect letter from Duke of Edinburgh 4.1.68 QANTAS and got a letter from Ken, good news.

Saturday 23 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Bad news. QANTAS.  Letter from Ken.

Sunday 24 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Christmas.  Well we all know, as it’s Sunday there are no pubs open to start the Christmas celebrations.

Monday 25 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Christmas Day in Aussie and what a day.  333.26$ worth.

Tuesday 26 December 1967

Wednesday 27 December 1967

Thursday 28 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Work with Orut Building Company

Friday 28 December 1967

 Saturday 30 December 1967

Main diary (Rob’s)

• Work all day.  Rainy season. You’re not kidding.

---

Saturday 4 January 1969

• Spent a night in the bus once again. Feel like a bloody shuttle cock from the flat to the bus.

Monday 3 February 1969

• USA – CANADA

• CROSS BORDER INTO CANADA

Wednesday 19 February 1969

• First full day today in Victoria.  Cold night.  Everyone up early this morning.  Parked overnight outside Mayfair shopping centre. Twig does a radio show this morning and accidentally says that we were drunk when we conceived the idea. This was heard by Mr Worley who is promoting the Beautiful British Columbia. When Ron and Albert paid Mr Worley a visit he said that this kind of publicity was bad for British Columbia and said sorry but the deal cannot go through. So SEEWEO, the only successful failure, has lost 2,500$ for two weeks and a chance to go back to LA again. Twig does another radio show in the afternoon, sits down and the radio announcer introduces Twig as one of the Bus Boys and when Twig is about to say ‘Nice to be here’ the whole control box in front of him blows up. The radio station now out of commission for a couple of days.

Saturday 8 March 1969

• THUMB TO LA, TWIG, NANCY & MYSELF

• SMOKE THE PATROL MEN OUT

• Wake around 9.30.  Everyone up.  Parked at a typical neat rest area. Breakfast in a muddle. Must leave soon for San Francisco.  Trouble with rest area attendant.  Says we must move on for three reasons, one, parked dangerously, two, water from our sink and three, you can’t sleep in rest area.  As we still had to finish washing up, which nobody would do, we didn’t move, so he calls the CHP, who arrive promptly. Before he questions us he first reaches(?) into the back of his car for a long wooded truncheon he swings and walks towards us. At first he is very uptight but cools down. Then another patrol appears. We moved on ten minutes later and head for San Francisco, glorious sunshine, oh beautiful sunshine. Stopped once again. We are stopped by CHP. Interest again, so time wasted. Mobile again 7.5m (?) San Francisco. Stop not again at a trucking station. Showers. Hit San Fransisco.  Blue meanie as per.  Cross Oakland Bay Bridge. Dropped off on a ramp for San Jose. Say goodbye for the ..?.  Derek shouting from the back door ‘Don’t leave me with the blue meanie’. Twig, Nancy and myself begin to thumb, but no luck. What an awkward place to get a lift, so we walk to another ramp. Good job it’s sunshine. No luck. Walk again parallel with 101 until a bearded fellow picks us up and takes us to yet another ramp. Luck after standing in the cold, the sun down. It’s now half five, one and a half hours since left the bus. Fadallares(?) takes us to San Mato (?). Starting thumbing on freeway. Hope no CHP comes along. Nancy gets a lift for us. Negro driver and his child. Character. His seven year old child humming all the hit tunes ‘Sunshine on a cloudy day’, he knew all the words. Short lift. Stopped once again on freeway. Thumb two minutes. Turns out to be a trucker who saw the bus in San Jose last time. Buys us coffee then drops us off in what he reckons to be a good thumbing position, only trouble there was one person there already. Four thumbing is very difficult. Twig and Nancy told to thumb behind the sign, which had been defaced with messages like ‘Don’t hike here’ ‘I died here’ ‘Speed kills’. Decided to move from the ramp and headed in town. Got a lift which looked things up. Landed up in the centre of San Jose on a wrong ramp. Had to walk back towards the 101. Bought some apples with what money we had. Then found A(?) on ramp. Hadn’t thumbed for more than one minute and we got a lift, which took us well clear of the freeway at a service station and cafe. Well lighted. Took relays to go to the toilet. Soon got a lift from a Negro who took us into well just short of Saltinas. His driving was really erratic, speed one minute, slow the next, hunched over the wheel. What a place to be dropped off, nine miles from Saltinas, 318 approximately from Los Angeles. Miles from nowhere, under a bridge construction. Time 10.30pm. Freezing cold.  After standing, walking to and fro, jumping up and down, joking, flapping arms, muttering ‘315 miles LA, Karla, M.J.’,  jumping from the kerb to the road, leaping in front of cars, frozen thumbs silhouetted in car headlights, trying all variations of thumbs, 12 o clock saw us still under that damn bridge, even colder. Even Nancy had stopped giggling. 12.30 we decided to walk at least to Salinas nine miles away. Still walking, dark fields all around. Why do we thumb? Why did we leave the security of the bus? Then we both say ‘B.M. 1 o’clock no lift’. Then around 2 o’clock a pickup stops. A lift at last. No! He wanted Nancy. In return curses and swearwords from us. He drives off. We continue to walk. Just outside Salinas a car stops with four young Americans in it, somewhat drunk. They give us a lift into Salinas and then offer to take us to King City. But we change cars first. Driving as fast as possible and putting the fear of Christ up us, we arrive at King City. On the way one is sick, all over the near side of the car. We have to keep talking as they grooved on our English accent. In fact it was the bargain, a lift to King City if we talked. Stopped in King City by King City police. Try and stuff beer bottles under the seats. The two officers shaking, check out the driver who tries to cover the traces of sick. Then I am asked to step out to produce some kind of ID. My passport is sufficient. After I said I was reaching into my pocket for it, I couldn’t help noticing how shaky he was. Gun trouble. Drew Nancy out and checked her out. Then gave the driver a warning. He warned me about hitch hiking on freeways. After Twig mentioned his uncle was C. Chapman we couldn’t go wrong. They gave us a further lift to San Lucas nine miles away. In fact C.C. is second cousin by marriage. Dropped off at around three. At a cafe two rather drunk ‘A’ came in and offered us a lift to L.A., what luck (rabbit laugh). Apprehensive to accept (Nancy’s sake). They started to drive in this old car, all over the road. Offered to take over and then drove into the dawn towards Santa Barbara. One of the drivers fell asleep and the other just bull shitted all the way down. Twig and Nancy fell asleep. 285 miles. Dropped off Twig and Nancy at 06.30. Sun up now. Drive on coast road 101 then No 1 from Ventura. It was great to see the familiar coast road again, Santa Monica, Manhattan Beach. Tired and hungry pull up outside 20th Street 323 sun shining. Knock on that door. Barbara was up. Made me very welcome. Still tired. Visited Richard, John and Connie and then Cathy. Bad news Albert and Connie. Laugh over letter Ken wrote on Ron’s behalf to Cathy.

Sunday 9 March 1969

• REACH LA 8.45 WARM SUN.

Monday 10 March 1969

• Spend the night round Cathy’s on principle. M.J. arrived home around 19.00 and for a few seconds I was pleased to see her. But in the next minutes, when two negroes followed her in, things changed. She left in five minutes with her new friends, not to return that night. So on principle I didn’t stay around 323, even though Barbara said stay. That evening Brian phoned from San Francisco for Barbara. Derek piped in. He sounded really high. Decided that night to make my way back up. So soon. Cathy was really good. Left around 11.00. Back to pick up a number of things. M.J. wasn’t home, nor was B. Had to climb through the window. B arrived back and was surprised to see me. This morning M.J. came in around 11.45. The air was thick. She had said that evening she would explain but I couldn’t see what there was to explain, which made things even more difficult. Pro Bowl player and film star (enough to make one prejudiced). Didn’t say goodbye to Richard, John, Connie or Cathy, not that I could, they were all working as his shop wasn’t paying.  M.J. at least gave me a lift to Malibu.  Barbarella came along too. The air was really thick. Said goodbye to B. She said she would try and see Brian next week but with trouble with her car she may have to stay. So thumbing again. San Francisco here I come. Stood for 20 minutes. No luck. So I started to walk, thumbing as I went. Time to think as L.A.  M.B. slowly disappeared from me. I didn’t mind so much the trouble with M.J. I was only annoyed she had asked me to travel down. She had the opportunity to say please don’t come down.  It would have been much easier for all concerned. Mad was I. First lift was a Midget for a few miles. The driver tried to sell some grass.  Dropped off outside Malibu. After 30 minutes no lifts. I am joined by a hippy ‘Moses’. He introduces himself.  So easy going.  Waving to all the cars, peace signs etc ‘mother nature’s son’. Got a series of lifts.  2 in all.  Each one hippy cars.  One brand new VW saloon, one an old saloon crammed tight with hippies, little or no room for us. Still however small the lifts were, it helped. VW camper stopped and took us as far as Oxnard , just outside Number 1 Highway. What a place to be dropped. No lifts. Didn’t seem to bother Moses ‘Que sera, sera’ if a lift comes it comes. Instead he starts smelling leaves plants eucalyptus leaves and eating lemon nearby, professes the citrus juice shrinks your stomach. Thumbing here was impossible so I suggested we walked around Oxnard. Moses stopped to eat and kindly shared his food, eggs, celery, carrots and kippers. Another hippy car stopped which helped out us on R101.

Tuesday 11 March 1969

• DAY SPENT IN SANTA BARBARA

• Yet another rotten stop. Lousy on ramp. Looking back this morning with Twig in the girls’ flat in Santa Barbara, I wondered if I would make Santa Barbara. We must have stood there a full hour and once again the old story, if a lift comes, it comes. I offered him a cigarette. No thanks, I smoke nothing that injures my health. Yet he smoked grass, he admitted. A VW Camper flashed by as we stood and froze. I took little notice of it. Five minutes later it returned and the driver shouted ‘chip in a dollar I’m going to Santa Barbara’. Moses said ok and we climbed in warm and comfortable. Santa Barbara became a reality. The driver with a passenger, both our age, was trying desperately to get to Santa Barbara but was stone broke, not even sufficient for a telephone call. Reached Santa Barbara around 8 o’clock.  Said goodbye to Moses who was going to continue on with the other fellow. He had a tent and was heading for San Luis Obuspo (?). Now to find Twig, which turned out easy. 1815 Laguna. Phoned up. Was knocking on the door about nine. The driver, who I had already given three dimes for phone calls, eventually found his friend using Carla’s phone. Hope to spend the night at Carla’s but Twig had been kicked out and had to spend the night around another girl’s house, laugh. Twig was leading a double life, telling one this and the others that. So he had to prime me before we arrived at the house. Twig knocked and Chris opened the door in her dressing gown. Her face when she saw me was too much. I can imagine what she must have thought. Not another one. Slept like a log that night. Laura and Chris got up early in the morning and studied for a while before going to college. Denise stayed behind. Twig left early to see if he could get work clearing the oil slick. This was the excuse he made for coming down.  Denise drove me in her MG A up in the mountains. Santa Barbara is really a beautiful place. Majestic mountains snake like roads. Villas dotted on the mountainside, the town below, then the sea. The oil rigs and that thick carpet of oil on the sea. Should have left today but the area is so great. I have the impression Twig and I are just tolerated. I don’t know what impression the Bus Boys gave as I was in Manhattan Beach but it didn’t seem good from the girls. Went to college this evening. Afro American culture.

Wednesday 12 March 1969

• Up around 9.30. Sleepy eyed. Say goodbye to Laura, Chris and Denise as they go off to college. Must leave today with my sign ‘San Francisco or bus’t’. Don’t want to overstay my welcome. Had a great meal last night. Packed and leave. Cheers to Twig. Walk to centre of town. Great this warm weather. Palm trees gently blowing and swaying in the breeze. Make for Lower State Street. This is the best place for thumbing as the 101 Freeway goes straight through the town. No freeway restrictions here. Down on the 101 I have company. One hitch hiker In front and a group behind. Position myself more or less central, sign at the ready. Got at the pitch around 12.30, by 1.30 I had a lift. VW straight to San Francisco, thanks I am sure to the sign. My driver was Persian. At first I wasn’t sure of him. I had my suspicions he was a fag, American for queer. After he dropped me off I wasn’t completely sure. What a relief. Just to sit knowing within 6 hours without having to thumb again. Victor, I never caught his second name (Persian). We had something in common as he came from Tehran. Had been in the States for ten years. Talked about the bus in Tehran. He was generous. Shared his cigarettes (can’t say fags), chicken and apples. The miles just drifted past at speeds of 70 – 75 miles per hour, what a change from 38 miles per hour in ‘Britannia’. Talked about the rat race here, the Afro American problem, practically everything. He was a bit of a gourmet on the quiet and invited me to dinner down ‘China Town’. Passed that oh so familiar bridge we were under on Saturday, little laugh. Reached San Francisco around 19.00, then dinner down China Town. Forgot how to use chopsticks since Singapore, but got into the swing. Then Victor drove me to Brian’s pad 2330 48th Apartment 3. This was around 21.00 hours. Found Apartment 3 but no one was in. Considered climbing through the window. Recognised Brian’s VW Camper. No bus. Still outside at 22.00 until some neighbours invited me in. They had seen the bus. It’s then I am told the bus collided with a cable car on Monday. I just laughed. Thought it was a publicity stunt but apparently it wasn’t. At 24.00 still no bus so I bunked in through the kitchen. What a noise. Make a good cat burglar.   The Bus Boys and Brian arrived at 01.00. Could have picked the wrong place.

Thursday 13 March 1969

• ALBERT’S HEAD SHAVEN

• Back in the bus again.  A short lived vacation, laugh.  Use the bus for a vacation, now looking for a vacation from a vacation. Join Brian and we head for his lot ‘starving artist’. Work selling silk screen paintings. The artist knocks them out for 7.50$ then a middle man sells them. Brian tries to sell them ranging from 9.50 to 45$, depending on the person and painting. Moved from one lot to another. Brian’s sales talk was really good, could sell anything, even that nude dubbed M.J.’s arse. Spent the day sitting in Brain’s VW listening to the Doors, Buffalo Springfield, Quick Silver and Chamber Brothers ‘Time’. Real heavy, no paper weight stuff here in San Francisco. Read Lyn’s letter over and over. Phone Barbara up in Manhattan Beach but who should answer but M.J.   Surprise.   Barbara hopes to fly down, or up, tonight to San Francisco. What an advantage to fly.  Finish at 7 o’clock. During the day Brian sold what I’d call ‘Man’s Desolution’, a painting of a key hanging from a tree, the tree burnt and dead, a ruined building and man passing through an isolated door to a ‘Hell’s Angels’ motorcyclist. The fellow wanted to buy a shotgun but said he could buy it anytime and bought this original instead. He thought it was an original. As long as Brian keeps the other identicals tucked away he will be ok. If not they would wreck the place, including Brian.  Got high as we travelled home. Dropped into a radio and tape shop for a new record needle.  Had laugh. The fellow just didn’t know what to make of us. Got confused over Sony amplifier catalogue pickups. High didn’t help. Went back for a screw driver and the tall bearded fellow receded to a corner of the shop. Listened to Time stereo style. Home ‘Time’. Ken had cooked a really good meal, turkey roast spuds, boy it was good. Albert looked odd. Then I realised he had had his hair shaven again. It suits him. Decided to go to a happening in Haight Ashbury. Really good. Heavy music. Smoking. Quote ‘if you are holding pass it round you cock suckers ‘. Albert stood out, bald against the long haired gathering. Met Moses again, he had just arrived, 3 days Los Angeles to San Francisco. Blow our minds on the slides.

Friday 14 March 1969

• Up reasonably early. Quick muddle breakfast. Good to see Barbarella again. Seriously look at the damage we suffered with the cable car. The total damage was with the near side (UK) consisting of three damaged panels approximately half way up. The damage started on the second panel back. This first panel was cut, jagged and buckled. The second two were just scored, tapering off on the third. Two beading buckled plus the centre support rib between our battery hatches. All the paint badly scratched. The cable car was derailed and its near side running board shattered. Ironwork twisted. The accident happened at the junction of Powell and Bush. It was Skip’s fault in some respects. Pulling out from a parked car going uphill, the bus was doing approximately 5 miles per hour. Having had to stop at traffic lights at the junction, the cable car be(?) alongside at the lights. It took a San Francisco cable car breakdown vehicle to free us, pushing the car backwards. Now as we travel round San Francisco everyone just scatters, keeping well clear. Cars, lorries etc, cable cars, have the greatest respect for us. Some shout ‘bully’. I think the bus came off best. Drive into town, check mail. Met Santa Claus and P… night. Drive around. Get an estimate for the damage. Doing so, Skip driving, we nearly had another accident, cutting across a set of traffic lights. Nearly had another scar on the near side. Estimates, two, ranged from 640$ to 4(?).

Monday 24 March 1969

• NEGRO ‘MISS’ HITCH HIKER

• Windy day this morning, cold but sunshine. Breakfast over, parked outside a supermarket. Make our way to Mint Hotel, downtown, only to find the procession had started. We met them Ford Bronco, Bug, VW converts, as they swung across our path heading for the desert (Sahara Gun Club). As we followed five minutes behind we noted already a couple of breakdowns (punctures, mech). Ken still in a mood. Wouldn’t go to bed last night as he had problems. Bleed his heart to Nancy, saying we should all change, why should he (B M). Left the road for the gun club right.  Reached the club after overtaking a long stream of traffic. Route from the Mint up Fremont Street, right North Main Street, left West Bonanza Road, right Reno-Tonopah Highway. Passed North Las Vegas air terminal. Pass our security guard we knew at the Home Show and into the pits. The race started at 12 o’clock. Eight laps of forty miles, then a following eight laps on Tuesday. One interesting entry was a Citroen, wheel base too long. 12 o’clock start saw four cars, a lot of dust, taking a right bend.  Four cars every one minute start. Problems. The cycles may complete the course in under the hour and would filter into some of the tail ends who were waiting to start. The dust became too much. Incidentally one car, or bug, broke down 100 yards from the start, 2.5$ a yard. Expensive. Left around three. Checked GPO. Left forwarding address Houston, Albuquerque. Collected a parcel from Millie and Doug. Ken drives out of Las Vegas efficiently. On the Bouldey Highway towards Hoover Dam R 93.95 466. Stop at the Dam cross over the Colorado River, Lake Mead left Lake Mohave. Decided to visit the Grand Canyon. Crossed into Arizona and put our clocks on one hour. Pick up a Negro hitch hiker. Travel R 93 to Kingham. Stopped for a meal.  Feed our guest. Check before Kingham, road tax and fruit. Check 6.95$ tax, road tax not included with fuel as in Nevada and California Route 66. Ken efficiently with Ron’s sailor hat, humming as he bus(?) cleans the windows. Set off again, Ken driving once more. What’s come over him.  Drive on Route 66 heading for Flagstaff. Go to bed (our guest refused the liver, not surprising, Twig had only half cooked it) laugh. Ken finished driving around 03.00 hours. (6.95 tax).

• Note state tax at border for Arizona federal tax on top of diesel price.. California Nevada Oregon Washington State federal tax on top with fuel.

Tuesday 25 March 1969

• GRAND CANYON. FURST PUNCTURE IN USA.

• Up around 9.00. Woke around 0600 hours looked out through my small slit of a window to see snow after the sun in Vegas. Just shivered and pulled the blankets closer. Back to sleep till 0900. Noticed the front seat creaking. Our guest was sleeping there. Up. Cold. Fished all our jumpers out. Thought we would never have to use them for a while. We had parked in a petrol station just outside Williams. Our guest left making for Flagstaff. She had gone to California to get married but it hadn’t worked out, so she was making her way back home, south of Albuquerque, Las Cruces. We hoped she got there safely. Breakfast quickly over, Skip noticed we had a slow puncture, our first in the States and our first since Mexico. Offside outside rear.

Friday 28 March 1969

• WINROCK

Saturday 29 March 1969

• WINROCK

• Indian names (Woodrow Tiger)

• Ron (Twig) Cheen-Dei (Lets or chance)

• Derek Chunba (Me and you) Rob Stu-Cha (rock).

Sunday 30 March 1969

• No promotions today. Day of rest.  The sun is so very hot today. Laze around on the edge of the Winrock shopping centre. Wait for Mary and Bex (Rusty) Nail to take us swimming. The heat is so very dry 7% humidity. Reminds me of our early days in Kuwait. 12 o’clock and still no girls. 12.30 and they arrive, so at last we go swimming. Good for two reasons, one we are so bloody hot, and two just to get away from people. Even today we have had our serenity broken already. Not that we get much privacy. Mary takes us to an army base. Rusty can’t come. But before we set off Nancy hadn’t got a cap and Derek a costume, so we have to drive the bus to Mary’s folks’ place, where we are duly invited in for cokes etc. More talk about the bus. Have to be sociable. Twig drools over their E type and Skip the TD. Mary’s mother is ok but so typical of American women, bossy and harsh. The ritual over, we set out for the pool. The looks we got from the armed services. Short haircuts no sideburns regiment. Us Mo’s sideburns long hair and a suntan. Jealousy of freedom. Even the temperature of 79o and a heated semi indoor pool it was cold. Twig dives off the springboard, much to the joy of two fourteen year old girls. Twig made a muck of the dive and both girls said ‘I thought I was bad’. I remember Skip saying this morning ‘I feel like doing something dare devilish today’. Just as he dived heroically from the top board what a dive, straight over on his back. He didn’t try again. So much for the day’s heroics. I had trouble once again with my hair. A source of amusement with Skip, Derek and Ken. Mary’s mother had invited us back for a barbecue dinner so we left.  Derek and Ken have yet another slanging match. Ken retires upstairs with Loophole. Reluctance to go indoors once we got back to Mary’s place. Photographs outside of us etc and bus. Polaroids etc.  After the barbecue, which was eaten in comparative silence, I believe they got the message, we wanted to relax and soon we started to enjoy ourselves and not many questions were asked. Watched colour television Shane (?) and ‘Rio Bravo’. Criticising all the Westerns we see now after travelling through Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico etc.

April 1969

• SANTA FE SUPERSAVE 10.30 -16.30 6 hours. 36$

• SANTA FE SUPERSAVE 11.00 – 17.30. 6 1/2 hours. 20$.

Wednesday 4 June 1969

• TWENTY FIFTH ANNIVERSARY 1969

• Tonight we have been invited to the Pin Oak horse show for charity (the benefit of the Texas Children’s Hospital). We had a box seat (271 box) and it started at 7.30pm. The tickets were expensive 3$ parking included, and we needed it with the bus.

Additional entry by Ken Wilkinson